did you buy from a box store like cabelas or bass pro? after looking at the chart again you will be fine they are probably just a bit on the stiff side but since they are cut long ( they are about 3" past your rest at fd correct?) you will be fine.

 

I dont think the arrows are the problem here. Its the way the rest is sitting on the bow. All it takes is a small adjustments to the rest to get your arrows to quit kicking out. Paper tuning will tell you which way to go.

As far as the drop away rests....I have the Muzzy Zero Effect. And it has a small keeper that holds the arrow in place until you draw back. I can hold the bow upside down and the arrow wont fall out. Its great for stalking, as mentioned previously, and tree stand hunting. Having been burned by arrows falling off the rest and spooking game in the passed, I really appreciate this design!

I've never really been a fan of the WB rest. The design just irritates me....why does it make sense for the arrow to come into contact with bristles as it leaves the string? To me, this will cause problems eventually. There are a ton of them out there though, so people must be having some success with them. Also, I'm pretty sure there are a few different models for arrow size. Maybe this is part of the problem the OP is having? One final note, the WB will steal a few FPS from the arrow. They claim its a minimum, at only 1 FPS, but I would bet its more then that on most bows.

 

ive found that a improper spined arrow will not paper tune correctly anyways, ive given up basically on papertuning and mostley just walkback tune my bows now, paper tuning can be so frustrating trying to get a perfect bullet hole.

 

I can see that being a factor as well. Arrow spine, for those that dont know, is the stiffness of the arrow and its resistance to bending. Almost every bow shop has a chart that shows what spine you should be shooting for your draw length and weight, along with how much your arrow should weigh with tip included.

Paper tuning does take time and effort, plus some frustration, but when its complete...you'll be much more accurate. The biggest problem is knowing what and where to move to correct an arrow that kicks out.

I've never really done any of the walk back tuning, I do however, know what it is...and its another great way to get your bow tuned and your arrows to fly straight. Either way....it takes a lot of shooting and experience...but it so worth it!

 

OK, thanks again guys! I looked on the Easton website and for the draw weight, arrow length, and tip weight it comes up with the exact same FMJ arrow that I am using and GPI are the same also. So I think that I am OK there....Getting the aluminum loop for the TRU BALL release to hook to today in the mail....I will start tuning when that shows up.

 

Don't get the aluminum loop, get the string loop. It's more forgiving, more reliable, safer, quieter and less expensive.

 

dont use the alum loop, you will lose a eye, seriously though they are not good, i will send you some BCY loop material for free.

 

I haven't read all the other replys so I may be repeating someone else but here's my opinion.

I love my whisker biscuit. I like knowing that my arrow will never fall off no matter the situation. One mine the bristles are black on the bottom instead of brown. The black ones are stiffer to support the weight of the arrow. Make sure the fletchings clear the the black bristles.

As far as a loop, ive had both. I switched to a loop when i got a new bow. I reduces some wear on the string. However, your draw length depends on if you can use a loop or not. The extra 1/2" or so draw length may be too much for you.

I had cabela arrows that the WB rippled as well. I changed to better arrows with shorter fletching and haven't had any problems. I use Carbon Express Mathews Edition arrows. Make sure your bow is fine tuned and you shouldn't have any problems. practice practice practice.

 

Send it back, or toss it with your other bow/arrow parts box. You can take your bow to any bow shop and they'll put an actual string loop on for you for 5 bucks or less. It needs to be set correctly though, if not.... your going to have to re-adjust your sights. Also, its going to add a little bit to your draw length, so if your long already, you could see potential problems there. Let us know if you have any more questions or concerns!

 

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I will send him it for free and posted the link how to do it, its rather easy to do. cant remember the time a shop worked on my stuff.