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understanding clutches and belts.

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Old Apr 20, 2003 | 10:05 PM
  #11  
slot's Avatar
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Default understanding clutches and belts.

Has I see the shims should have nothing to do with your Prairie,s top speed. Your driven pulley should open has far as the four pins will let it no matter how many shims it has. Unless of course your belt is completly shot. Removing shims will just tighten your belt, once your pulley starts to open it should no longer be touching shims.
Just my thoughts, Slot

650 prairie pics
 
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Old Apr 20, 2003 | 10:12 PM
  #12  
SHOTGUN's Avatar
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Default understanding clutches and belts.

wolley,

Glad you got it fixed.

Congrads on the new baby.

I'm thinking about getting a new 2500HD, Duramax, how do you like yours?
 
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Old Apr 21, 2003 | 12:55 AM
  #13  
RebelDS's Avatar
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Default understanding clutches and belts.

Slot, are you saying that the sheaves open all the way to the 4 pins, not matter what? Of is there a maximum that the sheaves open at the RPM the quad is limited to. I know how the clutch works, but assumed that the sheaves don't open all the way, because too many people have said they tightened their belt and lost top speed, or loosened their belt and gained top speed.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2003 | 04:06 PM
  #14  
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Default understanding clutches and belts.

No! I,am saying by removing shims it will not change how far the sheaves open. Just tighten up your belt, your top speed should be the same. If you have the black spring that may lower your top speed.

Slot
 
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Old Apr 21, 2003 | 09:24 PM
  #15  
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Default understanding clutches and belts.

Shotgun
I guess I need to update my sig. Little one has been here since 10 minutes to midnight on the 31 of Dec. WooooHoooo, tax break baby.
I guess since this is my second Dmax I really do like them but sadly it no longer fits my needs and is for sale as we speak. Neither truck has ever been back to the dealer for anything so I guess that speaks for their reliability.

I'm with Slot on this a tight belt shouldn't affect top end but somehow it did.
I did finally find a few good links for CVT cluches the best of which is here.
Aimed at sleds but the theory still applies to our clutches.
Still got a lot of questions but now they pertain to the 650 clutch and how to get it apart without spending major bucks on special tools.
I just got the new EPI catalog and was shocked at the price of weights. Kawasaki sells different weights too. Are they as expensive as the EPI bellybusters?
 
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