Hi, I currently have a Bear Jennings bow with about 57lb draw. I have been hooking my release below the arrow nok and I beleve this is wrong? Should I buy a loop for it, if so what kind, I see the clamp on ones at Cabelas. I get mixed reviews on what they say on the cabelas reviews. The tie on string ones and the clamp on ones didnt do so good on the reviews at cabelas.com. What should I get?

Also My arrows are rubber on the flights and they ripple and tear going through my Wisker Biskuit, is this normal or what? Maybe only get 100 shots before they tear and they ripple within a few shots (2-3 shots). Is this normal! Pic of how I put the release on the string and the rippled arrow, is it from going through the Wisker Biskuit or what?

 

I switched from a knock, to a loop last year and found that while I gained a few feet per second in flight....I was a little less accurate at distances of 40 yards and over. I use a string loop and made the change to save my string from wear and tear that my release was causing. Its really personal preference as far as that goes I believe. You are hooking up correctly for your set up though, as that is the way I used to be set up.

As for the rest and what its doing to your arrows....I've never used a whisker biscuit, because my thought process is that nothing should be touching the arrow during flight or release. I use a drop away rest and love it! My accuracy improved after tuning and my muzzey's fly so much better out passed 30 yards then compared to before. I wouldnt use a rest that treated my fletchings like that. Its either by design, OR its not properly set up on the bow. Your arrows might be kicking out to one side or the other as they launch causing the problem your seeing.

 

Thanks for the reply! Good to know that I am hooking correctly to the string with my release. Just didnt seem right to have the release below the arrow and not straight behind it.

Yah, it could be possible that the arrow is going out of the bow a bit to one side or the other. the arrow is level when at full draw, and left and right seems fine when looking at it, not sure how to set that up to an exsact sience. A drop away would be the best but I just bought this new Buscuit, lol.

 

deffinatly tie on a loop dont use that aluminum one they are dangerous! imagine it letting loose ! how do you think that aluminum would feel getting hit by it?

on your rest im not a fan of the WB but make sure you have the bristles the right way so the fletching goes through the right ones (some are coarser then the others). the biggest things with the WB is fletching contact on the round frame if you dont have the centershot Exactly correct you will get contact. on your fletchings ditch the vanes your using and go to bohning blazers or AAE Max hunters they will hold up alot better. the reason I hate the WB is it goes against everything you dont want Fletching contact but some guys like them. but i will tell you this once you switch to a dropaway you will be much happier if you do alot of shooting and will notice your shooting improve alot at long distance 40 to 100 yards.

so my advice to you is put on a loop tie in nock sets (get rid of all the brass on the string) refletch your arrows with one of the 2 i mentioned, get your centershot correct by paper tuning or walkback tuning (I prefer walkback tuning) if you need help sent me a p.m i will hook you up with a link to do so.

heres a link how to tie a loop and tie in knock sets. browse this site and you will learn all you need to about archery.


Serving Nockset Tieing and D-Loops - ArcheryTalk Forum: Target & Bowhunting Chat

 

you may think your arrow is level at full draw and your rest is straight R to L but the only way to tell is paper tune or walkback tune. even then you might be over or under spined on your arrow which you will find in paper tuning. with dropaway rests alot of bows like the knock point about 1/8" high for fletching clearance, if your centershot is off 1/16 th of a inch you will get one heck of a right or left tear shooting through paper.

Im pretty much a archery fanatic along with atv nut and do all my own bow work and arrow building if you need anything send me a p.m. and if you are not happy with the WB and want a dropaway look at getting a vaportrails LimbDriver dropaway rest im convinved its the best dropaway on the market easiest i have ever setup and tune.

 

I used to have that same set-up on my last bow. Except I used fingers below the nok too. I don't like my vanes touching any part of the rest either.

 

WEll I really appreciate all your comments.....As far as the WB I would like to try and get it to work being I just bought it. I also found out that my fletchings are hitting the bottom part of the WB on the aluminum. I also read in my bear jennings book that the arrows should be noked 3/8" higher than the rest. Well I tried that and and the arrow is pointing down in the front ALOT. I mean i have shot this bow 1000's of times over 10years and now i start messing with parts to make it better and this is what happens...Just wanted to get it set-up for my first time deer hunting with a bow.

 

Another point I was thinking about, the peep sight has the rubber alignment tube tied on, however this rotates the string that the arrow clips to a 1/4 turn to make the peep sight straight. Does this make a difference when you release the arrow and the string turns back the 1/4 turn to how it wants to rest? is this an issue or not? You can tell I am new here to the add ons I put on the bow. lol

 

I like my WB, mostly b/c I stalk whitetails a lot during rainy/windy days. Through corn fields and swamps. It allows me to have my arrow knocked and ready to go. I never shoot at a deer over 25yds so being able to shoot long distances doesn't matter much to me.

The string is personal preference, the reason I went to a loop is was having roblems with the arrow staying knocked as I let down. Not always do you get the shot you had hoped to when you pull back. The loop allows me to draw down than pull backa second time without the arrow falling off.

As far as your fletchings, shouldn't affect flight, but my WB does not cause that. Could be the type that you are using, not sure.

 

I absolutely recommend a loop and have been using one myself since '96. Better accuracy, reduced wear, etc.

As far as the fletching problem goes, unfortunately this is a very common occurance with the Whisker Bicuit.... that's not to say it's a bad rest, because it isn't. In fact, it's a VERY good rest for the bowhunter. I recommend going to Bohning Blazer vanes or another similar harder plastic vane, as opposed to the softer, more "rubbery" vane. Blazers will last thousands of shots through the Biscuit and look as good as new.