I just got the end of the muff off and I am headed to Home Depot to get the 12" 3/8 bit. My ? is - does the packing need to be removed and if so, how the h@ll do you remove it? While I am out I'm picking up the twin air filter. Also, how in the world do you get to the snorkle to replace it w/ the napa part #7335? Do you need to remove most of the plactic or the air box or what? Please advise

 

remove the front plastic .


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02 650p
napa #7335
nyroc muffler
145f/148r jets
warn 2000lb
snow plow

 

There is a nice guide for the exhaust mod here.

For the snorkle, just remove the airbox. Actually, I just slid it back to get at the snorkle clamps with a long screwdriver. Then hold the snorkle up to the NAPA hose. Cut it to length similar to the stock snorkle. It can be a tad longer though. You'll have to play with cuttng a sizing a bit.

 

when doing the muffler mod are you supposed to cut off that long thnig that is attched to the end cap when you remove it?

 

I used a hole saw to get the silencer out of the tip, just like those other guys did. I didn't have a vice so I used thick (and long) welding gloves to hold it. Every time the hole saw bit in and the exhaust tip got loose from my hand, those tough gloves protected my hands and arms well. No ouches at all I think I also was wearing my thick and crappy coat too.

Dont drill too far to the outside of the muffler. Make sure that the chuck of the drill can go all the way to the baffle so that the 12" bit can go through every baffle.

After I got the silencer out, I used a rotary file (metal rasping bity thingy) on my drill to open the hole a little and smooth it out.

 

Nyroc,
FYI: I just finished with my Nyroc Modded muffler this morning (the hi-heat paint is drying on it as I type this message).

You'll recall that I recently posted my plans for slight changes to your original design on this forum as "New Twist on Nyroc Mod" Anyway, I ended up drilling 2 side by side holes (each hole was 1/2 inch wide) on top and 2 more side by side holes on bottom (all 4 were directly in line with the 2 head pipes coming into the front of the muffler).

Also, I removed the smaller (perforated) tube from the endcap while leaving in the larger (2" diameter) pipe intact. My thinking was this 2" pipe is good to keep because its pointed down at a 45 degree angle (like the original smaller pipe was) and this will help move the sound down towards the ground. I drilled about 150 to 200 tiny holes into the 2" pipe so that air could pass thru it from the underside of this angled pipe.

Also, I mounted a stainless steel wire mesh to the inside of this 2" pipe so that it would act like a home-made spark arrestor and also keep stuff out of my muffler (like small sticks, small rocks or whatever floats in the water where I ride). I had a HECK OF A TIME trying to find a stainless steel wire mesh. They don't sell it ANYWHERE near my house as most wire mesh is now sold as aluminum, brass or copper. I checked everywhere(auto parts, bbq pitt retail stores, arts and crafts places, Home Depot, Lowes, Welding and Fab shops)! I ended up using a 3" diameter Kitchen Sink Strainer piece that is supposed to mounted over the drain in the sink. They sell it at Lowes for $2 or $3 and its cone shaped (perfect!).

BTW, I took some pics during the process so you can see my changes and I plan to send them to you after I get the pics developed and scanned into my PC. What is your e-mail address?

Happy trails...[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]