i need to re-ring my 2002 mojave. any one ever done this or know any information about the job? i need as much information as possible on how to do this, and I also need cam timing specs, etc...

 

It's best you buy a manual. It's not very hard but cam timing and tourque values are very inportant.

Also atleast have the cilinder honed. If you have the money buy a 11.5:1 comp piston @.020" over. Have the cilinder bored to the piston. It's real important to have a round cilinder, correct piston to wall clearence, and correct ring gap.

This is not very hard at all, just get a book.

 

gaff is ecactly right.just did mine.piece of cake.buy clymer manual.i bought a clymer manual and was very happy with the detail.

 

Hi guys I just bought a 96 Mojave with the head and cylinder off of the motor. I went to the dealer and ordered the parts and manual. The only thing they had in stock was the oil filter the rest should be in wednesday.

Because the head and cylinder were in a box with the screws I have a question. When you take the head cover off there is a pipe going over the head bolts. I'm guessing oil goes threw it to lube the exhaust cam. My question is what kind of bolts go in that pipe? I dont have any small bango bolts in my box. It lookes like it would use regular bolts. I went to kawasaki's parts diagrams and it only says "small bolt". When I looked up the oil feed bolt to the head it says "bango bolt" so I'm guessing it is just a regular bolt in that pipe. I just don't want to burn up the exhaust cam and head.

If all goes well I will have my first ride next weekend.

Thanks for your help

Chad

 

Why are you re-ringing a new bike so soon?My 01'Mojave had blow by from day 1 and it just got worse.It got to where it was filling the airbox up with oil in 15 minutes.My cylinder was way out of round,they press the sleeve into the jug but dont bore/hone it after this like they should.?The sleeve distorts slightly due to this,re-boring it will fix it better than new.

Just tore down the neighbor girls 01'mojave last night,low compression and oil burning.The intake valves have recessed into the heads so far that they are below the pressed in seats! The exhaust valves look great,weird since they usually wear out faster than the intakes.

Her intake cam is "flat" too,it's missing alot of the cam lobe.The exhaust cam looks fine.Cylinder ,rings and piston could be salvaged but her pop wants to "do it right" so its going in to be bored,new piston ect.

Rx735iw....the bolts that go into the pipe are silver colored (chrome?),they take an 8mm socket and are about 1/2 inch long.Nuthing special about them.

 

Oooops,the bolts that go into the oil pipe are more like 1'inch long,not 1/2 as I stated earlier.they are the only silver colored bolts in my bag that take an 8mm socket tho. hth.Also theres 2 dowl pins between the cyl and crankcase,2 more between the head and cyl.

 

Thanks Chris142.

I remember seeing those screws. I thought they were for the timing chain tensioner. Hopefully the service manual will be helpfull with the sizes. I have the dowel pins that go in the case, head and cams. I think I can judge the sizes pretty well after working on the newer caddy motors. I just wasnt sure about the screw because you normally have banjos in that type of pipe.

Do I need any special sealants to put this back together? I would like to have everything on hand so I can start on it as soon as my parts come in. I have all kinds of sealants, lock tights, and pipe dope already.

Thanks again
Chad

 

When I done mine the dealer told me to use "indian head gasket schalac" on the headgasket.I did and it hasn't leaked yet.I put a very small amount of silicone where the base gasket covers the split in the cases.Thats it for sealants I used.

I did use lots of assembly lube,I feel this is the most important part.I used Torco engine assembly lube on the cam bearings(it's like a thick oil),on the actual cam lobe I used the black moly assy lube(grease like stuff).I didn't use the moly stuff on the cam bearings because I dont know how well it flows and didn't want it to plug up an oil hole or something.

I used 5w-30 exxon motor oil for break-in,my thought was that it would pump up to the cam very fast,much faster than a thicker oil would.Your better off having a thin oil immediatly on startup than no oil for 5-10 seconds.

I rode the bike around the block a couple of times,riding it pretty mellow.A couple of days later I went on a 50 mile ride with it,I didn't scream it but I did what I had to do to get where we were going.It put about 1/2 inch of oil in the drain tube.I went for a couple other mellow putts around the "hood" during the following week.I changed the oil/filter when it had about 7 hours on it.

I used Kawachem 10w-40 for the next 20 hours of riding,slowly working it up to max rpm at about 17 hours.It completly quit putting oil in the tube by this point,I changed the oil/filter again this time using "kawachem synthetic 10w-40".Iv'e probly put over 100 hours on it since and it still runs great.