Ok guys I have a 02 650 prairie with about 1800 miles... I keep the oil changed and the filter cleaned on a regular basis. I just put on a new OEM belt with the clutch puller. As i took the clutch off i didn't mark it in a way to put it back on the exact way I took it off so I just put it back on... will that cause a balance problem? another think where do I put the clutch fluid when putting it back on??? I didn't use anything when putting it back on b/c I didn't know where I would apply this lube to.

Last question... I am now hearing a pinging noise as i'm in gear and it gets faint as I speed up or get on the accelerator... The noise sounds like it's coming from the air filter box or somewhere near it... anyone got any clue about that one?

Thanks for all your help..

Nick

 

"As i took the clutch off i didn't mark it"
Should be OK but if you want to be sure... Place quad on the lift, wheels are off the ground, secure the quad. Put in gear and rev up. Observe converters for any abnormal shaking/vibration.

"where do I put the clutch fluid"
You have 1800 miles. I would apply grease on spider and ramp/sliding pin area on drive converter and bushing of the driven converter. Also, check/clean the bearing (not serviceable? but try to spray in white lithium grease) on driver converter cover plate.

"pinging noise"
Adjusted valve clearance lately? I would do every 50 hrs of run time. If you are sure the noise is from air box, that's more than likely the intake backfire due to lean condition. Check for any air leak in the air intake system. Also, test ride with the choke at slightly on position. If the noise goes away, yes, it is too lean.

 

ok .. well there isn't no vibration or shaking so I think that is fine... but i noticed when pulling out in High Gear the clutch feels different ... maybe the belt don't grab as good or it may just be me.. but it don't do it in low... i can pop it up on a wheelie in low...

what is a spider and ramp/sliding pin area? and the bushings? and where is the drive converter plate?

I've never had the valve's adjusted... i'm going to have to get someone to do that... I have a K N filter coming since I have just cleaned the air filter and not never have changed it. What to you mean by it is too "lean". And if the noise goes away with a lil choke what should I do? Drive it like that?
Could it be that I use 87 octane gas and not 93?

Thanks for your help... I appreciate it!

Nick

 

I suggest that you get a Kawi's service manual if you want to do the maintenance work by yourself CORRECTLY - that would be the BEST investment you would ever make on your 650. Meanwhile, here we go:

CVT balancing - if you didn't feel or see (w/ CVT cover off) shaking/vibration, no sweat. You are good to go. But, where did you set the belt deflection at? I would set it at around 24~25 mm with 13 lbf applied in the middle of the top of the belt.

Spider is the 4-prong piece located between the movable sheave and the clutch plate (with bearing in the middle where EBC actuator finger is pressing against). The coverters open and close by the centrifugal force as RPM changes. Drive converter has the ramp weight and the pin - apply grease there. Driven converter shaft has spiral slot on its shaft - apply grease there. And the bushing is on the both converter shaft on both front(drive) and rear (driven).
When I said too lean, I was referring to air/fuel ratio. For gasoline fuel, the stoichiometric air/fuel mixture is approximately 14.7 times the mass of air to fuel (i.e. 14.7 gram of air to 1.0 gram of fuel). Any mixture less than 14.7 to 1 is considered to be a rich mixture, any more than 14.7 to 1 is a lean mixture - given perfect (ideal) "test" fuel (gasoline consisting of solely n-heptane and iso-octane). If A/F ratio is too high/too lean, such as when ambient temp is cold and the air molecule is really densed, you may hear popping noise (that's the sound of uncontrolled air/fuel explosion) from the air box area coming throuh the carb throat. When you apply a slight choke, you are providing an extra fuel to richen up (there is no actual "choke" butterfly valve) the air/fuel ratio - for testing purpose only. No, don't drive like that - you may foul the plugs. You may raise a jet needle one click or two on the carb. Your quad is designed to run safely with 87 octane. Using 93 is OK but not necessary on good runnin bike and would be wasting $. I forgot to mention, if you have too much carbon built up in the combustion chamber, that would cause pinging.

I don't know your mechanical skill or background, but you can do all these if you put time into it to learn. But you really need the factory service manual to do the job right. Good luck.

 

I haven't posted here in a long time, but this necessitates it:
1: DO NOT put oil or grease ANYWHERE on the drive (primary) clutch! It's designed to run dry. The secondary (driven) clutch does need a tiny bit of grease in the helix where the pins are and a little on the bushing; you need to disassemble the secondary in order to apply the grease because you should clean all the old grease out first.
2. The primary clutch can go back on the crank in any position; it is not balanced on the crankshaft as an assembly, you could not have gotten it out of balance.
3. The pinging noise you hear is the clutch hitting the belt cover or the back of the engine case; I will assume that you did not use a torque wrench when you put the primary clutch back on and torqued the bolt to 67lbs? Pull the clutch back off and use a torque wrench this time.

There's lots of good advice on forums, and lots of questionable stuff also.
Try Kawieriders some time.... it's all Kawi all the time, and almost all great advice and tips.

 

Service manual instructs that you need to apply grease in the DRIVE converter spider/ramp area, but you need to be careful NOT to drip grease any where belt may come in contact with the converter sheave - this is to prevent belt slippage.

 

Not in my P650 manual.
Oil or grease in any area that's subject to dust will quickly become fully contaminated and eventually cause parts to wear prematurely and stop moving. Anywhere inside the belt cover is full of dust, and as the area you mention is completely unprotected from the environment inside the cover, the grease would have an extremely short life. You would need to pull the clutch off every couple of hundred miles, wash it down and re-grease it.
Are you sure that's not a snowmobile manual you're looking at?