<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Thing is, ZDDP coats and inactivated the catalyst in the converter</end quote></div>

I remember an anti-shear additive that was supposed to help oil performance, especially with gears, that had to be eliminated so cars would pass their 100,000 mile emission standard, and I think it was Zinc in the compound in the oil that would get into the exhaust stream via crankcase breather and kill the cat converter...

Is this the ZDDP you are talking about?

 

So Basil, what does it all mean? What oil should I be buying for my Foreman and Rincon. I am getting ready to change the oil in both.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: JeffinTD

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Thing is, ZDDP coats and inactivated the catalyst in the converter</end quote></div>



I remember an anti-shear additive that was supposed to help oil performance, especially with gears, that had to be eliminated so cars would pass their 100,000 mile emission standard, and I think it was Zinc in the compound in the oil that would get into the exhaust stream via crankcase breather and kill the cat converter...



Is this the ZDDP you are talking about?[/q]

Yes! It is composed of Zinc, Sulfer, and Phosphorous.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ZDDP

 

TLC
Do you believe everything you read. Friend of mine started using Amway (Amsoil) a couple weeks ago.......said it was the greatest stuff around, tried to tell him different.......went snowmobiling this morning.......he is on his way to the shop with a broken crank and bearings out. It only had 1285 miles on it. Now go figure.

Tuffguy
Use an oil that best fits your budget and your riding style, however what ever you use, changing the oil at manufactures intervals is a must if not some sooner. I personelly use Honda's syn oil in my ATV's and use Valvoline Syn in my '93 460, my '04 Powerstroke (5W-40) and in my wifes car I use Valvoline Max (5W-30). I use Yamalube in my Yamaha snowmobiles.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: tramp

TLC

Do you believe everything you read. Friend of mine started using Amway (Amsoil) a couple weeks ago.......said it was the greatest stuff around, tried to tell him different.......went snowmobiling this morning.......he is on his way to the shop with a broken crank and bearings out. It only had 1285 miles on it. Now go figure.



Tuffguy

Use an oil that best fits your budget and your riding style, however what ever you use, changing the oil at manufactures intervals is a must if not some sooner. I personelly use Honda's syn oil in my ATV's and use Valvoline Syn in my '93 460, my '04 Powerstroke (5W-40) and in my wifes car I use Valvoline Max (5W-30). I use Yamalube in my Yamaha snowmobiles.</end quote></div>

Amsoil cannot be that bad......... Team Amsoil Honda has been running it for years with not one engine blow up in the CRF450s or CRF250s.......They run it in the motocross and supercross teams. And at one point during the first few years of the 450cc 4-strokes Kevin Windham used the same 4 engines the entire season.

This whole "Amway" thing is news to me.... As I said I've always bought Amsoil off the shelf of my local dealers. And I know many people who race ATVs and motorcycles that have used Amsoil for years with no issues.

I'm certainly not claiming it to be the best out there, but it has always been well regarded in the circles I've been in. And I've been around MX racing and ATVs just about all my life.

 

Some reading:

http://www.thumperfaq.com/oil.htm


http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_oil/index.html


http://www.maximausa.com/techn...news/LubeNews2002.pdf


http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/engine_oil_history.shtml

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: tramp

TLC

Do you believe everything you read. Friend of mine started using Amway (Amsoil) a couple weeks ago.......said it was the greatest stuff around, tried to tell him different.......went snowmobiling this morning.......he is on his way to the shop with a broken crank and bearings out. It only had 1285 miles on it. Now go figure.
================================================== ============================


Maybe the jig was just up for your friend, I went on a Easter seals snowarama fundraiser last week with 135 snow machines seen more than a few motors go off like hand grenades.

Your suppose to recalibrate you oil injection pump on the 2 strokes when switching to full synthetic oil.

For example a Arctic Cat 440 FC is meant to run at 20:1 OEM oil but will run at 50:1 on full synthetic oil.

 

Back in the day doing farm work, we ran Rotella 15W40 in everything from lawnmowers, generators, three wheelers to pickups, to the big cam Cummins in a freightliner, and the Cat V8 in a Steiger...

What do you guys think about the practice of running diesel oil in ATV's?

I know they also had a reformulation (From CI-4 to CJ-4) when 07 emissions hit and diesels got cooled exhaust recirculation systems, particulate filters, and cats... Supposidly the CJ offers superior performance? Does this change effect how the oil would do in a motorcycle/atv?

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>I have been buying Amsoil off the shelf at local dealerships for years..... I've never had to deal with anything like you guys are saying here at all.... If I did I would NEVER have bought it in the first place I assure you. </end quote></div>
SS97 here is a link that talks about their multi-level marketing.

About the only way you can buy it off the shelf is if the owner of the dealership marketed the oil himself. This is just a guess on my part.

An owner has a bunch of customers asking for Amsoil all the time. He thinks to himself, hmmmmmmmm I can make some $$$'s on this deal. He becomes a dealer for Amsoil. ((for like 50 to 100 bucks worth of oil you too can become a dealer) He then puts it on the shelf with his mark-up and makes a bunch of $$$'s.

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Doctorturbo: I also agree with you about contamination being the limiting factor for any oil for most ATV users. As I understand it anyway, aside from dirt and mud just normal blowby gasses plus condensation will eventually form acids that exceed what the bases in the oil can neutralize... </end quote></div>
Ya, I agree with ya. The oil package can take care of a lot of things but water and mug is not one of them.

I just don't use anything but dino oil in any of my quads. Never a problem. If I lived in MN and liked to ride in -30 weather then my answer would be different.

There is a place for synthetic oils just like premium gasoline. But for 99% of the quads in the field, it's just not needed.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: JeffinTD

Back in the day doing farm work, we ran Rotella 15W40 in everything from lawnmowers, generators, three wheelers to pickups, to the big cam Cummins in a freightliner, and the Cat V8 in a Steiger...



What do you guys think about the practice of running diesel oil in ATV's?



I know they also had a reformulation (From CI-4 to CJ-4) when 07 emissions hit and diesels got cooled exhaust recirculation systems, particulate filters, and cats... Supposidly the CJ offers superior performance? Does this change effect how the oil would do in a motorcycle/atv?</end quote></div>

Rotella is a Group III synthetic, and has a less sophisticated chemistry than the other two groups. In other words, you aren't even getting second best (PAO), but rather only third best. All it has going for it, is a very low price.

Don't get sucked in by the fact that something is a "diesel" oil! Folks imagine that diesels are this extreme type of engine, but they are nowhere near as hard on their oil compared to a screaming 450 quad or dirt bike!

And remember, diesel oils recently got reformulated for cat converters just like car oils did back when, so they no longer have optimum levels of ZDDP either. And, it is anyones guess what wet clutch incompatible friction modifiers, they might contain.

It's pretty darn simple to just find an API SG/JASO MA rated motorcycle oil! And...if you what the very best, find something that is also ester based!

Some more reading:

http://www.p1-performance.com/pdf/oildoc.pdf