Prairie 300 carburetor problems
#11
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Only metering rods I've seen are on car carbs.. Sure you don't mean the jet needle that goes into the slide? Service Bulletin Carter Carb Metering Rods - YouTube
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#12
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I had my cousin do a compression test and it was fine, and he checked the jets to make sure they were where they are supposed to be, we didnt have the manual so he just looked up the standard factory settings for my quad. He put in a spark plug that burns hotter and it helped a little, but it still stalls. We kept cleaning the carb because it wasnt cleaned thoroughly the first couple times, and each time after that that we opened the carb he messed with the float position to see if that was the problem, which it wasnt the float is perfect where its at, it cuts off the fuel when it needs to. Ive looked it up, and it seems the carbs that come stock on the prairie are notoriously fickle, and I am wondering about just getting an aftermarket one if that is indeed the problem. Also, the jet needle is fine as well, so thats not the problem either.
#13
#14
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A "hotter plug" doesn't spark hotter but heats up quicker than a colder plug and retains that heat for better combustion on engines that need this. If you haven't replaced the needle and seat,I'd at least do that,better if you just got the Shindy carb kit so you could at least have the carb in tip top shape and go from there if carburetion isn't the problem.
#15
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If you haven't changed the jets or drilled them out, I can't see how the bike should be running so rich that it fouls the plug, unless the carb has been assembled wrongly, or the choke is stuck. If it has a CD carb, the only other thing I can think of is the CD piston sticking. Make sure this piston moves up and down smoothly, that the diaphragm is OK, and check the choke plunger is seating in the carb when the choke is off. Also get an exploded view drawing of your carb, I suspect somewhere there is a component missing, or fitted wrongly.
#16
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Are you cleaning or rebuilding the carburetor? What you need is a complete rebuild kit from the factory. On mine I did a rebuild and added a Uni performance kit with new jets and metering rod. It ran great after that. I would recommend a thorough go thru to evaluate the engine. Compression test, check valve lash (clearance), get a spark jump tester and see if the spark is hot enough. Make sure there are no air leaks where the carb mounts. Do you have a factory service manual to get the correct carb setting for the metering rods? Slide carbs do require an accurate setup to perform correctly. If you have a hot enough spark then the carb is your issue as long as you haven't messed with the timing. Something has gotten out of adjustment, spark is weak, or the carb is not set up correctly. That 300 is an awesome motor, one of the most trouble free that Kawasaki ever built. In fact I see they are reintroducing it all over again in newer models.
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