Any significant problems with the 2005 750 Brute Force
#11
05-26-2007, 11:54 AM
Any significant problems with the 2005 750 Brute Force
Here's what I've done to mine...
1. If you have problems with a low to mid speed miss...installed a K&N or Dynojet jet and needle kit. The factory fix with help it a little, but you may still have it. The Dynojet kit will fix it for sure, and you'll end up with extra jets for any rejetting you might want to do later...like if you buy a pipe or something.
2. Remove and loctite all engine mount bolts. They are famous for coming loose from the factory. These bolts coming loose can lead to the problem listed in #3 below and others.
3. Because of problem number two above, the loose engine wiggling around will very likely cause the rubber boots between the carbs and the engine to tear. This is very hard to see from the outside. Some folks have chosen to replace them with short pieces of radiator hose. I found that part of the problem (in addition to the engine mounts being loose) is that the aluminum flange the boots slide over on the engine side can come with a very sharp edge which aids in cutting the boots. File/grind/sand this sharp edge down, replace the boots, loctite and tighten the engine mount bolts and you are not likely to have this problems again.
4.If you buy the Warn winch deal (or any other with a remote solenoid), put the solenoid pack under the seat where the little tool kit should go...then shorten the big wires using proper crimped and soldered terminals. The shorter wires mean less resistance and that always helps. Having the solenoid under the seat keeps it from being hit and it's out fo the weather too. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DRILL ALL THE WAY THROUGH TO YOUR GAS TANK WHEN MOUNTING THE SOLENOID THIS WAY. It's a bitch to get to....I've heard...
5. IMHO, the VDI Copperhead ignition module is the best. Most of the modules you'll see for about $100 only effect the very low end. The Copperhead allows for almost infinite ignition tuning throughout the whole ignition curve with two curves available via a switch on the bike. The only other one I considered was the Dynatech and I heard way too many bad things about them. They had a bunch of them have problems (they just died) early on and then they are also notorious for causing a miss in the Brute Force models that I've never heard of anyone conclusively fixing. The Copperhead is worth the extra bucks. Read the installation module, take a look at the website and the tech and install info on there and use the information when you go to install it. Sealing your coils like it says to do on the website is definitely necessary in this part of the woods...
6. If you have bigger than stock tire, or are a bigger (or smaller) than average person, clutching will get you the most noticeable performance gains over almost any non engine invasive thing you can do. I went with a Dalton kit, but EPI and others are good too. Daltons kit did not require doing anything to the secondary clutch for my application, some others do. For my needs, the advantages of messing with the secondary where not worth the effort.
7. Wider aftermarket wheels and tires will make a huge difference in the machines handling and is almost mandatory.
8. Replace the stock anti-sway bar bushings with Pro-Thane bushings. Most auto parts stores will have a universal set that will fit with little or now modification.
9. Although I have not heard of others having this problem, I suspect some might have. I somehow managed to break one of the tie rod end type devices that connects my anti-sway bar to the rear arms. I replaced both of mine with a combination of 3/8" male and female tie-rod ends that I got from McMaster Carr four about $30 (for all four). Then I got an inner-tube from a motorcycle and made rubber boots around both of them with zip-ties securing each end. They've been working very well and it was much cheaper than buying the replacements from Kawi... Should be stronger too as the originals were partially plastic.
10. Disassemble and lubricate (use synthetic marine grease) all of your A-arm bearings ASAP. I found mine to have almost no lubrication on them from the factory and when I posted this on the forums (online) a ton of people replied that they had too.
11. When changing the front diff oil, be carefull what you use...especially if you are going synthetic. Some synthetics have additives in them that will render your limited slip front diff almost useless. You must make sure the oil has a certain designation which I can't remember off the top of my head. If not, you front end will slip hopelessly ever with the diff-lock on. Search the NYROC site for threads on synthetic oil and front diff oil in the Brute Force section and you'll find all the info you need.
12. If your quad does not have the inner fender guard kit in the front wheel wells, and ever if it does...get some inner-tube type rubber (available in sheets cheap from McMaster Carr and surround the area in front of the air box with the rubber and some zip ties. Once again, search the NYROC site for more info and pics on this... You will suck water if you don't do this. The only other option is to go the snorkel route...and I didn't want to loose my front rack space so I haven't done that.
13. Buy aftermarket aluminum skid plates. They are spendy, but a much have. Unless your name is Grandma and you ride accordingly, you will mess up your quad without them. I went with Ricochet brand and have been very happy with them. Buy the whole set..... DON'T buy the Kawi ones.they are garbage and WAY over priced at that.
14. To get more fuel into your tank, get into the habit of pulling that white plastic insert thing out of your gas tank fill nozzle when you fill up. You will add as much as a gallon or more to your tank and really extend your range. I have found that most of the time I get about 60 miles per tank. It depends substantially on how I'm riding however. It's right at the point where carrying at least an extra gallon is a must. I made a mounting bracket to carry one of those Fuel-Paks (3.2 gallons) on my front rack. I have it on there almost all of the time. It helps keep the front end down a bit..... BTW, the Velcro straps that those fuel-paks come with didn't make it through one ride down at TSF....they are worthless.
I also chose to add onto my front rack both to give my headlights some side protection, and to make a wider platform to protect the fuel-pak. It's a good idea and works well on both accounts. I'd have to show you pics to describe it any further. Headlights are $85 and the bulbs are really ONLY available through Kawasaki and can range from $15 to $27 depending on the dealer.
15. Buy or download (search NYROC and Highlifter forums) a Kawasaki shop manual. It will answer many questions.
16. Buy only Kawasaki brand belts. Strangely enough they are the best and will last the longest.
17. Disassemble, clean and lubricate your 4WD and KEBC actuators about once a year. This will extend their life dramatically. Consult shop manual or you can really mess up the installation. It is not exactly as simple as it might look.
18. Clean the heck out of your radiator whenever you wash your quad. They are hard to get clean and tend to clog up and lead to overheating.
19. Add a backup light and use a relay driven off of the reverse switch circuit. Don't try to drive a backup light off of the reverse switch circuit itself, use a relay with fused power from the battery. The reasons should be obvious.
1. If you have problems with a low to mid speed miss...installed a K&N or Dynojet jet and needle kit. The factory fix with help it a little, but you may still have it. The Dynojet kit will fix it for sure, and you'll end up with extra jets for any rejetting you might want to do later...like if you buy a pipe or something.
2. Remove and loctite all engine mount bolts. They are famous for coming loose from the factory. These bolts coming loose can lead to the problem listed in #3 below and others.
3. Because of problem number two above, the loose engine wiggling around will very likely cause the rubber boots between the carbs and the engine to tear. This is very hard to see from the outside. Some folks have chosen to replace them with short pieces of radiator hose. I found that part of the problem (in addition to the engine mounts being loose) is that the aluminum flange the boots slide over on the engine side can come with a very sharp edge which aids in cutting the boots. File/grind/sand this sharp edge down, replace the boots, loctite and tighten the engine mount bolts and you are not likely to have this problems again.
4.If you buy the Warn winch deal (or any other with a remote solenoid), put the solenoid pack under the seat where the little tool kit should go...then shorten the big wires using proper crimped and soldered terminals. The shorter wires mean less resistance and that always helps. Having the solenoid under the seat keeps it from being hit and it's out fo the weather too. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DRILL ALL THE WAY THROUGH TO YOUR GAS TANK WHEN MOUNTING THE SOLENOID THIS WAY. It's a bitch to get to....I've heard...
5. IMHO, the VDI Copperhead ignition module is the best. Most of the modules you'll see for about $100 only effect the very low end. The Copperhead allows for almost infinite ignition tuning throughout the whole ignition curve with two curves available via a switch on the bike. The only other one I considered was the Dynatech and I heard way too many bad things about them. They had a bunch of them have problems (they just died) early on and then they are also notorious for causing a miss in the Brute Force models that I've never heard of anyone conclusively fixing. The Copperhead is worth the extra bucks. Read the installation module, take a look at the website and the tech and install info on there and use the information when you go to install it. Sealing your coils like it says to do on the website is definitely necessary in this part of the woods...
6. If you have bigger than stock tire, or are a bigger (or smaller) than average person, clutching will get you the most noticeable performance gains over almost any non engine invasive thing you can do. I went with a Dalton kit, but EPI and others are good too. Daltons kit did not require doing anything to the secondary clutch for my application, some others do. For my needs, the advantages of messing with the secondary where not worth the effort.
7. Wider aftermarket wheels and tires will make a huge difference in the machines handling and is almost mandatory.
8. Replace the stock anti-sway bar bushings with Pro-Thane bushings. Most auto parts stores will have a universal set that will fit with little or now modification.
9. Although I have not heard of others having this problem, I suspect some might have. I somehow managed to break one of the tie rod end type devices that connects my anti-sway bar to the rear arms. I replaced both of mine with a combination of 3/8" male and female tie-rod ends that I got from McMaster Carr four about $30 (for all four). Then I got an inner-tube from a motorcycle and made rubber boots around both of them with zip-ties securing each end. They've been working very well and it was much cheaper than buying the replacements from Kawi... Should be stronger too as the originals were partially plastic.
10. Disassemble and lubricate (use synthetic marine grease) all of your A-arm bearings ASAP. I found mine to have almost no lubrication on them from the factory and when I posted this on the forums (online) a ton of people replied that they had too.
11. When changing the front diff oil, be carefull what you use...especially if you are going synthetic. Some synthetics have additives in them that will render your limited slip front diff almost useless. You must make sure the oil has a certain designation which I can't remember off the top of my head. If not, you front end will slip hopelessly ever with the diff-lock on. Search the NYROC site for threads on synthetic oil and front diff oil in the Brute Force section and you'll find all the info you need.
12. If your quad does not have the inner fender guard kit in the front wheel wells, and ever if it does...get some inner-tube type rubber (available in sheets cheap from McMaster Carr and surround the area in front of the air box with the rubber and some zip ties. Once again, search the NYROC site for more info and pics on this... You will suck water if you don't do this. The only other option is to go the snorkel route...and I didn't want to loose my front rack space so I haven't done that.
13. Buy aftermarket aluminum skid plates. They are spendy, but a much have. Unless your name is Grandma and you ride accordingly, you will mess up your quad without them. I went with Ricochet brand and have been very happy with them. Buy the whole set..... DON'T buy the Kawi ones.they are garbage and WAY over priced at that.
14. To get more fuel into your tank, get into the habit of pulling that white plastic insert thing out of your gas tank fill nozzle when you fill up. You will add as much as a gallon or more to your tank and really extend your range. I have found that most of the time I get about 60 miles per tank. It depends substantially on how I'm riding however. It's right at the point where carrying at least an extra gallon is a must. I made a mounting bracket to carry one of those Fuel-Paks (3.2 gallons) on my front rack. I have it on there almost all of the time. It helps keep the front end down a bit..... BTW, the Velcro straps that those fuel-paks come with didn't make it through one ride down at TSF....they are worthless.
I also chose to add onto my front rack both to give my headlights some side protection, and to make a wider platform to protect the fuel-pak. It's a good idea and works well on both accounts. I'd have to show you pics to describe it any further. Headlights are $85 and the bulbs are really ONLY available through Kawasaki and can range from $15 to $27 depending on the dealer.
15. Buy or download (search NYROC and Highlifter forums) a Kawasaki shop manual. It will answer many questions.
16. Buy only Kawasaki brand belts. Strangely enough they are the best and will last the longest.
17. Disassemble, clean and lubricate your 4WD and KEBC actuators about once a year. This will extend their life dramatically. Consult shop manual or you can really mess up the installation. It is not exactly as simple as it might look.
18. Clean the heck out of your radiator whenever you wash your quad. They are hard to get clean and tend to clog up and lead to overheating.
19. Add a backup light and use a relay driven off of the reverse switch circuit. Don't try to drive a backup light off of the reverse switch circuit itself, use a relay with fused power from the battery. The reasons should be obvious.
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