AMEN!!!

 

CRANKDOG... I don't doubt that CF&W did move the cams 1 tooth... IMO, perhaps the Force is not at optimum cam timing, for the same detuning reasons that the Prairie is... & I would suspect that 20* may be slightly past optimum, ( but we are currently, appearently nearly 20* from optimum ), however if it is easy & cheap to do, & so far has not showed signs of an interferance problem, I'd say go for it... I'd bet that with a module you'd be back, to the, close to stock ( too much wheel spin anyway ) bottom end, with much improved mid & top end power... I don't think this type of modification would be good for quads requiring greater torque ( running taller than stock tires, or trying to pull through thick gooey mud... & perhaps even climbing steep hills )

 

n2xlr8n,

What do you do for a living?

Peace,
Sgt_Rock

 

Thanks newbeattle,
That is exactly the answer I was looking for.

 

My intention was / is not a flame war. I stand corrected. I too, try to post only technical info or what I feel is relevant or correct. I was wrong in blasting off on Mickey in a public forum. You have my apologies, Mickey.

What do I do for a living? Does that matter? If you felt that I was slighting persons that sell parts for a living, you read too much into it. What I should have said was that Mickey doesn't make me feel like buying parts from him by speaking out of the side of his mouth about his competitors.

If the way I feel about the integrity of this forum (or any for that matter) means that I am a "looser", then I'm okay with you (or anyone) thinking that.

Toughness? Define toughness. Apologizing, admitting you're wrong in the face of many is one of many facets of toughness.

 

The reason I asked is that there is something underlying your relentless attacks on Mickey. It doesn't make sense based on what is discussed in the forum, so there must be something else to it - such as you competing with Micky in some capacity.

For example; someone asked about keeping the bottom end alive after cam installs and Mickey said he has high compression pistons for stock machines. Your response was to tackle him for sayng he had parts and I'm missing the controversial part or the lack of integrity.

Mickey offered to take exhanges of Prairie cams for V-Force cams, to which you respond "...I agree....but it's Mickey." Again, there is no obvious issue in Mickey's post or offer and it doesn't come across as hawking a product. Guys want cams and he's got them.

The point is that there is apparently something else winding your clock that is outside of the forum. Based on your PBR pumping, it sounds like you have a vested interest in whether Mickey sells something or not. That may not be the case, but it's the impression you leave.

You definately rose to the occasion by apologizing and you're right that it took b@lls. It would be good to get back to the ATV discussions and leave this crap out of it. Hopefully thats the direction everyone is headed.

Peace,
Sgt_Rock

 

S.ROCK... well said, although at this point, you may be leaning on N2... a little too much... I also don't know what the beef between these two forum members ( who both obviously know what they are talking about & both carry a lot of personal pride )... without digging the poop any deeper, I tried to return this thread to what it was intended to be about, by answering CRANKDOGS question as best I could... the sad thing is... that from reading both of these guy's past threads, they were both much more qualified to answer his question than I was ( & he had to ask it twice, I was waiting for someone more qualified than myself to answer it ), but instead "something" reared it's ugly head, & this "knee deep in the hoopla" is what we've got...

maybe you guy's should beat up on me awhile... ( me = thick skin, & enough common sense & self confidence to take it ), with out destroying a perfectly good thread... WAM

 

Thank you very much - apology accepted. Now lets get on to building bigger and faster machines.

 

I was just wondering if one of u guys could break if down step by step how to do the advance key trick. I was told that all PBR does is grind down a stock key. Is that true? So how do u do this?

 

To install the flywheel key... I haven't done this yet, ( will be doing it in the next few weeks, when all my parts get here )...
Drain the coolant & the engine oil...

remove as much of the lower rubber fenders ( floor board if you desire, but it is not necessary ), to be able to remove the pull starter, the radiator resovour tank, the water pump housing, the fly wheel retaining bolt ( reverse threads I think ??? ), the water pump impeller, then the fly wheel housing... BE CAREFUL WITH THE GASKETS ( BE PREPARED TO USE SILICONE, OR BETTER YET HAVE NEW GASKET TO REPLACE THE OLD ONES )... BE CAREFULL REMOVING & INSTALLING THE WATER PUMP IMPELLER...

pull the fly wheel ( you will need the "special" fly wheel puller )... it was suggested that the fly wheel be pulled with the key way on the top of the shaft...

install the key, with the beveled side towards the rear of the quad ... it has also been suggested that lock tite or a similar thread locker ( perhaps even a type of contact cement, or super glue, be used to help keep the key in place...

install the fly wheel, with it rotated to fit tightly against the beveled edge of the key... put some counter clockwise pressure on the fly wheel... the starter drive gear may help hold the fly wheel in position...

check the repair manual for torque specks for all the parts for reassembly...

BE ESPECIALLY CAREFULL WITH THE WATERPUMP IMPELLER DURING ASSEMBLY...

refill your fluids & check for leaks...

I'm sure I may have missed something, but this will give you a general idea of whats involved...

thanks to the guy's that have actually done this already, for the tips...

You can grind you're stock key, if you knew how much to remove...