Mobil 1 MX4T
I need a cheap place to get this oil it's $9.99 a quart here! Can anyone help me out?

It's the only thing I would run in my bikes.

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...cycle_Oils.asp

 

All the sythetics are more expensive, but this oil is priced way higher than it ought to be. PAO synthetics just aren't that expensive to produce. I think Mobil doesn't sell much of it compared to car oils, so they try to make up for it with a high price.

Personally, I recommend Maxima ester synthetics, which aren't exactly cheap either. They have all the advantages of a PAO, and more besides! Esters cling to the metal surface, where a PAO just slides right off. Thus the ester gives you protection at startup that a PAO can't. http://www.maximausa.com/technical/l...beNews2002.pdf

 

Good points but with the right additive package the pao (which I believe to be superior to the esters) synthetics can not only cling, but also climb and pretty much whatever else the chemist designing it wants it to.

I may not be the expert on this stuff (thank god I didnt waste any more brain cells learning more than I did LOL) but I have learned a lot from both using it and even selling and recomending lubes in the past. I personally just ran out of a special synthetic made by a small mfg and am switching back to mobil1 (not the mx4 sorry its just too much $$$) and its looking like red cap again, or whatever there replacing it with (I believe its a 5-40 non energy conserving) as I have had good success with this in the past.

Since it seems you do know some about these products would you be able to advise what difference there is between the two mobil products?

 

I would not use anything that is not a motorcycle specific API SG/JASO MA oil. http://www.thumperfaq.com/oil.htm A lot of car oils are scary, and none of them are API SG. I wouldn't even run most of them in my car, much less in my 450R that will do 9,000 rpm!

RAZOR-If you only have one bike, just bite the bullet and pay the price. I'm the one that's dying here.........I have to keep 9 bikes in oil!

 

I use to be able to get it at Autozone around here for $8.99 a qt.
I stopped using it in my 400EX cause it would cause my clutch to slip but mainly while I was powershifting while drag racing.

 

I actually agree with your thinking until you just group all auto or "non motorcycle specific" oils together.

Being well aware that there are serious differences between various oils I can understand why there is so much concern, and being that the specialty mfg's and some of the majors have used what could be called scare tactics to convince us to pay double, triple or more for their oils makes the almost hysteria that some have on this subject understandable as well.

If you look at the oil I plan to start using again (Mobil1 redcap replacement or similar) it meets the spec's in your link, and does not have the additional friction modifiers or additives that would give it an "energy conserving" rating.

When you look at the cost differences and compare the info avail to us this stuff seems to cover all of the bases, and at $22 for a 5qt container v/s $9qt for a similar product from the same people its going to get the attention of more than just one person.

In the past I had looked into the various motorcycle specific oils and saw that I would have to pay more for a petroleum based or blended oil than what the Mobil1 was going for, and considerable more for the full 100% synthetics. I dont know about anyone else but I prefer to run full 100% synthetic product over the specific use petroleums any day.

Now when I originally started using synthetic in the atv engine I didnt have as tough a decision as those who are reading this may have since I didnt have any info accurate or not on why the same oils I had been using for years with excelent results in all my autos and boats could be a problem.

I guess by chance I chose to run the offering without the energy conserving additives etc due to concerns with the wet clutch and how adding additional friction modifiers to the already superior lubricity of most synthetics could be a concern, but in the 3 or so years I have this quad all the time it has run on synthetic (previous owner used hp4) and mostly mobil1 red cap, and when you consider its a big bore, running a true 12.65:1 that is only air cooled and runs pretty damn hot (slightly cooler on syn though) without any issues this oil cant be all that bad.

I have not tested this since the end of last season, but a mechanical compression test still shows the same as it did after the latest piston was installed.

Maybe if someone can provide documented analysis that specificly show where problems coming from and explain in detail what and how a different oil would correct it etc I would accept that there is a reason to stop paying $4.40 a qt, and start spending $9 or more per qt.

And for those who care I actually had an oil analysis done on the previous Mobil1 redcap (its a 15-50 btw) that I was running before switching to the "specialty" stuff I am out of and the only concerning part of it was that there were some contaminents from the rebuild (honda bond remains lol), and trace elements of normal clutch wear (not bad for a 4-5yr old stk clutch). I plan on having the same tests done on this product as well, and I will post the results if the thread is still active.

Sorry if it was a little long but I wanted to try and explain why I think the way I do, and not make it look like I am telling anyone what they should do or look like an arrogant SOB etc. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

That "additive package" in your PAO oil, is likely to contain a dose of an ester synthetic (clings to parts and is great at keeping the engine clean), plus some stuff like zinc, etc. But manufacturers don't publish many specifics on what their additive packages exactly are, so we are unfortunately left to guess at the composition. They can't give you a larger amount ester synthetic, because that would make their oil even more expensive. Personally, I just prefer to run the 100% ester, and leave the PAO out completely. Also, Mobil 1 contains a hefty dose of petroleum oil which is necessary to dissolve some of the additives, so they have to qualify their statemant when they call it "fully synthetic".

The thing about automotive oils (definitely never ever run one that is "energy conserving"), is that they have not been API SG for some time now. http://www.thumperfaq.com/oil.htm The SG oils contain zinc, which provides last resort protection for very high heat/pressure areas like cam lobes and cylinder walls. Can't run zinc in your car because it will ruin your catylitic converter. So why not just skip these and get a motorcycle specific oil???

One thing that puzzles me is that Honda oils and Yamalube have quietly gone from SG to SJ in the last year or so! So, I am uncertain what the additive packages on these oils now are??? (Just try to call Honda or Yamaha and get any technical data on their oils.............) I have no idea what I will get with these products, so I just boycot them seeing there are so many other choices available that are SG.

Most people only own one bike, so I can't see what the fuss is about buying an expensive, very high quality oil. Most people don't change oil more than once or twice a year (even more reason to run an good quality synthetic!), so the amount you save by going cheap is little more than the price of a couple of beers.

 

I dont know all th ein's and out's about oil and such but I trust the Mobil 1. I get it at autozone for $7.99. What sold me was remember the comerical from years ago when they took a hot cast iorn skillet and poured regular oil on it and it started to boil then they poured Mobil 1 and nothing happened. I have been running MX4T in all 3 of my ATV's and am happy to say nothing but good things!

 

I didn't need a sells pitch from amsoil. Mx4t has ester sythetic in it and it has zinc. Amsoil does not have zinc. I can get the amsoil for about $5.50 a quart but I would rather spend the cash and get the good stuff. I have run the red cap stuff and it is good but it has none of the addittives for a motorcycle engine.
As far as I'm concerned there is no other oil to run in a quad but Mobil 1 Mx4t. My local autozone quit selling it and now I have to special order it buy the case from a quad dealer.


All I was asking for was a cheap place to buy it. If you have any good websites that are honest and cheap please let me know.

 

Does anyone know what kind of synthetic oil I can use on my Honda 2005 Foreman S? Can I buy the filter and oil at a local auto store, such as Checker Auto or Autozone (or is it motorcycle shop specific)? Thanks.