Has anyone replaced the driven pully spacer with a smaller one to correct belt deflection. I am slightly over spec but my belt is well within width specs as per service manual.
I am going to attempt the spacer rather than a new belt because of the relatively few miles I have on it and the fact that the belt is within specs.
I was just wondering how much of a pain it is, and if there are any "gotchas" to look out for.....

oh yeah one other small question for experienced engine tuners. I noticed that the main jet in the rear carb is larger the front one. Why is this?
Thanks

 

Read my other posts concerning the few hundred dollars of tools you need to do it correctly. I am WAY over spec and have not done it.

 

I changed mine without buying any tools, go to this web page for details. (Bonzi)

http://moon.shreve.net/~hilift1/cgi-...7&t=000066

To adjust belt deflection you only have to remove the secondary, the shim has nothing to do with spring preload that is a differant function. The shim is located between the secondary halfs, and they must be seperated. Heres what involved first remove the belt to do this pry the halves apart with a pry that will not mar the surface of the clutch faces. the halve closest to the engine will be the movable part. After the belt is off remove the nut that holds the secondary clutch on, slide the clutch off being careful not to lose one of the four roller buttons that drive the helex. Remove the buttons they are located inside where the drive shaft was, use a small screw driver and put it into the small slot and pry out. Next depress the spring retainer and remove the e ring, watch out this is under some pressure and thing will fly all over the workshop if your not careful. Split the clutch halves and you will see a large washer between the halves, this is the spacer and in order to decrease belt deflection you will need to put in a thinner one, this will make the belt ride higher in the secondary and give more bottom end, I had to make a tool to reinstall the buttons, I will post a picture of it on my web page. I just slip the buttons into the prongs and slide down the shaft opening with my finger untill they slp into the corresponding holes. What a bear. Belt deflections is very important so dont let it go, its hard on clutch faces,performance and belts. Picture on
http://communities.msn.com/Bonziessite/photoalbum.msnw

 

Mine has been in the shop for three weeks waiting for the back-ordered spacers. This is supposed to be a waranty item, but I was thinking of trying to do it myself. Most shops won't even start to open it up until they have the spacers. What if it has two spacers now and all you have to do is remove one? I want mine adjusted back to the minimum spec.

 

Prarie your right it should come with two washers but it dosnt. Its going to be a tough learning curve if you do it the first time, but after that its a cinch. I have been tunning Snowmobile clutchs for a long time so it wasnt to bad. I just couldnt understand why they made it so hard. I used a Ski Doo spacer about half the thickness of the origonal and ground out the hole untill it sliped over the clutch shaft. If you guys get in trouble give a shout be glad to help. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img]

 

Bonzi, I am not very familiar with CVT Drives. I understand that they use the "sqeezing" of the belt on the drive sheave to act as a frictional clutch, and then the "riding" up and down on both sheaves to get the max and min effective gear ratios. Does the initial belt tension, determined by the location or riding height of the belt on the driven sheave, also change the effective ratio between the drive and driven sheaves? In other words I am wondering what things, if any, can effect the lower and higher ratios and change either the low end torque just after belt engagement or the high ratio (and top speed)? Why don't aftermarket companies make non-standard driven sheaves for use with non-standard length belt sizes to enable either lower or higher effective ratios? I know the initial tension is chosen to allow slippage at idle without slippage after engagement, but what if the driven sheave would allow the belt to ride in a tighter radius. Would this, which would require a slightly shorter belt, provide a higher ratio and thus a little higher top speed as long as the engine had the torque to match it????

 

Your right about belt deflection changing ratios, if a belt has to much deflection it will engage the belt to high in the primary which will result in low end loss, belt failure and cluth face groving, usually noticable by squeeling when under high load. Can't help with after market belt and probably not feasible.
If the deflection is to little the machine will want to crawl or squeel before engagement. They should have made adjustable sheaves like the snowmobile Mfg's. I was going to try and modify mine but doesn't look like I can. You might want to look at the exploded view on http://www.buykawasaki.com/site/home/ web page for some info. Its called a driven converter, the button that are hard to work with a 92122, the shim is 920266/a/b. Remember to mark the clutchs so they go back together the same way so as to stay in balance.

 

Thanks for the excellent info Bonzi, I just have two questions.
What is the size of the factory spacer that you took out?
The reason I ask is when I ordered the spacers(still on backorder) I only ordered the 0.60(p/n:9206-1569), and the 1.00(p/n:92026-1565) but did not order the 1.4 because I assumed it was the same size as stock. Can you confirm if this was a correct assumtion or not. If not I will obviously have to order that one as well.

And, what was your initial deflection before correcting it with a smaller spacer. Mine is currently reading 1 and 3/16ths or 1.1875. This will help me to decide how much smaller to go as you stated that you went to about half the width of the original.
Thanks again!!!

 

My calipers may be off but it looks like stock is .045 inch, dont know what that is in metric, as far as belt deflection I can only say that I could spin the belt thur the sheaves by hand, I try to get the belt as tight as I can without the belt squeeling on the primary shaft or the machine crawling at idle.

 

I just finished changing the shims to correct the belt deflection issue and I'm sure glad I did. She seems to have more power than ever!!!
Bonzi did you only have one shim, because when I did mine there were two? Both were the same size so I just removed one of them and now I'm well within the range given in the service manual.
Anyone who is waiting for a backordered set of shims might want to take a look, you may get lucky like I did[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]