Some clutch stuff.
Like most of you I revamped the clutch on the V700 maybe a little more drastic but it works. I posted times of 4.74 - 5.19 in 350 feet with rpms hitting 8000 - 8200 not sure of the total speed.

Spider was milled between cross sections eliminating excess material. Sheaves were machined to a total 0.100, 0.050 inchs per side then blended in by machining. Vanes on the rear of the front sheave were milled every second small vane was milled flat to 0.030 inchs above base sheave. What will happen now is the sheaves will come closer so the belt will move to the top of the sheaves produceing more speed all that is required is the horsepower to get it there. The rear bearing in the bottom of the sheaves was machined 0.040 smaller allowing the belt to reach bottom on the back and top on the front. I found the 700 belt was thinner than the 360 belt just my observation you may have to machine more or less to accomodate the belt being used. I also found the front basket of the moveable sheave is different than the 02 650 as it is hard to get the weights of the 650 where it is easy on the V700....more space for the socket. A major point is to gap the face plate to the basket the same as the distance machined on the sheaves...... 0.100 for sheaves / 0.100 for spacing or sheaves will not bottom out.

I also drilled holes in the V700 weights to lighten them up total weight savings was in around 700 grams. I left in the stock springs but took out most of the temper in the front spring allows weights to operate to full extent. All pieces were balanced separate then balanced when assembled.

 

bubba297;

Thanks for the information. but a couple of things.

Our clutches have a built in helix, can't be changed like your Polaris.

Second, when we drill our plate, it is drilled in the corners with 1/2 drill bit, it is an exact fit. unless the person is blind, it's hard to get out of place, (see Brewster2003 pic's or mine)

Third, I know of no clutch weights you can buy that are guanteed to be the exact weight, all I know of are guanteed to be within 5% weight, of each other,(some higher), so the clutch doesn't have to be 100% right on.
I know if it's way off, there would be trouble over time, as you say.

I've lighten the clutch on every ATV and snowmoble I've ever owned, including Polaris' and haven't had any problems yet.

Not bashing, just infor.

I would like to talk to you on Babba porting some time!

 

wildwill, Im not sure if you know or not but you just cant run out and buy a Drive Pulley Cover and slap it on. You have a 33% chance of being right. You will need a drive pulley measurement tool to determine which of the "3" Pulley Covers you will need. They come in "3" thicknesses and Im not sure if a V700 will work or not.

 

Shotgun, cool info. Knowledge is good stuff. It's a shame you cant tune those helixes to help out with performance. Dont put it past me to do drilling like that also. I guess really that I just wanted the guys who didnt know understand the importance of trying to get it as perfect as they can. At 8000 RPMs that clutch is making some good vibes[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] Not everyone will buy a $200 scale to measure their weights either, but I always like to have everything as close as possible. The twin is a naturally more balanced motor than that big single 2-stroke polaris motor I was running. I've ported 4-strokes for over 10 years and have been doing a lot of the 2-cycle cylinders for about the past 3 years. I dont have a business myself, but do them after the day job. I have the correct 90 degree setup for transfer ports and can do any of them as of now. You guys are doing good with the setups and I am impressed. Keep up the good work. Bubba

 

Hey Bubba,thanks . think i will get one of those pipes. Kids are old enough to mod the 80 a bit.Already lightened the rollers a bit,ported a little,cut .010 off head.I'll take a little more.It has all helped . What did you do on the rear .guess I'll pull it apart .
I know you are a scrambler guy( I have one of those too for drags),but if you ever get a chance try out one of these V's.They work smooth and are a total blast to drive.

 

Brewster,sorry I missed your post. By clutched,I meant that I have prototype clutching in the bike(but I don't want moderators sending me a mail). Just giving input regarding Rpm etc.

 

the drive pulley measurement is for the kebc that wildwill has removed so the v-force cover will work

 

KOD,

I know that! They are also color coated. But the different three you speak of are for the EBC tolerance against the clutch on the Prairie. The V-force doesn't have EBC and there is only one listed in the parts diagram. I ordered one today will let you know if it fits and the difference in weight between the two. Thanks for the input!

 

reds650,
Thanks for the info! I most of missed it while is was replying.

 

What is the mild V-force running et wise Brewster?