Brute Force Fan Problems
#1
Brute Force Fan Problems
got an '05 Brute 750.
While riding with a passenger yesterday, the temp indicator came on a few different times. The first time, I must not have seen it right away, because when i turned the quad off it was gurgling pretty good.
I was doing a few hill climbs in L 4x4 when the overheating happened.
I noticed that my fan doesnt seem to be coming on at all. I checked the connections at the male/female plug off of the harness as well as at the fan itself. All seemed to be in good condition.
The fan SHOULD be coming on automatically, correct? Is a non-working fan a common problem among the Brutes? Is it possible the fan-motor is bad?
Are there any popular switch-operated manual-fan mods available?
Thanks in Advance!
While riding with a passenger yesterday, the temp indicator came on a few different times. The first time, I must not have seen it right away, because when i turned the quad off it was gurgling pretty good.
I was doing a few hill climbs in L 4x4 when the overheating happened.
I noticed that my fan doesnt seem to be coming on at all. I checked the connections at the male/female plug off of the harness as well as at the fan itself. All seemed to be in good condition.
The fan SHOULD be coming on automatically, correct? Is a non-working fan a common problem among the Brutes? Is it possible the fan-motor is bad?
Are there any popular switch-operated manual-fan mods available?
Thanks in Advance!
#2
Brute Force Fan Problems
Read your owner's manual for fan breaker switch is located (under the seat) and how it looks like. See if the breaker reset button got popped out - it does that when fan is over-drawing the amps to save fan motor. Also, make sure the rear buss connector is not corroded under ther rear right fender. Do a search on this.
#3
Brute Force Fan Problems
thanks Hayashi.
I did some more searching. I checked the fan switch at the radiator and the connections are spick and span and tight. I checked the breaker under the seat. Where exactly is the reset button? Is it the little lime green circle at the back of the breaker? If so, right now the lime green portion is flush with the breaker itself, so I would assume it hasnt tripped? Unless flush = tripped and recessed = ok.
I have been trying to locate the rear buss connector, but am having some trouble. Do you have to remove plactics to access it?
I did some more searching. I checked the fan switch at the radiator and the connections are spick and span and tight. I checked the breaker under the seat. Where exactly is the reset button? Is it the little lime green circle at the back of the breaker? If so, right now the lime green portion is flush with the breaker itself, so I would assume it hasnt tripped? Unless flush = tripped and recessed = ok.
I have been trying to locate the rear buss connector, but am having some trouble. Do you have to remove plactics to access it?
#4
Brute Force Fan Problems
The connector is a size of 1.0" x 1.25" x 0.5" white plastic wrapped along the main harness by BLACK electrical tape. It has a little door/lid you can open up. You may find white/greenish corrosion in there.
Look where the red arrow is pointing in the photo below and you can feel the connector on the main harness.
Look where the red arrow is pointing in the photo below and you can feel the connector on the main harness.
#5
#6
Brute Force Fan Problems
In most cases, that/cleaning/grease will work. The sure fix is to separate the (+) and (-) wires combined in the connector - the corrosion is forming as a bridge between the two opposite polarity wires and short-circuiting them. You will just need two wing nut connectors - all Wht wires together and all Brn wires together. And get rid of the BUS connector.
#7
Brute Force Fan Problems
Thanks, i'll look into it.
another question:
I have not yet tested the fan motor itself as i currently do not have the appropriate tools. But is a bad fan motor a common problem? I noticed that the breather for the fan motor was hanging loose (i.e. not tucked up out of harms way). The breather itself is not very long. Could water have been sucked into the fan motor via the breather and short/destroy the fan motor?
I'm hoping that is NOT the case as the new fan assembly from Kawi is $300+!!!! Oof!
another question:
I have not yet tested the fan motor itself as i currently do not have the appropriate tools. But is a bad fan motor a common problem? I noticed that the breather for the fan motor was hanging loose (i.e. not tucked up out of harms way). The breather itself is not very long. Could water have been sucked into the fan motor via the breather and short/destroy the fan motor?
I'm hoping that is NOT the case as the new fan assembly from Kawi is $300+!!!! Oof!
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#8
Brute Force Fan Problems
Fan motor heats up when it's running and cools down when not running. When it's cooling down it will suck up any water in the hose. But personnaly I have not seen any damaged fan motor in that way. Usually more dramatic/mechanical damage. If the fan blade looks good and turns smoothly by hand, it is most likely GOOD. Simply you can direct connect the fam wires to battery for TESTING PURPOSE. Also, you may want to test to see if the fam switch turns ON at around 190+ F degrees.
#9
#10
Brute Force Fan Problems
How would you know WHEN exactly to turn ON and OFF?
Human is very inconsistent and forgetful in nature.
You don't want to leave it ON all the time, wearing out fan motor, draining battery, slower warming up of engine, etc.
You don't want to forget to turn it ON when needed, possibly causing overheating, warping the head, damaging the engine, etc.
A long time ago I removed a thermo-mechanical clutch driven fan and installed a manual ON/OFF elec fan on one of my cars. That time I learned it is best to leave to original design on something like that. That was 30 years ago. And it still holds true for me.
Human is very inconsistent and forgetful in nature.
You don't want to leave it ON all the time, wearing out fan motor, draining battery, slower warming up of engine, etc.
You don't want to forget to turn it ON when needed, possibly causing overheating, warping the head, damaging the engine, etc.
A long time ago I removed a thermo-mechanical clutch driven fan and installed a manual ON/OFF elec fan on one of my cars. That time I learned it is best to leave to original design on something like that. That was 30 years ago. And it still holds true for me.