Lookign to replace the clutch.

Have side cover off and am wondering how to remove 22mm and 24mm nuts off of shafts. One shaft for clutch spindle the other shaft is for the auto clutch spindle????

1st auto clutch I have ever seen.

Cant figure out how to hold mechanism from spinning when trying to remove nuts. A clutch basket tool would not work at this point either.

After replacing clutch will I need to make adjustments???? I geuss there is an adjustment accessed from outside of the cover.

Advice?

Thnaks,
D

 

Why didn't you try to adjust the clutch? If it binds or slips it could just need adjustment. I always use an air wrench to remove centre nuts. I suspect the front one will be left hand thread. If you can, get a shop manual, this will tell you the thickness that the plates can wear to before needing replacement. The centrifugal shoes work OK until they wear to the steel backing, then they slip. On the 300 the adjuster is behind a cover that bolts on the clutch cover.

 

It was working fine for a year then it started to slip. It was right after smoking the oil. Changed the oil and slip was worse. Figured time to replace.

I never knew there was even an adjustment until I started searching the replacement.

Is it normal for the clutch to require adjusting during the lifecycle of the clutch?????

Thanks for the reply merryman.

 

Yes they need adjusting sometimes. While you have the cover off it is worth removing the plate clutch and scuffing the plates lightly with emery cloth. I once had a 300 that slipped it's clutch even though it was adjusted right and the plate thickness and spring length were in tolerance, an old quad mechanic gave me the scuffing tip and the bike worked fine afterwards.

 

Thanks for the tip.

Once you get the adjuster cover off, how do you adjust it?

I read somewhere, loosen the bolt then tighten it up.....is that all there is too it?

 

Come on Kawasaki owners, help us out, I maintain very few Kawsakis. As a general rule with Quads you slacken the locknut, screw the screw anti-clockwise until it starts to bind, then back off about 1/4 turn, and re-tighten the locknut. Some adjusters work the opposite way though and I can't remember which way Kawasakis go. If it has been slipping it may be binding anyway and need turning clockwise first.

 

Just remembered I have the shop manual for the Lakota, the 250 will be similar but the plate thickness/ spring length may not. They are 2.8mm and 28mm minimum. The adjuster goes clockwise till it starts to bind and back off anti clockwise until it starts to bind. This doesn't sound right but is what the book says.

 

so I got the 22mm and 24mm socket for the nut removal, but the 24mm wasn't deep enough. Luckily I got them at a thrift store for $1 each. Probably have to buy one at the parts house.

Thanks for the tech support.