Could somebody remind me what to flush and not to flush your front differential with? I'm in the process and don't want to waste oil to flush with when it won't really get the water out that well.

Was it Kerosene or was it Deisel that I should use?

Thanks in advance,

 

I remember you were changing axles, so if you've got it apart anyway, its not much more to pull the diff out of the frame and pop the clutch pak cover off to clean it. I thought i flushed mine good but it was still full of crap when I took it apart. The clutch pack is quite separated from the rest of the diff, hard to flush it effectively.

 

Most people use diesel to flush with.

 

Thanks gentlemen,

Yes, I have my axles out, I had to order an inner CV for the otherside, the ***** just fell out and the cup was cracked, so now I have to wait a little longer to get her back together. I got mud in it once with a ripped boot and replaced the ***** already.

If I flushed it with Diesel would I need to take it out to do the clutch pack? I have a bad back and it's hard enough on me to do the axles.

Did you guys notice how far those struts drop? I believe they drop much further than A-arms, I wonder if that's helping us in the mud and if it's the reason for the CV's ripping out once and awhile? I noticed that the A-arms are actually resting on my aluminum skids that I bought from Kawi. I could actually get them to drop lower by making a groves so they will settle more (the skids are holding them up)but wondering if I should. I might just stick up the factory skid to see if it hits or hold them back. The new gorilla's should handle the full drop?

I might be able to make a better mudder out of her by getting the A-Arms to drop more,

 

The problem with getting only halfshafts is that the stock inner jt will have problems with the amount of "drop" the suspension will give with a lift. The stock inner jt's just don't allow enough angle, hence the cracked cup you found. Running springs and a lift on the front will have increased your cv angles significantly from stock. What will start to happen is the inner jt becomes the limiting factor in how far the strut will droop and it can't take it for long.

On mine, with the ball jts in place, I can't push it down far enough to hit the skids. If I undo the bottom ball jt, it drops another 2" or so(at the ball jt end). If you're getting that much travel with the ball jt hooked up, there is no way the inner jts will hold up for long, tho that will depend on how you ride also.

 

If I didn't spend so much money already I would have bought the upper Gorilla CV's too, if I break another I will be doing so.

I want to keep my lift.

I will be watching out from now on about coming on to her when the wheels are hanging in the ruts, they are at their extreme then and that's when I blew my lower CV out. As soon as I grabbed the differential lever, crunch, crunch, crunch.

 

Shoulda gone with Axle System, full shaft for $450cdn each.

 

Live & learn,

I believe your right, the right gorilla was severely tight to get the upper CV joint on, I had to sand down the spline in order to get it on which took about 4 tries until I got it. (SCARY) I thought I was going to have to send it back.

2. The C clips that hold on the upper CV were of a different size and none supplied, I had to get two.

3. The Axles are a different size and two of my clamps that hold the boots tight will not fit, none supplied.

4. Last but not least, there was NO stickers.(lol)

I would have gotten the Axles systems but they said they wanted my old ones first, I can still sell them this way so that makes it cheaper in the end. Somebody said that you didn't have to turn yours in but that's not what their web site says.

Oh well, I will be back together soon hopefully, soon as I find some damn boot clamps.