Without that little pink wire not hooked up the cdi will not be able to advance the timing at higher rpms your performance will be grossly hampered. If you have a red spring in your machine it will negate the benefits of the module. Also if your module does not work try talking with manufacturer I am very sure they will send you a new one!!

 

you must have somthing wired wrong i installed mine and it was the best money ive spent it pulls weelies easier than my kfx 700 does not seem to do any thing for top end i put a cdi on my kfx 700 and it did absolutely nothing in timed runs drag races or any thing else worthless so i was skeptical on buying this module but it is the best thing ive ever used

 

It makes 6-7HP from idle to about 7MPH, then the module contributes nothing. Doesn't matter who's you buy, the Mitsubishi CDI can't be tricked into giving more HP from a simple module.

The switch just switches the module back to stock form. You can take any module and hook a switch to it. You need a SPDT (single pole, double throw switch). Wire the pink wire going to the CDI to the center terminal of the switch, and then wire the module to one outside terminal of the switch, and the other end of the pink wire to the other outside terminal of the switch. So, in one position, the speedo feeds the CDI with the actual speed, in the other position, the module feeds the speedo with a "faster speed" to fool it into thinking it's going over 7MPH....

 

Well I can definitly tell a difference from 0-55 mph w/ the DG5 on and off. Dyno charts clearly show the 6-7 rwhp gain to be had around 25 mph and it continues to provide around 3 rwhp up to about 55 mph. This is true for the DG5 or HL ICM.

The DG5 only helped w/ about 1 rwhp above 55 mph... but DG5 clearly states that this Module is mainly for low end and mid range. They told me it wouldn't hurt top end, but really wouldn't help it either. A 1 rwhp gain is a gain none the less so I'm pleased.

 

Problem is you can't really Dyno a CVT tranny. You need to have a fixed 1:1 final drive ratio to get a *REAL* dyno graph. With the CVT, the final drive changes continuously.

It's impossible to get more HP above the 7 MPH mark. The CDI only has a binary normal/retard mode at the 7 MPH mark. If you're above 7MPH, it uses normal timing, if you're below, it retards it. I've hooked an oscilloscope to the crank trigger and spark plugs, and you can't get more HP than Mitsubishi designed into it. All you can do is remove the safety low speed retard.

With a module on, you have a way harder launch, and you have more power at the bottom, and they conveys itself to feeling like more power throughout the band, but it just isn't there.

 

Wires,
Has hit it dead on the head, a module will only produce what the intended cdi already has. That is why most manufacturers will tell everyone to install a degree key so the key will offset the short comings of the module. The module ( everyone's ) advances the to max timing of 28* just past idle till it hits 6500 rpm where the cdi retards timing down to 18* at a supposed 8500 rpm. There is nothing wrong with a module but when you add in the expense of installing a key then you may as well get a cdi as the cost will be less. All you have to do is unplug the old one and plug in the new one.

 

I agree.....I have had the module and now the Dyna CDI, and the harder hit ( instant timing ramp up) of the module makes the seat of the pants feeling greater, but the CDI is the only one out that add's timing (33 degree's) all the modules, ALL of them only provide 28 which is what the stock CDI is programmed with..........

 

@bbertram
I have been to your sites and your movies are great [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img].
Keep up the good work.
But i have a question.
I have seen your brute in your movies but wich mods do you have on your brute force.
I've seen that you have maxxis 8-spoke wheels but wich cdi, clutch, jet kit, airfilter , exhaust do you have?
greetzzz

 

The pink wire comes from the speed sensor and tells the CDI how fast the machine is moving. If the wire is disconnected, the CDI will think you aren't moving, and will keep the timing retarded by about 18 degrees (read as really low horsepower). Usually, this is the case until 7MPH, but in your case, it'll be gutless throughout the entire power band.