Let's Talk Belts & Clutches...
#51
08-21-2003 | 05:35 PM
Range Rover
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 160
Likes: 0
Let's Talk Belts & Clutches...
how about putting little 15 inch tires on so our speedometers read 80 + mph and just be happy with that??
No seriously, I love this subject, I am at the current moment deciding on whether to purchase the 360 belt or not, my belt is off of my 650 now waiting for my decision. With all this info, what is the final decision for the 360 belt??
Does the 360 belt increase top speed, even a little bit?? If someone can varify this I'm ordering today.
Thanks
No seriously, I love this subject, I am at the current moment deciding on whether to purchase the 360 belt or not, my belt is off of my 650 now waiting for my decision. With all this info, what is the final decision for the 360 belt??
Does the 360 belt increase top speed, even a little bit?? If someone can varify this I'm ordering today.
Thanks
#55
08-22-2003 | 01:55 AM
Pro Rider
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,435
Likes: 0
Let's Talk Belts & Clutches...
DaBeechMan,
4.74 was the lowest time 5.19 was the slowest time I made 10 runs with different modds these were with a basic stock setup except for basic stuff plus modded clutch. Tests were run on hard pack clay base road with very little gravel where the gravel was mostly pushed to the sides of the road so there was very little wheel spin. I can set the clutch so the front end will come up about 6 inches off the ground on take off keeping that height for about 20feet until torque/speed catch up to each other then it is full pull to the end of the course. The V would rev to 8200 at the 300 mark then stay there as the cdi will not allow for any more rpm keeping the rpm till it reached 350 feet. I have the clutch set so wheel spin is very little on take off without having to worry about flipping over but it will hold strong in the middle to the top end with the belt reaching the top of the sheaves. The major advantage is the bottom end where torque and speed are allowed to catch up to the power of the motor then the top end when the clutch will put out that extra 15 mph. Traction is the key you can have a world of horsepower and I have said this a hundred times If you can't put it to the ground it is useless.
My friend has a 100 HP Banshee we have worked on it for years he uses it strictly for 300 and 350 foot drags. He is consistently in the low 4's in 350 feet we have worked on his clutch trying many things to be able to put the power to the ground and we found there is a magic number that works for HP any more is a waist. What I am getting to is he is only 5 quad lengths faster in that distance than the V I worked on. I think that is pretty impressive for a basic stock machine. A lot of power and speed is lost in the first 40 feet the clutch is the key to making a winner whether it is gear driven or auto it is the same!
My times were done with a stop watch so there is deal of discrepancy I expect a few critics I did not post these times to impress anyone only to show what can be done if one wishes. I have spent many years in racing both cars and motor bikes so this is a natural thing for me I do this as a hobby. I have given a lot information about my modds that people are using with major results. The times only reflect the difference a modd will make. In a longer run you can move your horsepower to mid range, top end, even the bottom by changing your degree of modds this is the fun part this I thrive on. I have been playing with the Kawi as mostly as I have a 650 but I have also worked with my friends on their Polaris 700's, Yammy Raptors and so on they all benefit from my modds and do very well in the local fun runs around here. Hope I haven't bored you to much but that is pretty much it.
4.74 was the lowest time 5.19 was the slowest time I made 10 runs with different modds these were with a basic stock setup except for basic stuff plus modded clutch. Tests were run on hard pack clay base road with very little gravel where the gravel was mostly pushed to the sides of the road so there was very little wheel spin. I can set the clutch so the front end will come up about 6 inches off the ground on take off keeping that height for about 20feet until torque/speed catch up to each other then it is full pull to the end of the course. The V would rev to 8200 at the 300 mark then stay there as the cdi will not allow for any more rpm keeping the rpm till it reached 350 feet. I have the clutch set so wheel spin is very little on take off without having to worry about flipping over but it will hold strong in the middle to the top end with the belt reaching the top of the sheaves. The major advantage is the bottom end where torque and speed are allowed to catch up to the power of the motor then the top end when the clutch will put out that extra 15 mph. Traction is the key you can have a world of horsepower and I have said this a hundred times If you can't put it to the ground it is useless.
My friend has a 100 HP Banshee we have worked on it for years he uses it strictly for 300 and 350 foot drags. He is consistently in the low 4's in 350 feet we have worked on his clutch trying many things to be able to put the power to the ground and we found there is a magic number that works for HP any more is a waist. What I am getting to is he is only 5 quad lengths faster in that distance than the V I worked on. I think that is pretty impressive for a basic stock machine. A lot of power and speed is lost in the first 40 feet the clutch is the key to making a winner whether it is gear driven or auto it is the same!
My times were done with a stop watch so there is deal of discrepancy I expect a few critics I did not post these times to impress anyone only to show what can be done if one wishes. I have spent many years in racing both cars and motor bikes so this is a natural thing for me I do this as a hobby. I have given a lot information about my modds that people are using with major results. The times only reflect the difference a modd will make. In a longer run you can move your horsepower to mid range, top end, even the bottom by changing your degree of modds this is the fun part this I thrive on. I have been playing with the Kawi as mostly as I have a 650 but I have also worked with my friends on their Polaris 700's, Yammy Raptors and so on they all benefit from my modds and do very well in the local fun runs around here. Hope I haven't bored you to much but that is pretty much it.
#57
08-22-2003 | 02:47 AM
Extreme Pro Rider
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,588
Likes: 0
#58
08-22-2003 | 12:23 PM
Thread Starter
|
Pro Rider
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,930
Likes: 0
Let's Talk Belts & Clutches...
SHOTGUN, ALLTOY'S...anyone else... there is a very large snowmobile sale & swap meet coming up here in 3 weeks I'm considering going bargain clutch & parts shopping... any suggestions on what to look for ??? SHOTGUN has suggested the comet clutch, commonly found on Polaris sleds... What my intentions are, is to find a clutch set up, that could be trimed down to fit inside our belt cover ( hopefully ), but set up with the intent of easily trimming it down to produce as many of these variables as possible... ( A ) more torque ??? ( you can never have too much torque when turning 28" tires, & or ( B ) more top speed... if possible, I like to find the best relationship between the primary & secondary gearing, & the RPM limits of our motor, & or ( C ) the use of a common & inexpensive belt
can anyone explain better the relationship between the torque, & the helix shape / angle ??? I'm still a little unclear about that, & what I should be looking for in an ATV application
I understand that there will need to be tuning issues with the sled clutches, as they were on 2 cycle engines with much higher RPM's than my motor is turning
thanks ...WAM
can anyone explain better the relationship between the torque, & the helix shape / angle ??? I'm still a little unclear about that, & what I should be looking for in an ATV application
I understand that there will need to be tuning issues with the sled clutches, as they were on 2 cycle engines with much higher RPM's than my motor is turning
thanks ...WAM
#60
08-22-2003 | 01:45 PM
Extreme Pro Rider
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 3,042
Likes: 1
Let's Talk Belts & Clutches...
Originally posted by: alltoys
My friend has a 100 HP Banshee we have worked on it for years he uses it strictly for 300 and 350 foot drags. He is consistently in the low 4's in 350 feet we have worked on his clutch trying many things to be able to put the power to the ground and we found there is a magic number that works for HP any more is a waist. What I am getting to is he is only 5 quad lengths faster in that distance than the V I worked on. I think that is pretty impressive for a basic stock machine. A lot of power and speed is lost in the first 40 feet the clutch is the key to making a winner whether it is gear driven or auto it is the same!
My friend has a 100 HP Banshee we have worked on it for years he uses it strictly for 300 and 350 foot drags. He is consistently in the low 4's in 350 feet we have worked on his clutch trying many things to be able to put the power to the ground and we found there is a magic number that works for HP any more is a waist. What I am getting to is he is only 5 quad lengths faster in that distance than the V I worked on. I think that is pretty impressive for a basic stock machine. A lot of power and speed is lost in the first 40 feet the clutch is the key to making a winner whether it is gear driven or auto it is the same!