The service manual is on back oder, do I have to remove the rear pulley? That seems to be the obivious choice. The belt is to tight to pull over the pulley. Any suggestions are appreciated.

 

Removing the back pully is best. You normally can unbolt it and it slides off without a puller. I have seen some change the belt without removing the pullys by starting it over the pully and rotating the front pully and walking it off. It is not recommended, but it will work and I have not really seen a problem with the belts after it was done by a few I'v seen. Best to remove rear pully and check your deflection.

 

the proper way to take the belt off is to remove the front pulley, which requires a special bolt puller. the way most of us do it is to slip the belt over the back pulley when rotating it. it can be a little tricky to do but it is effective. when you change the belt you will have to check the deflection as well, just because its a new belt it doent mean you will wright on. and to change deflection you need a special spring compressor. i never tryed to take the rear pulley off to get to the belt.

jsut thought you would like to know.

 

Thanks, I think I'll go with the rear pulley, Why would I have to check deflection on an OEM belt?

 

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Randy
Machines come from factory with shims. Guess belt may be to thight without shims. Best bet is to put belt on and check your deflection.

Some machines have the 1.4 shim and some has the .8 +.6 installed. I just did a belt adjustment at 350 miles on my 02 Prairie and I had the 1.4 shim installed. So, I purchased and installed th .6 Shim. Next time by belt chirps or when I need to adjust again I'll remove the .6 and run without shim until belt is out of specs or worn out.

The hardest part for me was getting the the snap ring on and off the Secondary Clutch. Buy you a set of steel snap ring pliers from O'riley auto parts $9 (came in set of 4) Go to Kissodeath or Nyroc's website for directions of clutch spring removal tool (2" PCV Cap, 1/2" x 12" threaded bolt stock, three 1 1/2 Flat washers snd three 1/2" Nuts for the threated stock). You Can make it for less than $8 and you'll need a vise to secure your tool. If you are contemplating doing routine clutch maintenance, the primary clutch removal tool is a good investment.

The easiest way to remove the the secondary clutch is to put a 12" 3/8 drive ratchet in the hole of one of the holes in the pully, brace the opposite end of pully against frame. using a breaker bar to put tension on the ratchet by loosening nut. Once tension is on the end of the rachet, break the bolt loose with the breaker bar. If you dont have the Metric a standard socket (15/16 or 1 1/6 one will fit just forgot the size) will work. Note the direction of the washers behind the nut on the secondary pulley, they are dimpled and go a specific direction. Also, note the direction of your belt and mark your secondary pulleys with a marker for alignment purposes before you remove the 4 retaining buttons. All parts go back in reverse of how they came off.

I took the primary clutch off first and slid the primary clutch under the belt. The secondary will slide off after the nut and washers are removed. I didn't try removing the secondary pulley first with belt attached to see if belt would slide off easier than removing primary first. Think the shaft is longer on the Secondary than the Primary & may not be eaiser?

If you decide to remove the Primary Clutch first, Remember the threads are reverse threaded. The tool for removing primary after the bolt is removed cost around $40 delivered and has standard threads. Purchased mine from Ritter Cycle Racing.

You can't go wrong learning to do maintence yourself, the dealer wanted $35 just to put a shim in with the secondary pulley removed and handed to them and nearly $200 for belt adjustment if they did the whole job. Told them they were on "Crack." I'd do it myself and did. Cost me around $70 in parts, thats including the Primary clutch removal tool. The Shims for the secondary clutch are $5 each.

Happy trails[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

Randy, the primary clutch removal tool should be used to eliminate any possible damage to the belt when trying to slip it over the rear pulley. A loose belt can be easily slipped over the rear pulley but a good tight one can possibly cause damage.

Belts are not all the same size in width and length. This is why different spacers are needed by Kawi to set the proper deflection on the belt from the factory. Unless your belt is damaged I suggest checking the deflection and adjusting your current belt as needed by removing the spacers. This will save you some money and is actually what the spacers are for.

If you dont want to remove the front pulley to change the deflection or belt then I would suggest doing what I used to do and finding a piece of wood that is proper size and inserting it in the rear pulley to make it wider and easier to get off and especially back on. I have a few belt adjustment pictures on my site to take the mystery out of this if you want to see them.

 

I just replaced my stock belt with the p700 belt. When I measured the deflection it was on the very low side of the spec, about 20mm. It does not chirp on take off and it dosen't creep when stopped.

Should I add some shims to put it into proper specs or is it alright the way it is? Can anything negative happen by running the belt in the low end of the spec. I know that a loose belt is very bad but what about a tight one?

 

You are in excellent shape sliffstar. Mine is the same why, maybe a little tighter.

 

Tight is good[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img]