Restore My R or build the engine??????
#1
I've got an 86 trx 250R i'm rebuilding. When i say rebuilding, i mean rebuilding. I bought the engine in a box, where as the transmission gears and washers were just kinda of scattered here and there. I've rebuild the whole entire bottom end and top end..now to only find i have the wrong piston(87 year..5mm longer stroke), and have to order a new one. I've had to replace a lot of parts, but have gone back with original honda. Hopefully, i'm praying it will crank when i try to kick it over for the first time.
I can't decide if i want to build my engine(there's already some portwork done, and the clyinder is .050 over)and go all out on the chasis and engine, to really have a strong running banshee killer. Or if i want to keep it stock, and order OEM Plastic and completely restore it? The swingarm will eventually have to be replace because it was broke into, and welded back together with plates on the outside. Also the axle is badly rusted and will have to be replaced sometime. So should i make my banshee killer, or completely restore it and have a mint 86?
I can't decide if i want to build my engine(there's already some portwork done, and the clyinder is .050 over)and go all out on the chasis and engine, to really have a strong running banshee killer. Or if i want to keep it stock, and order OEM Plastic and completely restore it? The swingarm will eventually have to be replace because it was broke into, and welded back together with plates on the outside. Also the axle is badly rusted and will have to be replaced sometime. So should i make my banshee killer, or completely restore it and have a mint 86?
#2
I'll try to help a little here,
Do you have an 86 cylinder and an 87 piston? Do you know what rod you have? An 86 rod is shorter, and the wrist pin sits lower in the piston. If you have the longer rod (87 on)then the 87 piston should work.
Unless the engine case has been machined and an aftermarket crank installed, the stroke on all stock R's is the same. The length of the rod/piston doesn't affect your stroke. It can/will affect your compression/compression ratio.
Can't tell you where to go with this ride; I think that's something you'll have to figure out what you want.
Do you have an 86 cylinder and an 87 piston? Do you know what rod you have? An 86 rod is shorter, and the wrist pin sits lower in the piston. If you have the longer rod (87 on)then the 87 piston should work.
Unless the engine case has been machined and an aftermarket crank installed, the stroke on all stock R's is the same. The length of the rod/piston doesn't affect your stroke. It can/will affect your compression/compression ratio.
Can't tell you where to go with this ride; I think that's something you'll have to figure out what you want.
#3
#4
my 2 cents [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] i look at it this way, are you going to get a stock swingarm that will break again,a stock axel that will bend again?? id say no, your going to get a lonestar or laeger swingarm, and a lonestar or RPM axel. (do yourself a favor here,durablue's are scrap) as far as plastic,,after getting the other stuff, stock seems expensive, altho it does look the best. now comes the motor,a pipe(LRD team B), carb(LECTRON),and porting(anyone BUT CT) is all your gonna need to be fast and reliable,,,hehe hope this helps [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
#5
Here's the way that I look at it, you can find built R's everywhere but how often do you ever see an all origional R? People will pay big bucks for those beceuase they are so rare. That and if you ever did sell it you'd have the easiest time. I for one would buy an R at almost any price if it was all origional. They are rare.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
#9
Ok, here are the plans for my R....
Red Fullbore Plastic(standard cut)
Powdercoat frame either Honda Red or Yellow
Renthal Bars
Lonestar Swingarm(will determine length once motor is fully built)
Some Brand A-Arms(+2,0 or +2,+1 haven't decided, which would be better?)
Chrome Arm's and Swingarm once purchased.
Some aftermarket shocks(don't know which brand or type yet, any help?)
ESR TRX5 Pipe and silencer(Chrome)
Boyeson Rad Valve
Portwork
Wiseco Piston
Pro Design Cool Head or ESR Cool Head(which is better?)
Eventually when i run out of overbores on my cylinder...ESR 310 Kit, or other brand??
DG Alloy Series Nefs
DG or AC Front Bumper Chrome
Holeshots, Razrs or Spider Tracs(which one's?)
Douglas 190's
Thats the list...it will take me a few months to a year to complete due to the cash flow coming in. I Just have rebuilt my entire motor that i pieced together and are praying it cranks. I'll mainly trail ride with friends, but love to go fast. I'm goin to enter in a local cross country race sometime so, any help would be appreciated as to which parts i should purchase...and if the motor and chassis combo i have selected will work together good?
Red Fullbore Plastic(standard cut)
Powdercoat frame either Honda Red or Yellow
Renthal Bars
Lonestar Swingarm(will determine length once motor is fully built)
Some Brand A-Arms(+2,0 or +2,+1 haven't decided, which would be better?)
Chrome Arm's and Swingarm once purchased.
Some aftermarket shocks(don't know which brand or type yet, any help?)
ESR TRX5 Pipe and silencer(Chrome)
Boyeson Rad Valve
Portwork
Wiseco Piston
Pro Design Cool Head or ESR Cool Head(which is better?)
Eventually when i run out of overbores on my cylinder...ESR 310 Kit, or other brand??
DG Alloy Series Nefs
DG or AC Front Bumper Chrome
Holeshots, Razrs or Spider Tracs(which one's?)
Douglas 190's
Thats the list...it will take me a few months to a year to complete due to the cash flow coming in. I Just have rebuilt my entire motor that i pieced together and are praying it cranks. I'll mainly trail ride with friends, but love to go fast. I'm goin to enter in a local cross country race sometime so, any help would be appreciated as to which parts i should purchase...and if the motor and chassis combo i have selected will work together good?