i dont kno what the hell is wronge with you guys but my drag times are way better with the plain spring then any spring i ever tested. i havent tryed the pink yet cause it reminded me of a girly type spring but if you guys are correct i might have to buy one to test out.

 

hey i dont kno whats up with your quads or springs but the HPD plain is the best spring i have tryed yet. it has given me the fastest drag times also (300ft) i havent tryed the pink spring cause the shift outs seemed not agressive enuff like the plain but if you guys are right i guess i might try it out

 

Guys, Dalton have kits for the V that are awsom. They also have an over drive cover that will give you another 2-4 mhp on a V with duals (you need more power then stk V and exhaust to use it)
Check out this video of me on a Dalton clutched V.V video
This V has no problems with YFZ's
PS: KFX700 how quick do you run in 300ft?
Ray

 

I added the Dalton clutch face plate as well as their 58 gm wts and the HPD plain....I was quicker with the EPI bright green and none of the Dalton products on the quad yet. I dont know if im spinning the tires with the plain spring more due to having 20 inch tires on the rear versus the old 22's.

 

I hate to see our 700 community getting beat. I had a P650, Vforce and now a P700. Please read this and try to understand what needs to be done to get the CVT to transfer MORE HP to the rear wheels.

FACT. A typical Vforce plants 32-35hp to rear wheels on a inertia (dynojet) dyno.

FACT. Kawasaki says PEAK HP occurs at 6500 rpm on both the P700 and V700

FACT. Actual HP peaks out at 6000rpm on the dyno...stock OEM cam'd motor.

FACT. Stock OEM shiftout is 6800 to 7000 rpm.

FACT. Motor is over reving past peak hp from the factory!

FACT. Changing to a stiffer primary spring overrevs even further.

FACT. Lowering shift out rpm transfers more HP to rear wheels.

FACT. Changing to a lighter primary spring OR heavier weights OR Lighter/more
agressive profile weights with heavier primary spring(kit) lowers shift out
RPM near that 6000 peak HP point. 6100 to 6200 is what you want.

Someone else on this forum tried to explain the same thing. These EPI springs are designed for there Belly Buster weights.
If I just wanted to try a spring, I believe the EPI Bright Green is the one. I had one of there pre production clear springs in the
primary(between BG and Pink Specs) and the black in the secondary. This dropped the RPM to 6500 from the stock 6900 on my
tach. Improvement was very noticable. Even without a dyno to verify. Sound of the motor is weird(sounds to low of an RPM).

I'm still waiting to dyno my P700. The shop is loaded up with sleds...(Hot-To-Go).

Someone needs to try the BG EPI and run a Raptor/YFZ and compare. I ride with 4wd atv's mostly and it is no contest. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img]

 

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhh:

THANKS VFORCE STAN!!!

That exactly what I have been saying all along. You need the clutch faces machined, needles machined to match the clutches (pm me and I will go into detail) AND heavier weights. The Dalton levers are a MUST with pipes dual intakes and the HPD plain I am running 58 gram Daltons plus 1.6 gram Yamie rivits in the outer hole (sorry Dale I forget the tech name for the hole!!). Get the faceplate as well, Less rotating mass spins the clutch up quickly and the levers take over from there. I would never in a million years go back to the Pinkie with duals and clutching done. I have had to go up 20 jets sizes from factory and I am at 3000 feet!!

Come on up and ride my bike!! you will not be dissappointed.

Ask Alltoys, he rode it at stock, after the machining was done and finally again after the intakes /levers and spring change

The whole this is a matched set and works together VERY WELL

Thanks

Randy

 

Its to bad the Dalton was not out yet when I bought enough EPI components to make 3 clutch kits. I do agree with lightening rotating mass...for racing. Past expirience with motortcyles tends to show a torque loss with lightening flywheels. Example, read the specs on a factory OEM ZRX1200 motor to a ZX-12R. I have no clue what would happen on an ATV. EPI makes a pretty good package. I just did not listen to there Tech support. I had to do all of this crap on my own...to actually learn and understand. However, there tech support IS extremely knowledgable. Even though they told me I may be going to light on the weights, he still listened to what I was saying and offered to take the weights in on trade ....for other used weights. I already had a stack of them. I ended up going back to heavier weights but a little lighter than the typical package. I have a free flowing full system on my P700 that tends to raise the peak HP rpm a 100rpm or so. This is a rumor and needs to be veriifed. There packaged kits really do work and are very close to what you need. They will make changes to the kit according to your specs.

Whatever pipe you chose to add, either you must dyno it or the manufacturer of the new pipe must tell you were peak HP occured. Otherwise, your going know were...fast.

 

Why aren't some of you guy with the V's, converting to Meth, for those special times you want to kick a$$.

Changing should be easy and should be a cheap Hp gain. I understand you wouldn't want it for riding, but if you know you'll be racing!! Then mix a power additive to the Meth.

 

VforceStan,
I have a stock V right now, I want to do the mods your recomending.
I like the factory stall right where it's at.
I'd like to lower the shift point.
So should I just get heavier weights?
Can you please tell me what and where to get them? Maybe a part number?

It would really help a lot.
Thanks,
Mike

 

MikeSVOR,You can get the weights from EPI and Dalton there around $125.