Made the switch, I also drained and filled the front diff. with synthetic and went for a ride. Top end I hit 71 mph, previously I could only hit 69mph on the same strip of highway. I did some serious mudding this weekend and all went fine but I noticed my rubber boot on the front right side of the diff. was pulled away so I could see the green part that used to be covered. I wonder how in the heck this happened? I grabbed it and it is still tight, could not push it back on that ridge that it is supposed to be seated on. Is the best way to go at this to take off the tire and pry the band clamp off and pull the boot back on the ridge and then replace the metal clamp?

 

nutsy what brand of synthetic did you switch to. and i thiught i saw in the manual that it said you could tap the booton with a hammer softly.

 

I wish my Mobil 1 MX4T 10w-40 gave me two more mph. Heck, I would settle for 1mph.

 

kod, i run the same oil. do you put that in your front chunk as well?

___________________
02 650p
see pictures for mods

 

I dont but probably should. It may make it steer easier. I been using Castrol GTX 10w-30. I tried some old Valvoline 10w-40 and the steering was noticably harder so I switched to the 10-30 weight. I hear synthetic 10w-40 was easier to steer than conventional oil that is 10w-30 but have not seen proof of this. What oil up front do you use?

 

KOD , I am sure you are aware that full syn. oil can over time glaze your clutch pack in the front end and cause your diff lock not to work, if you get a brand made for "wet clutches" then you will be fine , I don't really know how long it would take but I have seen auto clutch atv's clutches start slipping soon after running a full syn. car oil. It is safe to run it in the engine since there is no clutch in the engine. Have a good day.

 

I used Quaker State 4x4 Synthetic blend, I figured if it exceeds the Cummins 20076 standards my little wheeler can take it[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] no but really I did put it in my front diff. as well thinking the whole time if it would be ok since it does not meet JASO MA requirements. On quaker states web site they have a list of their oils with physical and chemical properties of each. I compared their ATV oil with the stuff I used and the blend I used had a higher fire and flash point than the atv oil, viscosities were similar at some given temps. The visc. index for the atv oil is 148 and 157 for the Synth. blend. The 10W-40 Synth. blend was the closest to the ATV oil of all the other grade oils on the page, they had #'s for 5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40 and 15W-40. Maybe I should put regular atv oil in the front diff. , don't want to wreck anything. I thought the rear diff. was more finicky due to the brake being sealed in it and having to use the Mobil fluid 424? What is interesting is on the QS website it describes the benefits of ATV oil like this; Resists thinning at high temps., Helps prevent high temp. deposit formation, water, and other corrosive materials, Provides lubrication to critical engine parts. Seems to me the Synth. blend I used would do that plus be better cause of the higher fire and flash points.

 

i use kendal up front.10w-30

___________________________
02 650p
see pictures for mods

 

Is that atv oil? If not have you had any problems with your diff. lock or anything and how many miles have you put on with the oil up front? Oh one more thing, what are you doin up so late? I work nights, that is my excuse[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] Or should I say early, depends on how ya look at it I guess...

 

I use 0W-40 Amsoil for Motorcycles and ATV's. Works great with wet clutches, no friction modifiers like the dino stuff. http://www.amsoil.com/products/aff.html

Starts good in cold temps, great in 100+ degrees F here in Sac town also.

Redline and royal purple are good. Mobil 1 seems to be popular also.