sorry dzzy, but now I disagree

I always gapped my BR9ECS on my SRX700. If the gap wasn't on the high side with the originally equipped 10s, you'd foul them often - very expensive! Never broke one ground electrode.

Of course, I didn't wedge a screwdriver between the center and ground electrodes.

You gap these plugs, and I'm not making it up

from NGK's tuning recommendations:

<u>Gap Settings</u>

A spark plugs’ tip temperature and the voltage necessary to fire the plug are directly affected by the gap setting. Most manufacturers set the gap from the factory for that plugs most popular application. Unfortunately, that plug may have hundreds of applications from automobiles to golf carts. Setting the gap for your particular engine is important as insufficient spark plug gap can cause pre-ignition, detonation and even engine damage. Whereas too much gap can result in a higher rate of misfires, loss of power, plug fouling and poor fuel economy. Even if the preset gap is supposed to match your motor, it is always best to physically check that the gap is adjusted properly for your motor prior to installation.

For modified motors, proper gapping is essential; gap settings are affected by increased compression, fuel type, turbos, nitrous and high output ignition system. Most experienced tuners know that opening the gap up to present a larger spark to the air/fuel mixture maximizes burn efficiency, however, after they have raised compression and installed a turbo, they have to lower the gap (to ensure ignitability in the denser air/fuel mixtures). It is for this reason that most racers add high power ignition systems. The added power allows them to reopen the gap without misfire.

<u>Proper Gapping</u>

In most cases the factory set gap should conform to your vehicle specifications. However if it is necessary to widen the gap, do so with a tool that only pulls back on the ground electrode without touching the center electrode or the porcelain. To close the gap on a plug, gently tap the plug, electrode first on a hard surface.

 

The directions you list are valid, but I don't think they're up to date for these newer plugs. Of course it's been traditional to "gap" spark plugs, but times and materials change, and sometimes it takes "tuning information" awhile to catch up. I personally haven't seen elecrodes broken. I have seen published information from BRP that prompts me to post. Also, when BRP started using these "C" plugs a couple years ago, I was told personally by BRP tech services, that they had been having a bit of problem with electrodes breaking due to gapping, and was specifically warned against doing so. I was told the material used in the electrode is far more brittle than the standard spark plugs. Matter of fact, now there's about three or four different "C" series plugs with numbers after the "S" to indicate different gaps. The difference between these plugs is only a few .001's ". Why go to that trouble if it's OK to "home" adjust the gap? You've gotten by with it...but it's not recommended, at least by BRP tech services, and that's good enough for me.

 

These plugs have been around for nearly 10 years. I would hope the gapping procedure is up to date.

If not, bring your feeler gage to the parts store and don't mail order plugs? I agree he could fatigue the electrode by bending it to a gap of .085" and back, or repeatedly bending the ground, but a careful and fine adjustment? It's done all the time. Most nickel alloys I'm (sort of) familiar with are malleable, which is part of why its used on the leading edge of composite propeller blades - to absorb impacts from rocks and such.

I can understand Bombardier's concern, this talks about a special application plug for the Ski-Doo.

This spark plug has a special low angle ground electrode designed to withstand detonation, vibration and pre-ignition. The spark plug use a thick low angle ground, that is preset at the factory. You can't slip a gauge into this area due to the fact the center electrode is lower then the outer shell. The gauge will read incorrectly. In addition to this you can fatigue the nickel alloy causing ground failure. You must purchase the correct spark plug for the application.

If your application requires a gap of .030 to .032 then use stock number 3570. If you require the small gap of .018 " use stock number 6669.

NGK Spark Plugs produces spark plugs for Ski Doo. Ski Doo dictates to us what they need and we produce it for them. The reason this spark plug cost more then the BR9ES is for the following reasons.

1. Low Sales volumes
2. Special Design

I do think it is smart to throw a plug away that was gapped to .085"

 

..That particular plug was given back to the dealer I bought it from. I am not one to risk a $7000 machine over a $12 spark plug. I called the nearest Honda dealer and he has the plugs in stock, both the standard and the hotter one for cold weather. Its quite a drive but I will be traveling there tomorrow to pick them up. The Rubicon owners manual I got with the machines indicated that all you do is CHECK the gap. It indicates that if a .040" wire gauge passes through the opening you should REPLACE the plug. The manual specificallystates the checking should never be done with a standard flat blade feeler gauge. I am sure that part of that is because they want to sell spark plugs but it may be to keep folks from screwing up. When I called the dealership to make sure they had the plugs I asked him to check 2 or 3. He indicated that on all he checked .035" would pass through the gap, .036" would not. He also indicated that on the plugs with the "iridium coated" wire he never re-gaps them but did not say why. How about that? IRIDIUM coated, whooda thot it?? This machine uses the IJR7A9 or below 41'F they suggest the IJR6A9. Most of the riding in this area is 40' or below except for August and September. Other months, May, June, July, etc might end up at 70 or above but more often than not start out in the low 30's. I could probably run the hot plug year around with no problem.........Tass [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]





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I found the following instructions:

<u>Installation Instructions</u>
The iridium center electrode is very thin. Unlike a conventional plug, you cannot gap the plug by sandwiching a gap tool between the electrode and the ground strap, then pushing on the ground strap. The hard electrode will dig into the gap tool, and when you remove the gap tool, you'll break the electrode. Instead, adjust the ground strap by tapping it on a hard surface, or by pulling it gently with a tool; then measure the gap using your gap tool.

 

Tass............PM's you a question about the extension for the primer.

 

If a plug with a gap of .035" was installed, later the gap was re-cheched, and it was at .040", then yes, the plug SHOULD be replaced. This is wwider gap is due to the deterioration of the center electrode. If it has burnt down that far, the plug won't perform as it was designed.

I see no problem using a wire gage and adjusting a new plug to the desired specs..

 

[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] RTRUBI You have a response in your PM. TASS