anyone have any trouble breaking loose the allen head drain on the front diff on a brute force? i went to change the front diff oil but i cant budge that thing to drain it. i did the engine oil and the filter was tough to get off as well. the rear diff was a piece of cake. this was all for the initial breakin oil changes. still gotta love this thing its an ANIMAL [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

I'm not done with break in yet so I haven't touched mine, though i read on another forum of a owner having the same problem with the front diff drain. Did you try a allen socket or just a hand key ? If you haven't tried a socket that'd be my tool of choice, place in the drain plug, give it a few light taps and then break it loose with a cheater on a socket wrench or a torque wrench, anything with a long handle should do.

 

I just finished doing my first service and yes it was very hard to loosen the front drain plug. Just get a key that doesn't have play and press hard and turn. I almost stripped mine out. Just take your time so you dont strip it out.

 

An allen socket is BY FAR the best way to do it. I tried to turn mine with a Hand key and it'll never happen. I went and bought a Metric allen socket set at Oreilly's (Spelling?) I think I used the 6 mm, but I'm not 100% sure.

With the Socket it was very easy, especially with a 1/2" drive.

 

how can the front diff fluid go bad in 10 hours? I can see changing the motor oil in 10 hours the first time, but if everything is working right why would you have to change the diff oil so soon? has anyone ever done it and seen dirt or metal parts in there? I just can't imagine it needing it that soon.

 

10 hrs is just a guideline. Gears and other metal parts will leave behind shavings,etc as they break in. It is a good idea to change the front and rear diff fluid after a few hours of riding. I changed mine at 10 hrs and plan to again at around 25 hrs. This will remove any break in particles.

Changing the fluids is not expensive or hard with the right tools. It also doesn't take long. A bottle of Kawichem Brake oil for the Rear diff is like $5 and the front diff hold like .42 quarts of the same oil you use in your engine.

I just ordered 3 quarts of AMSOIL and I had plenty to change my engine oil and do the front diff.

It 's just cheap insurance and I would advise people to do it.

 

Grizzkiller, Put some muscle (Brute Force) into it. Stop being a sissy and posting silly questions on how to loosen bolts.

 

I had the dealership just do my first service and all they did was change the oil and filter. They didn't see any need to replace the diff oil etc. As long as they warranty it I could care less. I do know that on my eiger I changed my diff oils at 100 miles and had no shavings or anything at all. And on a different note I called them about the low end miss and my needle will be here Friday!!! I did have a question though for those of you who got the $69 winch deal I got my winch in 2 days but has anyone actually received their mount yet. I've seen people offering them on ebay and such I just would really prefer to not have to be plowing with my Eiger this winter cuz with the manual transmission that's a lot of shifting.

 

I guess I err on the side of **** retentiveness, but not only did I do all three fluids at 10hrs, I also did them ALL AGAIN at 600miles which is about 47 hours for me. Is it overkill? Yeah, but what can be better for the Brutey than giving it fresh fluids every 500 miles?

Nothing [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

Bottom line is that with the use and abuse that ATV's get, why chance water in the fluids or let them get dirty? I bet that years down the road mine is in 100% perfect mechanical condition and will run as good as the day it was new.

Mike

 

I agree. Is it needed? Probably not but cheap insurance. I'm fairly certain the drain is 5mm, will check if anybody needs the info. Don't waste yor time with the allen keys, get a socket it will come out easy.