Rancher hard to shift when cold?
#1
Rancher hard to shift when cold?
My 2006 Rancher TRX350TM is VERY hard (nearly impossible) to shift when the engine is cold. The dealer says I need to let the unit warm for about 10 minutes before using it. Since my warranty is about to expire I just wanted to know if anyone else was experiencing this problem? From N to 1st is ok but 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd, and so on is tough!! Do you think I should bring it back and have it checked out or is this common in them?
#2
Rancher hard to shift when cold?
My 05 is the same way. I start off in 2nd gear most of the time and before it warms up, I have to dang near come to a stop in order to up-shift. Once it warms up, no problems.
My only complaint is that the choke **** won't stay out. When starting the machine, I have to hold out the choke **** or it will slowly retract. Does yours do this?
My only complaint is that the choke **** won't stay out. When starting the machine, I have to hold out the choke **** or it will slowly retract. Does yours do this?
#3
Rancher hard to shift when cold?
Sure wouldn't hurt to adjust the clutch. Instructions are in your owner's manual.
When mine were new they shifted hard, but loosened up with time. If it is about to go off warranty, I assume that it is about a year old. Seems like it would loosen up by now.
Now that the weather is turning colder, are you running a winter weight oil????
When mine were new they shifted hard, but loosened up with time. If it is about to go off warranty, I assume that it is about a year old. Seems like it would loosen up by now.
Now that the weather is turning colder, are you running a winter weight oil????
#4
Rancher hard to shift when cold?
The unit is 6 months old. I haven't changed the oil weight for winter conditions. I don't think the temps have been below the rancge given in the manual for the weight I'm using. I am using the Honda brand oil as they recommend. I figured if it were a clutch problem it would continue to be problematic even after warming up. Once this thing has run for awhile it is fine.
My choke does retract on it own. I saw a thread in here regarding that exact problem. One person said that there is an adjusting nut under the rubber boot that may need to be tightened.
My choke does retract on it own. I saw a thread in here regarding that exact problem. One person said that there is an adjusting nut under the rubber boot that may need to be tightened.
#5
Rancher hard to shift when cold?
before i wrecked my '04, it was hard to shift when the engine was cold, seemed like the first shift from 1st to 2nd was almost impossible. Then after I went through the gears down the road, then it was fine.
my choke **** didnt retract by itself though, it should stay out until you push it back in. like the previous post- there might be a jam nut under the rubber boot, you could check that out.
my choke **** didnt retract by itself though, it should stay out until you push it back in. like the previous post- there might be a jam nut under the rubber boot, you could check that out.
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#9
Rancher hard to shift when cold?
I also have a 2006 Rancher (mine is about 3 months old) I also noticed it was a little hard to shift when cold from 1st to 2nd but once it warmed just a little I did not noticed it. I just recently did the first oil change and put Mobil 1 fully synthenic MC oil in it. After reading the post I now realize that I have not noticed the hard shift anymore, so maybee the syntheic oil or the break in helped. I will add that I am very pleased with my Rancher 4x4 foot shift I think simpler is often better.
#10
Rancher hard to shift when cold?
Here is what I would try: Maybe try running some Honda HP4M (with moly), just for a short time (NOT something you would normally want to do). The moly might loosen up the sticky clutch plates. I would only use it for a short time though, like maybe do a 30 minute ride where you will do lots of shifting, then immediately replace the oil. I personally recommend Maxima Extra ester synthetic, but any motorcycle specific API SG/JASO MA oil will be a descent choice.
Actually, HP4M won't kill a clutch. Back years ago when it first came out, it had the same bottle color as the regular HP4. I bought the M (they didn't even call it M back then), not realizing what it was. All that identified it as containing moly, was some little printing on the label in rather small letters. I actually ran it in my 300EX for one oil change, and it didn't make a bit of difference to the clutch.
Actually, HP4M won't kill a clutch. Back years ago when it first came out, it had the same bottle color as the regular HP4. I bought the M (they didn't even call it M back then), not realizing what it was. All that identified it as containing moly, was some little printing on the label in rather small letters. I actually ran it in my 300EX for one oil change, and it didn't make a bit of difference to the clutch.