Now see what you guys did [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]

 

Now see what you guys did [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]

 

It has to be rated API service SG and JASO MA . These are for wet clutch bikes. Unless you can find one rated like these you shouldn't use it. None of the automotive oils(that I could find) (edit) are rated API SG or JASO MA. They took out the additives to control pollution in street autos. Your quad still needs them.

Hondas own HP4 is no longer rated SG. Thats why I use mobil 1 MX4T 10-40

You can read about it at the link I posted.

 

Can you tell us what is needed to pass or qualify for an API service rating of SG and JASO MA ?

 

Can you tell us what is needed to pass or qualify for an API service rating of SG and JASO MA ?

 

Also I know I may have not been any help in stopping your thread from getting of the original subject and do appologize for that, but it just seems to happen so often on lube related threads due to all the confusion surrounding the subject.

The only way I know of to get Mobil products at discounted prices beyond a retailer close out is to directly contact a true Mobil distributor and purchase in bulk. It may be as little as a 120lb/30g drum or as large an amount as they seem to want to sell, but you have to find the people who deal directly with Mobil and not the hundreds of their customers who claim to be direct distributors.

I have resold mobil oils and greases in the past, and more recently sold against them and the one thing I am sure of is that they dont give away their higher end products. It doesnt mean there any better than whatever but just that they have decided that certain products in the line are "special" and dont warrant the same large discounts offered on other products etc.

In small quantity I think your pretty much paying within a dollar or so of the lower prices you may find, and since you seem bent on using that one product as its the only thing you would run in your bikes it may be cost effective to just continue buying by the case.

 

440 ex read here about sg and jaso ma

http://www.thumperfaq.com/oil.htm
Motor oil

Here is a cut and paste


Q: IS AUTOMOTIVE MOTOR OIL BAD FOR A MOTORCYCLE?

A: Not bad, but probably not the best. Why not? It is designed in reverse order to a motorcycle oil. The priority hierarchy of automotive motor oil is: (1) Maximize fuel economy. (2) Reduce emissions. (3) Offer protection for the moving parts. Today's automotive motor oils do not have the same degree of extreme pressure and anti-wear agents that they did just a decade ago.
Q: WHEN WAS AUTOMOTIVE OIL AT ITS BEST?

A: Oil changed ten years ago when automakers were pressured to clean up the air. Since 1993, the entire automotive industry has worked to reduce exhaust emissions. Automotive motor oil must adhere to the performance categories set by the American Petroleum Institute (API). These are called the API Service Categories. The API categories have been around for 50 years, but for the first 35, the categories were upgraded six times to meet the demand for higher engine performance.

The current American Petroleum Institute (API) designation is SL. The API SL oils are designed to provide better high temperature deposit control and lower oil consumption. SL oils are missing important agents that improve extreme use lubrication. In their place are friction modifiers that improve fuel economy.
Q: WILL AUTOMOTIVE MOTOR OIL HURT MY BIKE?

A: It could. If you're using an automotive motor oil in your racing four-stroke, you're not buying the best protection. An API SL oil is missing vital anti-wear components: the most common being zinc, phosphorus and sulfur. These agents are harmful to the catalyst that is used to diminish the level of pollutants in automobile exhaust.
Q: WILL AUTOMOTIVE OIL HURT MY CLUTCH?

A: Yes. The friction modifiers in motor oil improve fuel economy by making it easier for the gears, bearings, pistons and rings to slip, slide and turn inside the engine. Unfortunately, these friction-minimizing agents also make it easier for the clutch in a motorcycle to slip. If you are using automotive motor oil in your bike, apart from CRFs, you are losing hook-up and acceleration, as well as reducing the life of the clutch.
Q: WHY SHOULD I MEMORIZE THE ACRONYM "JASO"?

A: As soon as it became apparent that the American government was mandating economy over protection, the Japanese Automotive Standards Organization (JASO) developed a standard specifically for performance fourstroke motorcycles. JASO designates two different four-stroke oil classifications: MA and MB. The MB oil is low friction and the MA is sans the friction enhancers.
Q: WHY ARE MOTORCYCLE SPECIFIC OILS BETTER?

A: Motorcycle specific oils are pumped up with five times the anti-wear, anti-scuff and extreme pressure additives of regular motor oil. As an added plus, motorcycle oil does not include molybdenum disulfide and other friction modifiers that wreak havoc on clutch performance.

Maxima, a popular motorcycle oil supplier, starts with an API SG Service Category base oil, the last formulation that wasn't regulated as to the amount of zinc-dialkyldithiophosphate (zinc, phosphorus and sulfur) it could contain. Maxima then boosts protection through a proprietary mix of performance additives. The end result is a motorcycle oil that doesn't break down under extreme heat and is tough enough to cushion meshing gears.
Q: WHICH FOUR-STROKE RACING OIL SHOULD I USE?

A: If the bottle of oil doesn't list that it is an API SG Service Category or JASO MA spec, it's not good enough for your motocross bike. Although a bottle of oil might say "motorcycle specific" or "safe in wet clutches," the best endorsement is the API SG or JASO MA designation. It's better to be safe than sorry.

 

Razor-Not quite sure what you meant by, "I didn't need a sells pitch from amsoil". I don't think anybody mentioned Amsoil at all before that??? Its base oil is a PAO and virtually identical to Mobil 1. Personally I would never buy Amsoil because of their weird marketing practices.

 

Standard Mobil 1 dino automotive oil meets this requirement. I have used it beifre for this reason. I forget if the weight was 10w-30 or 10w-40 or both may have the designation.
I have tried them all from standard auto oil to $12 per quart for Maxima products. I have ran Maxima oil in the past in my Raptor, riding hard, and stepped off the atv and held my hand on the head (I kid you not). Without a doubt, Maxima products are head and shoulders above the rest. If it was'nt so inconveniant getting my hands on it, I would definately run it exclusively.

 

Have you actually tried MX4T and compared it to Maxima? I'm not talking about mobil auto oil I'm talking about motorcycle oil that is 9.99 a quart!