750 Brute Force clutch questions
#1
750 Brute Force clutch questions
I'm sure this has been asked before but I need some information from people who know. I currently own Arctic cat atv's and have absolutely no problems with them. I recently rode a new Bruteforce 750I and loved the power and now want to buy one in the next few weeks. I asked the dealer about the belts/clutch systems and he told me that if I am a mudder where I throttle down often i will eat the belt quickly and that I will need to put a clutch kit in it. This actually stopped me from buying the atv for now. Are there problems with the Bruteforce clutches and does a clutch kit need to be installed. I will be placing 26 maybe 27 inch mudbugs on the atv once I purchase it. All he also said if I bought the 650 the clutch will not be an issue. How would the Brute Force compare to Arctic cat as far as handling. I really wna the Brute force. Anyone have information? Thanks
#2
750 Brute Force clutch questions
Budmud, if you are adding 26 or 27" tires, you are getting into a clutch issue. Over sized, aggressive tires will be hard on belts. Especially, when you are getting power from the best big bore on the market. I have 750i and with 28" Perillies, I have a lot of tire to turn. I got a Dalton Clutch Kit and I am happy with it. 1000 Km on the belt. Dalton Clutch is a wise $250 investment.
#3
750 Brute Force clutch questions
Full blown clutch kits from Dalton or EPI become neccesary when adding 28" or larger tires to a BF650 or 750. Up to 27" just primary and secondary spring changes work fine by themselves. Almond secondary and Maroon primary are the favored set up. Spring changes are easy on the Brutes, with the proper tools. OEM stock Kawi belts are the only way to go. Ive never heard anything good about any of the aftermarket belts.
A couple of small things most people dont do when working on clutches. 1st of all, when installing a new belt. Always wash it with warm water and dish soap, rinse well and let air dry. This removes any remaining release film left on when manufactured. If not washed off, the film makes the sheaves glaze faster.
2nd, with belt off wipe down sheaves with any of these, mineral spirits, naptha, MEK, tolulol. All these work well to remove any glaze that has been built up on the sheaves.
3rd, use #0 or #00 steel wool and use a light circular pattern to put a light swirl on the sheave faces. Wipe down with a lint free cloth. Do not use compressed air to clean off. The high pressure will push dirt and debris deeper inside the clutches were you dont want it to go. The swirl pattern helps the sheaves grab the belt better.
A couple of small things most people dont do when working on clutches. 1st of all, when installing a new belt. Always wash it with warm water and dish soap, rinse well and let air dry. This removes any remaining release film left on when manufactured. If not washed off, the film makes the sheaves glaze faster.
2nd, with belt off wipe down sheaves with any of these, mineral spirits, naptha, MEK, tolulol. All these work well to remove any glaze that has been built up on the sheaves.
3rd, use #0 or #00 steel wool and use a light circular pattern to put a light swirl on the sheave faces. Wipe down with a lint free cloth. Do not use compressed air to clean off. The high pressure will push dirt and debris deeper inside the clutches were you dont want it to go. The swirl pattern helps the sheaves grab the belt better.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)