Loosing power in mid-range only when gradually accelerating...
#31
03-09-2019, 08:03 PM
Beats the @$#%&$*! out of me!
On the theory that free advice is worth what you paid for it...
Go back to the 150. From what you described you were soooo close.....
See what it does when everything is set like it was BEFORE your re-did the pump (when everything was almost there) and see if the pump made any difference.
On the theory that free advice is worth what you paid for it...
Go back to the 150. From what you described you were soooo close.....
See what it does when everything is set like it was BEFORE your re-did the pump (when everything was almost there) and see if the pump made any difference.
#32
03-10-2019, 09:10 AM
Join Date: Feb 2019
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Beats the @$#%&$*! out of me!
On the theory that free advice is worth what you paid for it...
Go back to the 150. From what you described you were soooo close.....
See what it does when everything is set like it was BEFORE your re-did the pump (when everything was almost there) and see if the pump made any difference.
On the theory that free advice is worth what you paid for it...
Go back to the 150. From what you described you were soooo close.....
See what it does when everything is set like it was BEFORE your re-did the pump (when everything was almost there) and see if the pump made any difference.
#34
03-10-2019, 09:35 PM
Range Rover
The accelerator pump is only for a spray of fuel when the throttle is stabbed to feed until vacuum gets the fuel flowing. Think of it like a pump spray bottle. It helps the transfer from off the gas to back o n the gas. For 1 ride the 162 had everything almost perfect in the other thread but the next ride it started bogging. With the quad off take the air tube from carb to air box off you might watch the fuel spray through back of carb when throttle is stabbed to see the spray if it’s weak or spraying early or late. Did you just turn the fuel screw “D screw on bottom of carb” to where you thought it should be or did you adjust it where it seemed best.
#35
03-11-2019, 06:36 AM
Join Date: Feb 2019
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The accelerator pump is only for a spray of fuel when the throttle is stabbed to feed until vacuum gets the fuel flowing. Think of it like a pump spray bottle. It helps the transfer from off the gas to back o n the gas. For 1 ride the 162 had everything almost perfect in the other thread but the next ride it started bogging. With the quad off take the air tube from carb to air box off you might watch the fuel spray through back of carb when throttle is stabbed to see the spray if it’s weak or spraying early or late. Did you just turn the fuel screw “D screw on bottom of carb” to where you thought it should be or did you adjust it where it seemed best.
#36
03-11-2019, 08:57 AM
Range Rover
#37
03-11-2019, 11:49 AM
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i adjusted the air mixture screw till it didn’t bog at all, about 2 1/2 turns and then made the idle screw set to have a nice low idle. Idles perfect when warmed up. What’s that have to do with the midrange and wide open throttle though? Aren’t those separate from that
#39
03-11-2019, 03:47 PM
Range Rover
Just making sure we weren’t confused on idle and fuel mixture screw. I thought 04’s had the d screw but they started in 05. Have you used the choke any time you’ve started the bike or tried putting choke on during any trial runs or put air lid back on to see if that would change anything on trial runs.
#40
03-12-2019, 08:57 AM
Hey, hope my "On the theory that free advice is worth what you paid for it..." wasn't taken wrong. That was just frustration on my part of not having an answer. No offense intended.
Accelerator pump theory (sorta
) with disclaimer ....I know "atmospheric pressure pushes the fuel rather than the vacuum sucking it, but "sucking" is shorter and easier to type 
The Venturi action (vacuum) in the carb is dependent on how much air is coming through the carb in a given amount of time. That amount is dependent on your engine displacement and how fast it's running (rpm's).
So at low rpm's (not pulling much air), the slide is almost closed, but you still have vacuum. At wide open, the slide is wide open but the high rpm's are pulling more air, so you still have a good vacuum.
But when you hit the throttle hard from low idle, the engine is at low rpm, but now the throttle slide is wide open. The vacuum collapses momentarily (until the rpm's catch up), but in that instant the engine bogs because no vacuum means you're not pulling any gas in. That's where the accelerator pump kicks in.
With all things in balance, the vacuum has been holding the accelerator pump diaphragm down. When the vacuum collapses, the spring pulls up and sprays that squirt (that Lt. Granddad was talking about) into the carb to transition across the lull until the rpm's catch up. Otherwise, it just sits there.
The carb is trying to maintain a roughly 14:1 air gas ratio. At low rpm's, less throttle opening (but relatively SAME vacuum), the orifices (pilot) have to be smaller to maintain that ratio. As the rpm's and throttle opening gradually increase, the vacuum doesn't change that much, but the fuel orifices (needle jet, jet needle, main) all allow more and more fuel to maintain that ratio. That's why a throttle chop at various throttle settings indicates different problems in the carb.
Disclaimer: I know this is not all that in-depth, but it's my understanding. If I'm dead wrong, I'd be happy to be corrected (and enlightened!!)
So... here's my twisted logic (and I'm relatively sober at the moment). If the bike was "almost there" until you corrected the accelerator pump, and now nothing works or makes sense, I would suspect that maybe the pump was right to start with? It seems to be the turd in the churn at the moment.
Accelerator pump theory (sorta
) with disclaimer ....I know "atmospheric pressure pushes the fuel rather than the vacuum sucking it, but "sucking" is shorter and easier to type The Venturi action (vacuum) in the carb is dependent on how much air is coming through the carb in a given amount of time. That amount is dependent on your engine displacement and how fast it's running (rpm's).
So at low rpm's (not pulling much air), the slide is almost closed, but you still have vacuum. At wide open, the slide is wide open but the high rpm's are pulling more air, so you still have a good vacuum.
But when you hit the throttle hard from low idle, the engine is at low rpm, but now the throttle slide is wide open. The vacuum collapses momentarily (until the rpm's catch up), but in that instant the engine bogs because no vacuum means you're not pulling any gas in. That's where the accelerator pump kicks in.
With all things in balance, the vacuum has been holding the accelerator pump diaphragm down. When the vacuum collapses, the spring pulls up and sprays that squirt (that Lt. Granddad was talking about) into the carb to transition across the lull until the rpm's catch up. Otherwise, it just sits there.
The carb is trying to maintain a roughly 14:1 air gas ratio. At low rpm's, less throttle opening (but relatively SAME vacuum), the orifices (pilot) have to be smaller to maintain that ratio. As the rpm's and throttle opening gradually increase, the vacuum doesn't change that much, but the fuel orifices (needle jet, jet needle, main) all allow more and more fuel to maintain that ratio. That's why a throttle chop at various throttle settings indicates different problems in the carb.
Disclaimer: I know this is not all that in-depth, but it's my understanding. If I'm dead wrong, I'd be happy to be corrected (and enlightened!!)
So... here's my twisted logic (and I'm relatively sober at the moment). If the bike was "almost there" until you corrected the accelerator pump, and now nothing works or makes sense, I would suspect that maybe the pump was right to start with? It seems to be the turd in the churn at the moment.