blue (my 2001 sport) got a new clutch and HD springs... versach ? sp clutch ... dang, but it locks up TIGHT now... it's about 25-28% more bearing surface, and the HD springs let me torque down a little bit more...

trust me, if you put the clutch off a lakota (or bayou) another cover gasket is REQUIRED... just save yourself the heart ache

On replacing a lakota clutch

before getting started order a clutch cover gasket and find a 15/16 impact socket. If you don't have a factory manual, GET ONE

1: remove brake pedal .. no realy .. you are going to do a mod on this anyway, so take it off.
1a: remove the footpegs -- just do it.. 19mm air imapct
2: get 2 feet of 1/2 pipe.. you'll see why
3: drain oil
4: remove all the little bolts around the clutch over
5: from the other side, take your pipe and a mallet .. there's a couple TABS setup to tap on.. work these back and forth... the cover will come off easy, it just needs a bunch of TAPS -- clean the gasket off both the tranny and the cover. Do a good job, it WILL leak
6: the 15/16 impact will take off the primary clutch
7:remove spring/carrier i think its 21MM for the secondary clutch main spring
8: YOU MUST understand the alignment dots under the clutch carrier... no, realy.. it won't go back together right. THere's a heavy circle on the spined part, and a light circle on the aluminum pack BACKSIDE... the top slides all the way down is ONE position, and ONE only. If not, you'll tear it back down.. trust me, just did that.
9: with new springs, you can tighten it down a bit harder, making a stronger engagement.. migh tnot matter on an otherwise stock bike
10 make certain the shfter triangles are setup properly.. it makes sense when you are in it
11: when you put the cover back on, after the entire build, make certain the spring on the cover slides OVER the sfiter rid. You are going to use this to adjust the engagement
12: remove the back panel on the clutch cover. There's a nut and a screw through the nut. Loosen the nut, turn the screw all the right clockwise until hard to turn, turn back COUNTER clockwise until firm, i turn back about 1 turn clockwise at this point, as that sets how hard it will be to shift.

put oil in it
LOOK FOR OIL LEAKS
fire it up.. shift, but don't drive till brake is back on
put brake and pegs back on
have fun.. it will shift harder and grab more than ever

 

thanks for the detailed explaination, but how do you tell if the primary or secondary is bad. I am getting some slipping when shifting into 3,4,5. not horrible but noticable. Dealer says it is primary clutch, I am not so sure

 

thanks for the detailed explaination, but how do you tell if the primary or secondary is bad. I am getting some slipping when shifting into 3,4,5. not horrible but noticable. Dealer says it is primary clutch, I am not so sure

 

I couldn't tell you if it is primary or secondary, but i could tell if i had the coveres off. The primary is pretty easy to see if it is broken . The arms will have chunks missing, and the ub will be groved or broken, or cracked, Its 30 mins longer to replace both, once open.

I would tell the service department that if they open it, to replace BOTH...

Or get parts on thieve bay - and do it all yourself