http://www.onoffroad.com/Merchant2/m...CLE-LUBRICANTS

Maxima Extra is $6.75 and Ultra is 7.25. $10 for me to ship a case of 12. I use Extra in the utes and kids bikes, and Ultra in the 400's and 450.

 

thanks for the link i may try the maxima out

 

I use Amsoil 10W40............4 cycle oil and The local Honda shop sells it for $5.98 a Qt.
When u start using all these top of the line oils, how much difference can it be, not much!

 

I don't know but everyone swears by the mobil 1 mx4t around here.

The cost isn't that bad. My bike holds 1.4 quarts. I can do 2 oil changes for $30 bucks and have a little oil left for lubeing things. This oil runs clean a LONG time so I only change it about 2 times a year if that.

What I do is I drain out the oil then I refill it with cheap oil and run the engine a bit. Make sure you go through all the gears. Then I drain the cheap oil hot and refill it with the mx4t. You would be amazed how much longer the oil will stay clean and how much old oil comes out with the cheap stuff!

I do this in my cars too. except I just run themobil 1 10 40 auto oil in them

 

Hey appreciate the effort, but what I was after was if anyone knew the actuall requirements of meeting the various ratings.

I know a lot of this is confusing and diffilcult to decifer intentionally, but I also know the more we all can learn about the "real truth" on those confusing areas the better off we will be in understanding just what were getting into no matter if your running $12 qt super whatever or $1.98 econo brands.

Not to trash thumper because I think its a good site, but when it comes to oils and performance I am needing to satisfy my need to "show me" and just being told whats right and wrong on such a confusing and misunderstood subject isnt going to settle my curiosity.

 

That re installing cheap stuff and then draining is interesting and something similar to what I used to do with some of my boats.

I had a couple of cars that all I would do is run the Mobil1 and change the oil filter every 5K miles. It worked very well and I had no problems at all with changing the oil every 30K miles. I am actually running something different that is a full synthetic with a supposedly special ultre fine moly disulfide and a climbing additive (cling x3) in a 4.3L v6 Chevy with approx 25K miles on it and only filter changes. This stuff is actually pretty interesting as it cooled the temps, stopped the leaks, and even caused a cheapo Jasper rebuild not to burn any oil at all.

I got this as samples but the funny thing is it retailed for over $14 per qt, so go figure.

I think with your situation as you describe it with only changing the oil twice per year and purging out the oil (not sure what I think on this one yet, as now your leaving a small amount of "cheap oil" behind) etc you should just use whatever quality synthetic you prefer, but it still cant hurt to know what else is avail or what the real differences are between them.

As far as I am concerned I am goning to watch this for a while to see what new info comes out etc as i have a bunch of work to get done on the quad before the next ride including an oil change so I will be a little busy lol [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

More reading for those who wish to be well informed:

I have talked to this author. He is a high mileage street biker who is more interested in ECONOMY than some other aspects. Personally, I won't touch an oil that isn't API SG/JASO MA (several of these oils are, and several are not). I prefer to stay away from any "car oils" (none of which are API SG/JASO MA). He has made no attempt to make an all inclusive list. For example some blenders like Maxima and Redline were left out presumably because of economy considerations (yet he incluses the very high priced Mobil 1). Remember that your dirt bike is WAY HARDER on its oil than any street bike that is just cruising down the freeway!-
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html#Oil
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Consumables.html#Oil

I am partial to the ester synthetics. So, I run Maxima in my bikes and Redline in my street vehicles. (I have at times also run Mobil 1, Amsoil, and Rotella T in my street vehicles.)-
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/redtech1.htm
http://www.grmotorsports.com/oiltech.html
http://www.scooterhelp.com/genmainta...kcase.oil.html

You can come up with a nauseating number of Amsoil (PAO synthetic) web sites. They have obviously attempted to bombarded the internet with their advertising! Basically, Amsoil and Mobil 1 are very similar.

 

You want to look up the technical data for any oils you may be considering! I pay particular attention to these:

Vis @ 100 degreesC, cSt- This is the viscosity of your oil when it is HOT. This is THE value upon which the various SAE grades are based (30, 40, 50, etc.).

Vis @ 40 degreesC, cSt- This is the viscosity of your oil when it is COLD, ie. how easily it will flow at startup.

Viscosity Index- This is how much the viscosity will (or will not) change when the oil is heated.

HTHS Vis, cP @ 150 degrees C- This is maybe the MOST IMPORTANT NUMBER! It is HIGH TEMPERATURE HIGH SHEAR, and represents the actual load your oil is capable of withstanding in the bearings, cam, and on the cylinder walls. Notice that the ester synthetics are WAY HIGHER than any other oils in this respect..........precisely why I prefer them!

----&gt; <U>The best oil is one that can combines a HIGH HTHS, with a LOW VISCOSITY!</U> &lt;---- The low viscosity will give you better performance because it will not bog your crank and it pumps more freely, yet the high HTHS will still give you solid protection. (In the old days, all you could do to increase the HTHS of an oil was to increase the viscosity.)

A good example of oil technical data:
http://www.redlineoil.com/pdf/4.pdf Notice the very high HTHS valuses for these ester synthetics, and compare that to your wimpy petroleum oils!

 

I found a case of MXT4 at an auto zone about 30 miles away. It seems they no longer carry it or the red cap 15-50 anywhere. I just lucked up and found the last case they had. $7.99 a quart.