Loosing power in mid-range only when gradually accelerating...
#21
03-04-2019, 06:08 PM
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#22
03-04-2019, 10:44 PM
Range Rover
Is the bog on the Throttle punch back to the 1/2 to 3/4 position going thru 3rd and 4th or is it when holding the throttle at that position accelerating thru 3rd and 4th or just easing the throttle to the position. What position was the needle in when you put the 152 in? With the 152 it might should have gone back to the 4th position with the smaller main.
#23
03-05-2019, 06:03 AM
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Is the bog on the Throttle punch back to the 1/2 to 3/4 position going thru 3rd and 4th or is it when holding the throttle at that position accelerating thru 3rd and 4th or just easing the throttle to the position. What position was the needle in when you put the 152 in? With the 152 it might should have gone back to the 4th position with the smaller main.
#24
03-07-2019, 05:12 PM
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Is the bog on the Throttle punch back to the 1/2 to 3/4 position going thru 3rd and 4th or is it when holding the throttle at that position accelerating thru 3rd and 4th or just easing the throttle to the position. What position was the needle in when you put the 152 in? With the 152 it might should have gone back to the 4th position with the smaller main.
#25
03-08-2019, 09:00 AM
At the throttle position you're having trouble with (which I understand is 1/2 to 3/4), does it only bog while you're accelerating? Or if you hold it constantly at that position, does it spit and sputter the whole time? If the latter, have you checked the plug coloration again after holding it at that point?
Sorry if this sounds redundant....kinda running out of ideas here.
Sorry if this sounds redundant....kinda running out of ideas here.
#26
03-08-2019, 09:13 AM
I'm sorry, but whomever told you to drop a main that much without really knowing your machine is nuts! You'll be guessing all day long if you don't start doing some plug chops. I would definitely richen the main back up and do one at WOT (that's the most important as it's the greatest load on the engine), then I'd work my way back to 3/4 and 1/2 throttle. The A/F adjustment is an adjustment done at idle...baseline is generally 2.5 turns out from lightly seated...you fine tune that when running listening to the motor...there are good vids about how to do this.
If you are doing this in the cold be aware that everything will fat'n up as the warmer weather arrives...
If you go through all these steps and still can't get a carb to run consistently I'd start thinking about other possible issues including air leaks...
If you are doing this in the cold be aware that everything will fat'n up as the warmer weather arrives...
If you go through all these steps and still can't get a carb to run consistently I'd start thinking about other possible issues including air leaks...
#27
03-08-2019, 12:53 PM
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Well here’s a question.. I read somewhere that the accelerator pump is only a factor when starting. Well turns out I had it backwards from the first time rejetting. I had the spring pushing down on the pump instead up into the carburetor. So I changed that out last night and put the spring back how it’s supposed to be. Could that be causing it? I’ll have to Throw maybe a 158 or 160 in there instead of the 162 I had in previously, or should I put the 162 back in with the pump back how it should be functioning...
#28
03-08-2019, 02:18 PM
It sounded like you were close to having everything work, so try it first without rejetting. Unless you KNOW something is wrong, making multiple changes at once usually corrects one thing, screws up something that was already right, and leaves you still not knowing which was which. If the pump corrects the bogging problem, then do the color tests with the plugs. THEN change the jets if you need to.
Good luck!
Good luck!
#29
03-08-2019, 05:27 PM
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It sounded like you were close to having everything work, so try it first without rejetting. Unless you KNOW something is wrong, making multiple changes at once usually corrects one thing, screws up something that was already right, and leaves you still not knowing which was which. If the pump corrects the bogging problem, then do the color tests with the plugs. THEN change the jets if you need to.
Good luck!
Good luck!
#30
03-09-2019, 04:12 PM
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I’ve gone as far as throwing tbe 162 main back in, and it just sputters after hitting mid throttle. From mid to wide open it just sputters. I put in a 170, same thing, a 172, same thing, 175 after a quarter throttle in the 175 it just bogged out and almost shut off so I’m assuming that’s too rich. I checked for vacc leaks, sprayed the carb and intake boot and carb boot to the engine with carb cleaner and didn’t get any change while idling so no leaks are present. I would have tried going to a 165 or 168 but my local shop didn’t have it. Also when I pulled the plug running the 170 it was white.... how in the FSpam wordSpam word Spam wordSpam word Spam wordSpam word Spam wordSpam word * is this thing running lean on 170 and 172.