Honda Electric Shift (ES) Problem Solved
#22
I wouldn't. The angle sensor tells the motor when to stop, without it you are guessing. The selector mechanism is fairly fragile as it is, and will soon break. If I remember rightly the motor is 9 Volt too.
#23
Thanks Chris my 420 won't shift at times and it seems if I shut it down and let it cool it is fine and this is after working it hard. Do You think this is the same problem You had. Thanks Mike
#24
I created an account just to reply to this, my mom has two 2013 trx420fpe es 4x4 ranchers.
She uses hers ten times more than I use mine.
Today she showed up driving in reverse, wont shift, you let it cool down, it shifts.
I swapped the shift actuators then drove my bike with her suspected bad actuator, after 3/4 mile and warming up, it started failing to shift, then failed completely, it WILL SHIFT DOWN when it fails, but not up, hence her showing up in reverse.
My actuator is on her higher hour bike right now and worked fine after 5 miles of hard riding.
Problem, thermal breakdown in the mitsumi shift actuator, replace.
She uses hers ten times more than I use mine.
Today she showed up driving in reverse, wont shift, you let it cool down, it shifts.
I swapped the shift actuators then drove my bike with her suspected bad actuator, after 3/4 mile and warming up, it started failing to shift, then failed completely, it WILL SHIFT DOWN when it fails, but not up, hence her showing up in reverse.
My actuator is on her higher hour bike right now and worked fine after 5 miles of hard riding.
Problem, thermal breakdown in the mitsumi shift actuator, replace.
#25
And after telling you to replace it...
I removed the two screws disassemble the unit, spray brake clean liberally washing out all the carbon.
Same to the copper commutator where the black brushes connect DO NOT CLEAN THE BRUSHES EVER
Lots of black on the copper so I LIGHTLY dremel wire brushed it off, DO NOT SAND IT, you will cause massive brush wear
Put it together and it shifts fine now
Less than an hour between posts so its quite easy to remove clean reinstall
I removed the two screws disassemble the unit, spray brake clean liberally washing out all the carbon.
Same to the copper commutator where the black brushes connect DO NOT CLEAN THE BRUSHES EVER
Lots of black on the copper so I LIGHTLY dremel wire brushed it off, DO NOT SAND IT, you will cause massive brush wear
Put it together and it shifts fine now
Less than an hour between posts so its quite easy to remove clean reinstall
#27
Having similar issues.my shifting problem is intermittent though no rhyme or reason it seems like , sometimes I hear the shift motor clicking and trying to shift but no shift , other times I push the button up or down and hear no clicking on the shift motor ..? I have not noticed any blinking of any sort on the screen , sometimes it does the " -- " in place of the gear part on the screen.. saw a guy online who was master electrician aircraft engineer and very intelligent man and he said he had similar problems with his rancher es and he used an anti corrosive post on the connections of the harness and it fixed his issue , others say the angle position sensor , the shifting motors inside brushed need to be polished . I'm curious is anyone has had my specific problem , it's hard to diagnose when it only does it from timee to time.. any insight would be greatly appreciated . Do not have the funds to dump random parts into the vehicle that will not fix the problem. Thank you guys so much this site has helped me learn a lot about my atv and I hope somebody can help with me with this as well !!
#28
The sometimes it shifts, sometimes it doesn't, can be the buttons not working properly. This would also explain why it doesn't go into fault mode and start blinking, the computer doesn't know you have tried. However, pre 2004 bikes don't "fault code" anyway, and a faulty motor may decide not to work intermittently, as can a faulty angle sensor. I have new button assemblies and angle sensors on the shelf, so can substitute to check these, but for someone who isn't "in the trade", the cheapest way is to check inside and clean the motor. If that is OK, go for either the buttons or the angle sensor. You can in theory test these, but intermittent faults are bad to find.
#30
The Auto 400 is a totally different engine and gearbox to the 350ES. The Auto is an electro hydraulic operated CVT, and the 350ES is a manual gearbox with an electric motor replacing your left boot.




