When, and if, to switch to synthetic
#1
When, and if, to switch to synthetic
I bought a new 2006 BF 650. It has 200km and is ready for its first service. My dealer tells me, and I trust him, to switch to synthetic now. What bothers me is that I followed this advise on my 2002 650 Prairie and it was burning oil ( a little not a lot) at 4000km ( of coarse there could have been other factors involved). I dunno...what to do ...please advise...Oh, Kawi oil only, of coarse...
#4
When, and if, to switch to synthetic
I did my first service this weekend (BF 750i). Here is what I used. By the way, I did a huge amount of research to make these decisions. I found a web site all about oil filters (http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html). Another about ATV oil (http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/moto...il.html#WYRNTK), and I cross referenced the rear diff oil.
For engine and front differential (Wal-Mart) - Shell Rotella T 5w-40. This has the proper API rating for our quads. Do NOT use regular auto oil. They do NOT match the API rating, or at least most do not. (One gallon for $15)
Engine oil filter (Advanced Auto or Auto Zone) - Purolator PureONE PL14612. Rated as best oil filter along with the Bosch. ($5.88 w/tax)
Rear differential (Wal-Mart) - Supertech Heavy Duty Tractor Hydraulic & Transmission oil. This is specified as useable for wet brakes. (2 gallons for $11)
I hope this helps. After all my research I feel comfortable with this advice. But, if all else fails, you can't go wrong with genuine Kawasaki oil and filter and lubricants.
For engine and front differential (Wal-Mart) - Shell Rotella T 5w-40. This has the proper API rating for our quads. Do NOT use regular auto oil. They do NOT match the API rating, or at least most do not. (One gallon for $15)
Engine oil filter (Advanced Auto or Auto Zone) - Purolator PureONE PL14612. Rated as best oil filter along with the Bosch. ($5.88 w/tax)
Rear differential (Wal-Mart) - Supertech Heavy Duty Tractor Hydraulic & Transmission oil. This is specified as useable for wet brakes. (2 gallons for $11)
I hope this helps. After all my research I feel comfortable with this advice. But, if all else fails, you can't go wrong with genuine Kawasaki oil and filter and lubricants.
#5
#6
When, and if, to switch to synthetic
I agree with using Rotella syn. at the first oil change. Of course Rotella isn't a true synthetic, but it is an excellent lubricant and it doesn't cost near as much as the "true synthetics". I have had good luck with the Bosch 3323 and the Pure One 14610 in my Brute. These are the longer filters, so you get a little extra oil capacity and increased filter media.
#7
When, and if, to switch to synthetic
Switich now and dont worrie. Look at it this way The new corvetts have Synthetic right off the show room floor, so do most High dollar Sportscars. There goes the old theroy of having to use regular oil for break-ins[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img]
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#9
When, and if, to switch to synthetic
quote "Switich now and dont worrie. Look at it this way The new corvetts have Synthetic right off the show room floor, so do most High dollar Sportscars. There goes the old theroy of having to use regular oil for break-ins
should we assume that these cars are built to closer tolerances from the factory and require less break-in?
should we assume that these cars are built to closer tolerances from the factory and require less break-in?
#10