Hi all. I had a unique opportunity to ride Kawasaki's latest Brute and do a write up for ATV Connection. Hope you like it. Bruce

Kawasaki Rolls out the Red Carpet

 

I picked up my new 2012 Camo Brute with EPS two days ago. I only have about ten miles on it, but I love it so far. I've had the biggest Kawi utility machines available since 2003 and they just keep getting better. I didn't think that power steering would be that big a deal. I was wrong. What a difference. Silky smooth with virtually no bump steer. They seem to have really improved the ride also. I'll have to get my ITP wheels and Terracross tires mounted to get a true comparison to my 2008, but the ride seems much smoother so far. The softer seat is a welcome improvement that I'm sure I'll appreciate on those 90-110 mile days. So far there is nothing I don't like about it. I'm even getting used to the new look. The Kawi rebates and a dealer that treats me fair kept the price within reason.

 

Looking at BF or CanAm myself, please keep us updated.

 

Glad you like the BF, Bruteboy. If I didn't need a 2-up machine it would be on the list of quads I'd consider.

 

Put another 21 miles on the new Brute today after installing the ITP SS112 wheels and 26" Terracross tires. The ride is still smoother than my 2008 even with the 6 ply tires that came off of the 2008. The ride is not as harsh. The small bumps aren't even felt and the larger ones aren't as dramatic. The power steering provides the dampening to make the bumps seem very tame through the handlebars. I am having problems with a wobble in the front end. My ITP tires are probably out of round and balance. I think when I first got them it took a fair amount of wheel weights to balance them. Re-aligning the front end on the 2008 made it a lot less noticeable. I'll have to check the toe-in on this machine. If that doesn't help I may need new tires. The riding I've been doing is a combination of paved and gravel roads and a very small amount of off road so far. I've been varying my speed a lot to break-in the engine. When I goosed it with the 25" stock tires I hit 65 on the speedo before backing down. With the 26" I hit 60 before letting off. I didn't have the GPS and I don't have the calculations handy to check the speedometer error with the taller tires.
Still appreciating the softer seat very much. The 2008 was softer than the 2005 and this one is plush compared to both of them.

 

My buddy had a 2010 and traded it for the 12 with power steering.
He loves it.
We ride a-lot and no issues at all.

I am at work so I can't post the link since you tube is blocked here but he made a vid on how to fashion a reciever for the front so you can switch your winch from front to rear.
I can tell you this mod has helped several times.

Look under thepabrute or possibly search front reciever or winch mount brute force.

My modem died at home so if anyone finds the vid post it since it is a do it yourself mod and not something he is selling.

 

King Quad,
I didn't find the winch video, but did find some trail riding videos under the name "thepabrute". Looked like some nice country for riding.
I called ITP today about my tires and they weren't willing to admit it could be the tires. Blamed it on toe out (which my machine doesn't have). I measured as best as I could and it looks like I have about 1/2" toe-in on each side. I've had luck before with setting toe-in to zero. When I take it back to the dealer I'll have them check it. It makes sense (I think) that an aggressive tire might push and pull when it is subjected to toe-in or toe out. It's then accentuated by the more flexible radial sidewalls. Then in my case you have the power steering possibly reading this input and reacting to it which makes it even worse.

 

for setting the tow you will need a tram gauge and use a piece of paper like a post it note and mark the center. use the gauge and set it to the center then rotate the tires 1/2 turn and check from the back side. if it is the same your tow is good. (this is how they did it before laser align racks) also take a straight line
(laser level works well) and see if the front are sitting the same as the rear.
If you have an offset wheel eye ball the front and the rear and see if they are the same.
looking from front wheel to rear you should have a straight line with the laser from the edge of the tire front to back. .

BTW here are the vids in question
1. ‪Receiver tutorial.MP4‬‏ - YouTube
2. ‪Quad hitch building.MP4‬‏ - YouTube

This guy and I wont make him public by mentioning his name is one hell of a rider. (former semi pro racer) I am 40 and he is 60+ and can ride me into the dirt. I have seen him do some things that I would not even attempt. He is a great guy and taught me how to ride hard. I am proud to call him friend.

 

King Quad, Thanks for the alignment tips and links to the videos. My son gave me a laser level for Christmas one year and then borrowed it back. I think it then became the property of one of his friends. I might have to draw a rectangle on the floor that's slightly wider than the wheel width of the rear wheels. Drive into and align the machine, anchor the handlebars square and then use the rectangle for my reference. I figure I can measure the distance at the front and rear of the front wheel to the parallel lines and adjust from there. The string method might work also. (parallel strings coming around back tires and along side the machine to the front anchored to something(s) in front of the machine.
The method using marks on the center front and center rear of the tires sounded good until I realized there is too much junk on the back side to work around. (frame, splash guards etc.).