If it is a genuine carb from a Kawasaki dealer, it should be OK. Though I got a KLF to fix by a Kawasaki dealership, because "it wouldn't run right." They had fitted a new carb, but had connected the drain pipe from the bottom of the carb to the breather at the top! However if it is a Chinese knock off, the carb will need tuning to suit your bike, may even need different jets. Try cleaning it out first, could be a bit of swarf left in from manufacture.

 

I had to look this word up. Metal filings or bits it said which we would have said over here. I'm learning new English words everyday..

 

The fact it will not run with the air filter points to a rich mixture, start by checking this out first.

1. what is the carb oem or aftermarket?

2. what are the jets
size?
Brand- oem,dynojet,EBC are all different even if they are marked with the same number. If possible stay oem but do not trust the kawasaki shop is selling you oem vs aftermarket look at the jet for markings.
3. check the float height fuel level, too high or a flooding carb can do this.
4. check that the enrichener circuit is shutting off, if not you will be trying to ride with the extra fuel and it will not work.
5. check the throttle slide it working fully open to close and that the slide is not backwards (some can be but not all).
6. check the plug to see if it is wet or black
7. check that the fuel screw has all the parts. , my 220 carb was missing carburetor o-ring and ,washer in this circuit so it would be rich.

 

 

I have seen enough poor Chinese knockoffs that I usually would prefer a oem used and warrantied off of eBay. The knock offs could be as good or better but in something where precision is needed I doubt a $25 carb was too concerned.

 

Quality Japanese rebuild kits are cheaper than the cheap Chinese knock off carbs. This one is 16 bucks.

 

 

I am not sure of the shiny jets but I bet old polaris tech could let you know if the jets are mikuni branded jets as they will always have the mikuni symbol stamped on them. The carb you have may be fine if the jetting is correct for your motor. The hard part will be for you to tell if it is right without the proper tools to do so. Without a way to measure air fuels ratios or Co and Hydrocarbons you are just guessing.

Guessing does work some times but every time you change something away from oem it changes the outcome. Think of it as a cooking recipe but instead of using the described ingredients you chose ones that are similar. Yes store brand ingredients may taste okay but they often are different and will change the outcome.

Slow down and hit the basics first (adjust both valves first) and then once that is set start to figure out if you are rich or lean in each of the circuits of the carburetor. If you are running a oem carb start with stock oem jets and settings. Then if the ate is not stock (exhaust and or airbag changes) you will probably need to richen the jets from stock.

If you are on the rich side (which it sounds like due to your description) look to anything that might be out of spec or simply start adjusting to get the air fuel right. If you have the old poem carb you can measure needle diameter ,taper and position to see if the new carb is the same.