Just rebuilt the carb on 02 prairie 300. Turned the pilot screw 2 turns out as manual says. Idles fantastic but stalls as soon as throttle is pushed. What am I missing here?

 

If the machine ran before and not now, I'd guess you didn't get something installed correctly.

Was it dirty?

Did you install the jet needle from the bottom vs the top (throat of carb)?

Did you clean the main jet and pilot jet?

Did you check the float level measurement and/or by clear tube method?

Maybe the diaphragm valve has a hole in the rubber or isn't sealed, or, the topside has a little plastic piece that is not supposed to block a little hole in the slide.

 

Machine was not running properly before. Main reason I did the carb rebuild. Grandson had it out and died on him. I came to fix it and found the fuel filter was clogged. Blew the filter clean and it ran fine enough to get it home.

Replaced the fuel filter with a universal from Advance auto. Would start but would backfire like heck, which prompted me to do the carb rebuild. Now I am where I am at now. only thing I did not do is the float level measurement.
Could you i give me an idea on how to do that? And what the heck is clear tube method? I am good with my hands but is this above my pay grade?

 

Aftermarket fuel filters can reduce the fuel flow, especially if the tank is low.

Clean the tank and remove the filter and try again?

Float level is probably not it but a service manual might say 17mm. That means the bottom of the float should be 17mm above the bowl seam when the carb is tilted such that the fuel valve is just contacting the float tang.

The clear tube method is for an assembled carb, level, and you attach the tube to the drain nipple, then open the drain valve and the fuel should fill the tube to the level of the bowl seam. Exact specs may vary according to model.

 

Cleaned the tank and put all new fuel line hoses when I started this project
I Used my shell reloading caliper and miked the float to 17 mm It will take a tiny bit of gas then hiccups internally and stalls. I will try and bypass the fuel filter and change the sparkplug tomorrow and see if that brings me any luck.
I pulled the plug today and it seemed a little fouled. By the look of the plug I would say it was getting too much fuel but i could be wrong. We will see what tomorrow brings. Thank you for all the good info.

 

Is the service manual for the 300 giving 17mm as the setting? I was just using that as an example.

 

Yes it was.... Good guess lol

 

Here is where I am at ... Cleaned the tank again. put fresh fuel in it. Bypassed the inline fuel filter that was on it. Cleaned and re gapped the spark plug (none available locally)

Started from bottom seat with the pilot screw and went in increments of a quarter to a half turn. ATV will start in any pilot position sometimes with the choke on but most positions did not require the choke.

Best I was able to accomplish was in one position I was able to rev the machine with the choke half way. But it would backfire now and then and all together run pretty hot. In that position it would die out at normal idle unless I disengaged the choke.

It seemed to idle the smoothest with the choke in the off position most of the time. As I said in the previous post I set the float to 17mm which are service manual specs.

Should I do that clear tube method just to make sure all is good? Could it possibly be the spark plug even though it idles so nicely? I am running out thing to do. Hurts to say this and my pride will be bruised but should I just give up and take it to the Kawasaki shop?