I disagree with you. What you say about a car transmission ins't neccesarily true either, mine is a 5 speed and uses automatic transmission fluid, no thicker than regular oil.

Back to the subject though. Regular car oil has always worked just fine in mine, and my friends quads. We put hours and hours of hard riding on them during the middle of summer, and again in the middle of winter. Never a problem from it, not anything that justifies 8 dollars a quart. We do work on a lot of quad and bike motors, and I have seen an XR100 head, along with many others, that have been run on regular motor oil and not seen a difference from one that was run on synthetic quad specific oils.

I'm glad that your group of mechanics can tell a big difference between motors run on synthetic and regular oils, even when there really isn't much of a difference when you pull a motor apart. The only time to tell a noticeable difference is when the motor has been run way to hot, then the amount of glazing is different. I can't see the big difference in Quad oils, and Car oils, probably because there isn't one, it all has to be changed often because of the load being put on a single cylinder engine, that will kill any oil quicker than normal.

 

What ? Thats what Im talkin about d'uh.I said A tranny needs a different oil then an engine.and you said your self that your manual tranny uses an atf.An atf is not a motor oil,its a high detergent lube that will not break down for thousands of miles.you cant even compare engine oils to atf ATF are much lighter and have a higher, low temp flow then oil.If it makes no difference go drian your tranny and dump in a couple liters of 10w30,an we will see how long it lasts,from what you say it will be fine forever.Wrong motor oils do not expand like atfs do or do the have the cleaning abilitys.your tranny will have a short life.
Did you ever take the time to find out what kind of oil comes in your bike when you buy then,Honda line oil is made by Kendal ,Honda does not make all the money off the oil. so why void a warrenty because of the wrong oil,and why is it we can test the oil to see what kind you have been using then wright up the papers to void the warrenty.
because you know so much about bikes you should know that the #1 problem with the XR 80-100 is the cams and bearing right and what it the cause of the wear?.a lack of lubricatin.what is the case of the lack of lube? the wrong oil.the oil pumps work fine but regular car oils will break down much faster and as they start to break down the start to loose there oiling properties.
If car oils are so great why are all the major oil companys like mobil,Castol, making Motorcycle oils. A motorcycle oil is designed to withstand higher heat,more stress and lessbreakdown,better yet talk to a Mobil rep and he can tell you why. and one last thing why dont you go to a local track and talk to some serious racers and ask them why they dont run 10w30 for a gearbox lube.
synthetic oils are the best on the planet for top protection, would you run a regular 10w30 in a twincam 16v turbocharged ported (14g runnin at 15psi) 4cylinder runnin 7000rpm and puttin down over 250hp ,not unless your stupid.the funny thing is thats the same engine thats in a stock Eagle talon tsi
hey instead of blabin about somthing you know nothing about may I sugest you read the following,and while your there click on thr major oil manufactors at the bottom and read up on the importance of a proper motorcycle oil

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/2...oil_bible.html

 

Blah Blah Blah Yack Yack Yack. Talk to much.

I was just making the point with the tranny not needing a thicker oil. Mine gets all it needs from the ATF.

Anyway, you can go ahead and spend $8 a quart for oil, and I'll spend half that and it will work just as good as anything else on the market. I'm not worried with the guys at the race track, I know their beef, I'm talking about the everyday normal rider who doesn't beat their quads to death to get somewhere. I myself run redline full synthetic in my car because its gets driven as a daily driver, I run it hard, and through many different conditions so I need better protection with it. My quad just gets regular ol semi-synthetic oil, I don't ride it hard, I take long leisurely trips, don't do much work with it, just average joe rides that don't know need 8 dollar a quart oil. If I raced it'd be different.

Just don't get all pissy and jump down my throat like I'm an idiot or something. I've had the same problems with bike motors that you mention, but its not because of the oil they use, but because they don't change oil except once a year. It wasn't the oils fault it didn't get changed.

 

Full synthetic oils offer the best lubrication, I beleive. But on my high power rig they are too good. Honda synthetic oil (HP4) makes my clutch slip at high RPM's because it is too slippery or possibly becasue it contains moly. Now I run GN4 and I havn't had any problems. It may sound silly but the synthetic oil actually made my clutch slip and my Honda dealer agreed and he said he had heard of that problem(premature clutch wear using synthetic oils) GN4 isn't that expensive, I think 2 dollars a quart. It works very well and won;t void my warranty, I think it's fine.

 

Thats funny, all that i run in my (16g)300 hp Talon is regular 10w-30 oil. 81,000 miles and i've never had a motor problem, but then again, the 4g63 motor is bulletproof.

 

When using synthetic you should check with the manufacturer to see what friction modifiers are used and if it will affect your clutch. Definitely not all oils are equal. The $20 bucks I spend on an oil change seems to me to be money in the bank. Check run temps on synthetic-vs-conventional oil, there is a difference. A cooler engine WILL LAST LONGER. I spent the bucks to buy my 400EX, I will continue to spend $20 for an oil change. To me it is worth it.
Exer
P.S. The filter is included in the $20

 

your right the 2l mitsu engine is bullet proof.the 16g turbo is a much better turbo for sure! the #1 problem with the 14g and regular oil is the the thin crude oils dont stand up like the synthetics the oil would cook in the turbos and cause premature wear.now you got a car that puffs blue smoke a WOT.I have a 91 tsi and a 91N/T in my yard right now the tsi has 160km and needs a new bottom end and turbo lady drivin (7psi of boost)oil changed every 5000km,always ran castrol gtx10w30 and my N/T is modified has like 250,000 km and has only run synthetics Mobil 1 since new compression on the N/T is 165-170 thats perfect for 250,000k.your car will run much better/cooler with synthetic oil and GM synthetic tranny lube and the steel washer will get rid of any grear grinding
if you remeber the 1g talons had a transfercase recal? new transfercases were instaled and synthetic oils (amsoil) was added form the dealer!
dont get me wrong folks you can use anything you want .I used to work for a Yamaha dealership and we used to tell our costomers not to use synthetics ,that you should stick to regular oils,Now I know why,it meansd less work and less $$$ for us in the long run.An eangine that runs synthetics will run much cooler,have less wear,less carbon deposits,less scoring and valve damage,timming chains and guides with almost no damage or signs of wear.I have had old bikes with thousands of miles bruoght to me for a tune up/rebuild after 10 years of hard riding ! and Some needed nothing,not even rings and all parts matched factory specs! that is how we can tell who uses synthetics.It is a Fact not a guess or a sujestion Synthetics are far better oils,

 

I totally agree that synthetic oil is superior to conventional motor oil. I know you can go longer between oil changes running synthetic oil, but i try not to get over 2,000 miles between oil changes on my Talon using reg. 10w-30 oil. To me, both oils get dirty, so why not get the cheaper oil and change it more frequently? And then somebody might buy the most expensive synthentic oil out there, and turn around and buy the cheapest oil filter they can find and let dirt or whatever get buy this "cheap" filter. So now their expensive oil that they are running 6,000 miles between oil changes has dirt in it, but they wouldn't know that. And they continue running their motor with all this crud in it until their 6,000 miles is up.

 

the biggest problem with the 4g63 engine is getting rid of lifter tic All the DSM forums all swear buy the same thing with the exception of a few .Mobil 1 synthetic and purolater filters .somr prefer the Amsoil,and Pensoil synthetics others the Vavoleen none the less most all owners use synthetic ..
true running a good oil and poor filter is conplete stupidity. I had to got to a friends house to hear what lifter tic sounded like in our cars (his was a 2G)I had never heard it from mine.
I take it your a menber of a DSM club ?