I just got off the phone with Ty at EPI and he confirmed everything that VforceStan has said.
Their clutch kit: AW44150 will lower the shiftout RPM to ~5900 to 6100 rpm and is exactly where the TORQUE curve is. It will also give you 1 to 2 mph up top.
It goes for 199.95 and I'm getting it.

 

EPI has conducted numerious test to tune there clutch kits. They do it real world.
Timing lights, acceleration times and a trap speed with a radar gun. This finally
convinced me.

And none of the other manufacturers do this?

Dalton races a V. Would they sell components that are counterproductive?

I wonder how many fish this thread will catch?

 

It is near the same. I had a Tach on my Vforce. I watched it while accelerating down a paved road and while it was on the dyno.
They were very close. The gravel/dirt road will show a little higher shift out due to tire slippage. BUT, a paved road, with no slippage,
will be very close.

This is why tuners(EPI) recommend that you tune the CVT 100-200rpm above your peak HP dyno reading. I agree with the dyno
statement that you'll never see actual HP. The CVT consumes alot of HP. But it is a great tool to point you in the right direction.

It was amazing when I reviewed dyno runs of sleds(CVT's) with just clutching changes. You are not only trying to hit that magic
peak number, for bragging rights, but you are trying to sustain that number over the most of the curve. I believe Dynojet.com
has some runs posted as well. Check them out.

As for the Dalton comment.....my thread's indicate no experience with Dalton. And also, it would be interesting to try it.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

You have to understand this: A modified motor that had moved it's torque and HP curve to higher rpms will benefit from a HIGHER SHIFTOUT. A STOCK engine doesn't need to be that high due to it's curve being way lower in the RPMs.
You wouldn't put a 5500 rpm stall converter in a bone stock car would you? Of course not.

 

You wouldn't put a stock converter in a drag car either.


There's a reason why all the Polaris performance companies use crank HP instead of rear wheel HP. You can't get a 1:1 ratio on a CVT because its constantly changing gears. Dyno a 5-speed in 3rd, 4th, and fifth gears and you're going to get 3 different readings. If I'm
looking for my power curve, the ONLY readings I would trust are going to be at the crank.

 

I would put the stall (shiftout point) exactly where the torque curve is, not past it.

 

there's alot of good info here, but, I have the EPI kit, with the pipes(HMF) and the snorkle(D) and its still not as fast as a modded raptor (drags, hills) or the DS (drags,hills) so I am not convinced there isnt a better solution. That is a big motor, we should be able to get MORE HP from it.

 

I have dyno'd many motorcycles. Going thru the gears, called an AG (all gear) is used for getting your main jetting correct...OK...close. IF the motor is tuned properly, that motor will make close hp numbers in gear 2 thru 4. 5th will fall off alittle but it should not severely. If it does fall off, it's usually cam timing or badly set up carbs. The curves should be slightly arc'd and even on both sides of that curve. Maybe more so on the leading edge and less on the trailing. This will indicate you are nearning a lean condition.

Roll on pulls or RO's are 4th gear runs that somewhat emulate a CVT. Its close but not a match. CVT is changing ratio's the 4th Gear RO is not. These are used for determining peak HP and Torque...Like cam shaft changes, valves, pistons and other mechanical engine mods.

Once you get to the 1/4 mile track...REAL WORLD. You bump the main jets until your MPH(trap Speed) falls off. Outside temp, track pressure and all of that fun stuff changes every minute.

 

I work with a dyno everyday, and I have ran many different bikes on it. And Vforcestan is correct in every sense. And you can get a much more accurate dyno run on a auto tranny than a manaul. In a manual you have to run it in one gear to get accurate hp/tq numbers. If you do a (AG) all gear run, you get hp spikes that are not accurate hp numbers, while on a auto you do not have that problem, it is putting its constant power to the wheels, and that also helps jetting.

 

O.K....this is a lot of info coming in. What I want to know is, wouldn't it be safe to assume that if you put in an entire clutch kit, that it would be more effective than simply changing the spring? I was thinking of ordering the clutch kit from dalton industries for my V. Anyone else tried this kit?? Also any advice on a good set of replacement bars?? Mine got a little bent, we put them back like they were but I would like to go ahead and replace them with some better (stronger) bars.