Looking at nyrocs idea, I started thinking.
I am considering drilling 6-8 3/8" holes- From the outside to the bottom, about 18". Then use either stainless machine bolts, or hex-head pipe plugs to close the holes that would be otherwise exposed. I could leave them out, or put them in as suited.
It would be easier for me than chopping the end off. If I went that route, I'd just take the end of the exhaust system off so I could use my metal bandsaw to cut and then far easier to get a decent weld completely around rather than risk burning something back there.

Ideas? Discuss- see any problems? I'm thinking it would work, unless theres some critical mod to the end cap itself.
(I could stick weld the holes closed, but I like the idea of being able to "tune" it by closing them off or open)


If the majority thinks this would work cleanly I'll do it, take pics the whole process and report back. Someone could host them if they want.

CWG

 

Would you thread the holes in the end cap, or knock out the center, & try to get a nut started on the inside ???

 

After drilling the holes, i'd tap the back and thread in slightly bigger cap screws or similar, it would look (in my minds eye) like the back of a super trapp exhaust

 

aside from the cap screws loosening, possibly stripping out, throught the thinner steel & the additional weight, it should work fine, IMO...

 

I tell ya, after looking at the photos, it looks like that metal in the end cap is .200 or better, that would hold a thread.
I'm hoping Nyroc or or KOD visits the thread.

 

This can be done. Don at Diamond G Racing has made on like you are talking about a few years ago. You should call him up and talk with him about it. (714) 299-3865

 

I gave up on the idea of simply drilling from the back- it occured to me two things- first the shavings from the drilling would rust, maybe speed up the muff needing replaced. Second, the actual opening would still be small.
So, I got a sawsall and removed the rear end. 6; 1/2" holes, removed the back of the exhaust and drilled it open.
Now...I'm going to do something different, I'll post pics in a day or so.
CWG

 

bwa haha just be prepared to get an HMF if in fact u should mess something up!

Then just report back to me and tell me how u like that thing...

 

I'm having a bit of headaches finding the right pieces. but...its a 12' glasspack (1 3/4 inlet), two 45 degree pipes.
I'll have a right turn off the back of the factory modded piece, the glasspack or resonator (depending on what fits) and then the turn down. Just screwing around holding a 2" 2 foot long exhaust pipe over the back WHAT a sound, I'm digging it.

 

Ok, I'm done for now. Details in my bios section- pics will load later on-
but heres one CWGMOD
I can tell you, the bottom end is greatly improved with more even backpressure I'm guessing. The nyroc mod was too loud, and I had a stumble on takeoff- thats gone.
Its way more quiet than the Nyroc mod alone- almost as quiet, maybe more, than stock!
It will pull a wheelie now in low, rolling about 3-4mph, it will try and flip over on a hill if your not careful- that it wouldn't do stock.
I'm real happy with the results. It should baffle nice when under water-
Bike is bone stock except for Napa hose mod.
On the Nyroc mod, when you cut out the internal baffle and toss it out- I saved that and rewelded it back on the end pipe for the spark arrestor- I didn't put any screening in the inside of the factory muff.
The pipe is behind the rack, so I can back up into something, so far it seems ok for trail work. We'll see. Total cost, including welding? 35.00, that includes the welding of the stock muffler (10.00) Pipes and hanger (15.00) final weld (10.00)