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2005 Prairie 750 twin EFI, IRS

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  #21  
Old 06-12-2004, 09:53 PM
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Default 2005 Prairie 750 twin EFI, IRS

No whine means they did something different in the tranny. Saving more weight maybe?
 
  #22  
Old 06-12-2004, 09:55 PM
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Default 2005 Prairie 750 twin EFI, IRS

KAWAIGUY... On this new brute force can power slid around corners, do dough nuts, and corner at high speeds like the prairie? OR does it wanna role over like most other IRS quads? Also is the IRS stiff enough to haul say a 200lb passanger with out all the squat?
 
  #23  
Old 06-12-2004, 10:18 PM
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Default 2005 Prairie 750 twin EFI, IRS

I dont know why it doesn whine anymore..I forgot to ask!

As far as power cornering and donuts, etc......I cant give you all the answers. Has about 100 acres to ride around and for the most part, was in heavily treed areas...so I didnt try donuts. I wasnt too hard with the power sliding or curves but honestly..I dont theres an independant out there that can handle power turns and donuts like an SRA can...lets face it....an indepandent doesnt have nearl the same lower centre of gravity and thats key to power turns and slides.
I did find the steering to be easier and more responsive than the sportsman 700...and way better than the grizzly. We had people riding over 200lbs and the squat didnt seem to be a factor..of course, when they come..you should ask to have a spin on it to see for yourself.
That thing has some serious power
 
  #24  
Old 06-12-2004, 11:47 PM
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Default 2005 Prairie 750 twin EFI, IRS

I still love my Prairie, but hearing all of the improvements they made is depressing me. I guess I'll have to fab my own front A-arms out of chromoly, for now. I'll buy a Brute force when they make it 800cc[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
 
  #25  
Old 06-12-2004, 11:56 PM
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Default 2005 Prairie 750 twin EFI, IRS

I am with you on that. What do you have to do to weld chromoly? I have a mig and I have only ever welded mild steel and aluminum. Anything special about chromoly?
 
  #26  
Old 06-13-2004, 02:44 AM
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Default 2005 Prairie 750 twin EFI, IRS

Originally posted by: Customfabandweld
. I'll buy a Brute force when they make it 800cc[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

That should be next year, Kawi incresses 50cc. every year. By the year 2010 we will hit the big 1 liter yes 1000cc.
 
  #27  
Old 06-13-2004, 12:36 PM
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Default 2005 Prairie 750 twin EFI, IRS

Originally posted by: Daranello75
Originally posted by: Customfabandweld
. I'll buy a Brute force when they make it 800cc[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

That should be next year, Kawi incresses 50cc. every year. By the year 2010 we will hit the big 1 liter yes 1000cc.
True, yet unfortunate. I knew there was a reason that I sold my Grizzly. Looks like the BF is it. Still debating though.
I already have a P-700. Should I get the BF or get a spot quad (Raptor, KFX400 etc) to go w/ the 700? Decisions, decisions.........

 
  #28  
Old 06-13-2004, 12:50 PM
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Default 2005 Prairie 750 twin EFI, IRS

Sorry bbertram..I didnt answer your question on the race...

Off the dead start..in 2wd, the BF took it off the line no problem. This was on a gravel road and the boys couldnt go too far as the road turns and goes down a slope.....dont want an accident with a unit that isnt even on the market yet..hehe

I was surprised that the bf would take it off the line..but geez..that whole front end just lifts up and hauls ***....even with the timing retarded.....I'm sure once someone chips that thing, wheelies will be nothing but pinning the throttle
 
  #29  
Old 06-13-2004, 02:35 PM
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Default 2005 Prairie 750 twin EFI, IRS

Hey Nyroc. Thanks for all the info you have given me and this forum, now it's my turn[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]. Here is a link that should tell you everything you need to know. Most people use the TIG, or heliarc process, although it can be brazed. I welded on a chromoly frame for a 200MPH Harley land speed bike, and I used the heliarc process and ER-70S mild steel welding rod. People debate whether stress relieving is really needed, either by vibration or post heat treat. You should get yourself a TIG welder, at any rate, and learn to use it. I dropped the tranny from my Jeep and broke my bellhousing into 5 different pieces. With no money at the time to replace it, I just beveled all the pieces, bolted what was left of the bell to a spare engine block, and welded them back together. This tranny has been living behind a stroker 383 Chevy for 3 years now, no problems!

http://www.stripbike.com/ubb/Forum9/HTML/000340.html
 
  #30  
Old 06-13-2004, 03:38 PM
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Default 2005 Prairie 750 twin EFI, IRS

NYROC if this double arm deal is the hot set up some of us will undoubtly be retrofitting our strut machines maybe I can help your questions from experiance building race car frames and home built airframes I am glad to share this . When you weld chrome moly you need a tig welder (tunsten inert gas) a lot of shops have these( I must add the old timers use a oxy acetlyne out fit and use a brazeing tip and use RG45 Fill rod it is nothing more than coathangers this method is used even today it is even FAA certified the old timers built all airplanes this way!) but being good with one or the other is another story. When you select your chrome moly you will want 4130N. N stands for normalized, they have 4130A you dont want that because A stands for annealed. You can use A but you need to heat the whole piece to the first color change to red and let it air cool then it is normalized. I use a nickel steel fill rod bare no coating weld tech 2200 series 120,000# tensil strength or a rod compatible for moly when your ready give me a shout, When mounting these arms you will have a boat load of motion ratios to set up you will need a CAMBER CASTER gauge to keep the top of the tire in relation to the bottom ,This is Camber honda has never been able to do this for some reason on their atv's? with out the shock and springs you simply raise and lower the arms with the spindle and keep the camber close as possible through out the whole travel event changeing arm length (or adjustment)determines this, Caster is the relationship of the ball joints seeing each other forward to backward looking at the vehicle from the side this is a big big contributor to your handleing and steering stability ( top joint needs to be laid back a little 1 degree to 3 the further forward the top joint more sensitive the steering,) in other word straitup or positive caster will litterly tear the handle bars outa your hands but the steering response is more aggressive , Bumpsteer if we could get totally away from this it would make the perfect vehicle ( this is moveing one side of the suspension through the whole event and seeing how it affects the other side through the tie rod linkage.) The strutted prairie is as good as I have seen in this area. Next is akerman this is the relationship of what degree one spindle turns to the other as long as your the same legenth on where your tie rods hook up to the spindle and steering stem there should be no issue. Toe is handled at the tie rod adjustment as we all check that time to time. A good level area or jig is a must for this modification and when the 750 arrives it will be a matter of luck that the main frame is the same so we can use its arms? if we can! half the battle will be won. That would be super cool, but I have my doubts! Sorry for the long post but if these perimeters are followed you would have one handling, haul a$$ ,SRA prairie. This would be the ultimate machine with Mickeys monster motor . Our drag races are rained out again 6" of rain fri ngt and I am bummed, no I am pissed (lost 8 acres of soybeans) I changed a lot of stuff little things and cant find no where to run BLAAAAA! Hope I helped you organize some Ideas On welding and getting this front on,If you choose to do so, you been a real help for me and others figuring these prairies out to make better machine out of a already good one J.H jhmachineshop
 


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