let's shift some of the belt & clutch info over here, & leave the other thread more for CDI info...

It was percieved general knowledge, that a 360 / 700 belt would provide more top end speed ??? ...the more I know about these CVT's the more this can not be true... we have been machining our clutches, & buying belts that cost twice as much... all in vain... where is this misinformation coming from

there are guys out there that have machined their clutches, yet still have 1/2" of unused drive pulley... why ??? because if the belt is at the bottom of the driven clutch, nothing but lengthening the belt, or making the bottom diameter of the driven clutch smaller is going to move that belt to that magic top 1/2" of the primary clutch...

The way I see it, is within reason, a replacement belt could be narrower or wider, as long as it was 1-2 inches longer ( that magic unobtainable 1/2inch X 3.14...( pie ) )

I'll be talking to a very tallented tool & die guy this week... about some "changes" to my primary clutch... possibly our secondary clutches could be redesigned to reduce the inner ( bottom ) diameter, easier than finding that magic belt

whoever was looking at replacement industrial belts... I'd be interested in finding a belt of similar ( anything even within 1/2" either way of our current belts ) width, but 1-1.5 inches longer ??? PM me or post please...

I'll bet that that magic 1/2" is safety margin to keep poorly maintained loose belts from jumping the primary ???

what do you guys think ??? am I full of it or what ???

 

Here's some technical stuff on belts and clutches. These articles are about snowmobile but apply to all belt clutch operation. I can tell you its important to use the belt that the clutches were designed for.

Belt info.

Trouble shooting

Optimizing

Calibration

How does the clutch system work?

 

There are only 2 ways to get more top end the way I see it. The first, or at least the one everyone has been most interested in, is to increase the rpm of both the drive and the driven pulleys. This means turning the engine at a higher rpm which in turn means cdi perameter changes.

The second way is to increase the differential in pulley diameters. A longer or more narrow belt can't help unless you have a way to take up the extra slack. Industrial engineers have been trying to figure this out for years since if you try to use an idler pulley it only forces the belt deeper into the sheaves and defeats the original purpose.

By the way, I gained more top end recently by rebushing my driven movable sheave to a tolerance of .0005 than anything else I've tried with the clutch itself.

 

My thoghts on the belt width not being that critical would refer to machining the primary to allow the sheeves to go closer together, if a narrower belt was used, & adding spacers to open up the clutches if a wider belt was used... I would think that the cover spacing would probably be the limiting factor to how wide a belt could be used??? WAM

 

I need to know if there are any Size numbers or ANY numbers on the belt I can run by our industrial supply Belt vendor.
Please post or send pics to ME

 

It's like everything else we try to do. Change one little thing and find it effects 10 others. When trying to machine the clutches the spring rates and lengths are both effected not to mention the overall strength of the parts in question.

Newbeatle, don't take me wrong, I like the way you think. It's just that I've been too dumb to figure it out yet myself and I've been trying for a while.

 

DANGEROUS...LOL none taken...I'm very good friends with a talented experienced ( better word than old ) tool & die Guy...we like to get together & brain storm...some one of a kind masterpieces ( firearms ) have been the result of our sessions ( unfortuneatly we don't share ATV's as one of our mutual passions, but he'll help me none the less...LOL )...we'll see what the future holds ...WAM

 

Just make sure to have your new belt and clutch handy to put back on. If a person could lower the gear ratio then the belt would move all the way up the drive clutch. They must have the gear ratio high along with a steep angle helix built in the secondary that keeps the belt from climbing. Bubba

 

THEROCK...Kawasaki has made it difficult to say the least...the only markings on the belt is the Kawasaki part number I have a slightly used 650 belt here today, I'll measure it, & clip a picture, & e-mail it to you

... OK I lied...I was told that it only had Kawasakis number...

in yellow, big print it says kawasaki
in white it has a directional arrow, a triangle with 3 stars in it, & the numbers 59011-1080D
in small red print it has the numbers B204027 71 2 4

the belt is beveled & at it's widest point is 1.2" wide, & outside diameter is 33.5", it is 3/8" thick... the belt is toothed top & bottom similar to a serpintine belt, however the clutch doesn't really use the top or bottom of the belt

I think I could make any severe duty belt with similar bevel work, that is 1" to 1.5" wide with an outside diameter of 35"

TR... what can you do for me... WAM

 

Thank You, I'll go to work on it.