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Removing head?

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  #11  
Old 12-20-2001, 01:07 AM
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Oh yea, can anyone tell me the cheapest place to get a new piston/rings/gaskets? I see complete kits in DirtWheels for something like 99.99 and heard of complete kits for 69.99 and is there a way I can tell what overbore my old piston was without any special tools or should I just take it to a dealer and have them tell me? Thanks, later.
 
  #12  
Old 12-20-2001, 10:37 AM
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Please don't hit the cylinder directly with a metal hammer...that's just plain mean to the machine.
If you cannot get it to break free with a rubber mallet. Use a 2x4 to cushion the blow from a heavier metal hammer. It should break free rather easily.
 
  #13  
Old 12-20-2001, 12:09 PM
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Hitting it real hard will not get it off. Only cause damage.

I used a softer hammer, not rubber but a platic type. I believe the best type is called an impact hammer. Where there it is a rubber outside and filled with sand. When you hit something is actually causes an secondary impact with the sand.

Use a softer hammer to cause a slight vibration. Hit it around the bottom where the studs are. As you are tapping it slightly pull up on the cylinder. Also, you will want to pull it straight up not get on side higher than the other. A rubber mallet will only absorb the tapping and not too much. The slight vibration should free the cylinder from the studs enough to loosen it.

Never use a screwdriver, it will only cause damage to the surfaces. Remember patience is a virture.

Oh, be careful that the rings are not stuck when pulling it up. That can also cause problems.
 
  #14  
Old 12-20-2001, 01:01 PM
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Thanks lasher, now I just need to find someone with one of those hammers!
 
  #15  
Old 12-20-2001, 07:10 PM
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Lasher is right ltracerx, The hammer you need is called a DeadBlow. I know Lowes, Sears, and most Automotive stores have them. They range anywhere from like $15.00 to ( like $100.00 if you get one off of a tool truck.) When you use one of these it stops on what you are striking and doesnt bounce back like a rubber mallet. I think everyone needs one of these hammers if they are going to be working on their quads, they even make them with one end that is metal or brass. Work great for axles too.
 
  #16  
Old 12-20-2001, 08:44 PM
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i have always used a rubber mallet to remove the cylinder on the quadzilla but i am having problems with my r. It started to come loose but no matter how i wiggle, hit, and pull it, I cant get it to come off. I gave up for the night. Also the cylinder has never been removed from it before and i was wondering if from the factory there is extra gasket sealant on it. I have never had such a hard time with removing a cylinder. Any suggestions. Thanks
 
  #17  
Old 12-20-2001, 09:01 PM
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I was wondering if I use a DeadBlow, could I hurt the cylinder or crush the water jackets if I hit the cylinder too hard? I am beginning to think I should just take my motor down to a dealer and have them remove the cylinder, because to me a hammer+cylinder=$$$$$$ Also, I was wondering if any year liquid cooled CR250 piston will fit, because I have seen some on Ebay that were pretty cheap.
 
  #18  
Old 12-21-2001, 04:02 PM
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This may help.. put WD 40, PB blaster etc on the base studs and let it soak in. Sounds like the dowels may be rusted to your studs thats what my problem was. Then use your mallet.
 
  #19  
Old 12-22-2001, 06:39 PM
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Finally, I got it off. Now how am I supposed to tell what overbore it is? The sleeve is still pretty thick so I am thinking it is anywhere from stock-.020" overbore, not sure though. Do you guys think a MX shop could tell me without charging me stupid shop rates? Thanks in advance.
 
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