Sunl Hanma R5 No spark
Sep 3, 2012 | 11:08 PM
#1
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Weekend Warrior
Joined: Sep 2012
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Sunl Hanma R5 No spark
Ok...this is frustrating! I bought a 2006 Hanma R5 110atv for $20 from a guy on Craigslist. When we spoke originally he wanted $150 for it and said it only needed a battery. So I decided to go have a look at the atv!! The quad itself was in really good shape looks wise. So I jumped out of my truck with a new fully charged battery and hooked it up. I wasnt expecting it to fire right up since he been sitting in garage for 6 months. The quad did nothing when I tried to start it. No clicks, no noise at all. I decided that I was gonna walk away from the deal but the guy acted like he really needed to get rid of it. I told him i wasnt interested since it showed no signs of life, We ended up striking a deal for a $20 bill and I thru the quad in my pick up and headed home.Once I got it home I removed the plastics and saw a wiring mess!!!! What first caught my eye was the fact that the ignition coil had be messed with( no place to put a key). I got to thinking that this quad might have been stolen?? The harness for the ignitoin is still intact but the front half where you insert the key has ben popped off and two wires are looped together??? So I remove all plastics from the atv to see what I am dealing with. Wires were scotched taped together!!!LOL Its just a soup pie!!
I am a pretty handy guy when it comes to cars and mowers a weedeaters, but I am no electrician! I reconnected as many of the wires as i could make sense of. I ieft off the headlights and taillights. Evrything else seemed to have a proper plug to attach to. Once I got everything hooked back up I decided I would clean the carb out. I did that with carb cleaner and complressed air. All jets were dirty! I replaced the carb and set the gas tak on the quad and hooked fuel lines back up. The next thing I noticed is that the ignitoin coil had been tampered with(no keys) and the quad still tries to turnover, I assumed that this quad had been stolen and sold to me.I hooked the carb back up to the quad and I was getting fuel to the carb but I wasnt getting any spark at all. At first I jumped the starter solenoid with a box end wrench, the engine turned over immediatley....small victory.....I then made sure that i was getting fuel to the carb and I was...Next check was for some spark. I installed a brand new plug and still no spark! I was pulling my hair out trying to figure out why!! I started to inspect the actual plug wire and it was slightly melted and one end was pulled out of the end that attached to my frame??? I shoved it back in there. still no spark! Now back to ignition switch with the front half missing where the key should be. I plug that back into the harness and the electric start buttum begins to turnt he motor over. I guess someone hot wired the ignition to not need a key to start. I do have a 7amp fuse after the battery but still no spark. WHat should I try first? I was going to order a new coil and ignition switch to see if that helps.This aTV has a 5 pin CDI but I am not sure what to do next. I see a complete wiring harness for the Hanma R5 for $135 which includes all but the stator! Is this the best route for me to go? The handlebar switche on the quad is painted black so I have no idea what they run or turn off. I know one should be a kill switch and the other is elect starter and the other for headlights?Where should I begin? new CDI, coil, ignition switch, new handlebar switches, stator?
Any help given wll be greatly appreciated.
I am a pretty handy guy when it comes to cars and mowers a weedeaters, but I am no electrician! I reconnected as many of the wires as i could make sense of. I ieft off the headlights and taillights. Evrything else seemed to have a proper plug to attach to. Once I got everything hooked back up I decided I would clean the carb out. I did that with carb cleaner and complressed air. All jets were dirty! I replaced the carb and set the gas tak on the quad and hooked fuel lines back up. The next thing I noticed is that the ignitoin coil had been tampered with(no keys) and the quad still tries to turnover, I assumed that this quad had been stolen and sold to me.I hooked the carb back up to the quad and I was getting fuel to the carb but I wasnt getting any spark at all. At first I jumped the starter solenoid with a box end wrench, the engine turned over immediatley....small victory.....I then made sure that i was getting fuel to the carb and I was...Next check was for some spark. I installed a brand new plug and still no spark! I was pulling my hair out trying to figure out why!! I started to inspect the actual plug wire and it was slightly melted and one end was pulled out of the end that attached to my frame??? I shoved it back in there. still no spark! Now back to ignition switch with the front half missing where the key should be. I plug that back into the harness and the electric start buttum begins to turnt he motor over. I guess someone hot wired the ignition to not need a key to start. I do have a 7amp fuse after the battery but still no spark. WHat should I try first? I was going to order a new coil and ignition switch to see if that helps.This aTV has a 5 pin CDI but I am not sure what to do next. I see a complete wiring harness for the Hanma R5 for $135 which includes all but the stator! Is this the best route for me to go? The handlebar switche on the quad is painted black so I have no idea what they run or turn off. I know one should be a kill switch and the other is elect starter and the other for headlights?Where should I begin? new CDI, coil, ignition switch, new handlebar switches, stator?
Any help given wll be greatly appreciated.
Sep 7, 2012 | 12:38 AM
#4
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From: Tracy, California, USA
I missed this post 
. I'm so busy these days I'm having real trouble keeping up.
You need a meter to see what's going on. Here is the generic 5 Pin CDI "no spark" procedure:
So first see if this matches your 5 pin CDI, and next see if you have a remote start/stop module. If you do then unplug it and see if that restores spark [I need to update the procedure below but haven't had time yet].
. I'm so busy these days I'm having real trouble keeping up.You need a meter to see what's going on. Here is the generic 5 Pin CDI "no spark" procedure:
So first see if this matches your 5 pin CDI, and next see if you have a remote start/stop module. If you do then unplug it and see if that restores spark [I need to update the procedure below but haven't had time yet].
Is this a picture of your CDI?
Assuming the answer is yes, the first thing to do is eliminate all kill switches and kill switch wiring:
Method 1) Unplug the CDI and remove the kill switch pin in the CDI connector on the wiring harness. The pin is held in with a spring tab on the pin itself. You'll have to probe into the connector and push this tab in order to extract the pin. Plug the CDI back in (kill switch wire dangling) and see if you have spark.
Method 2) Unplug the CDI. Turn on the ignition switch and set all kill switches to the run position. Use a meter to measure resistance in of the kill switch pin in the wiring harness connector to engine/frame ground. If the resistance is infinite on the 200K ohm scale then your kill switches/kill switch wiring are OK. If you measure zero ohms then you have a kill switch/wiring issue.
The other inputs your CDI needs to make spark are AC Ignition Power, and the Trigger signal. Do the following:
1) Unplug the CDI. In the wiring connector measure the resistance of the AC Ignition Power pin to the Ground pin. You should see 400 ohms or so. What do you measure?
2) Measure the resistance of the Timing/trigger pin to the ground pin. You should measure 150 ohms or so. What do you measure?
3) Leave the CDI unplugged. Set your meter to measure AC volts on the 100 volt scale. Measure the voltage on the AC Ignition Power pin to the ground pin while cranking the engine. You should see 40 to 80 volts AC while the engine is cranking. What do you measure?
4) Set your meter to measure AC volts on the lowest scale you have. Ideally this would be 2 volts but many meters don't go down this low. In that case use the lowest scale you have. Measure the voltage on the Timing Trigger pin to the Ground pin while cranking the engine. You should 0.2 t0 0.4 volts AC. What do you measure?
Now for measuring the output side of the CDI:
A) Leave the CDI unplugged. In the CDI wiring connector measure the resistance of the Ignition Coil pin to the ground pin. You should measure less than 1 ohm (but not zero ohms). What do you measure?
B) Plug the CDI back in. Set your meter to measure AC volts on the 20 volt scale. Set all kill switches to the run position. Crank the engine while measuring the voltage on the Igntition Coil pin to ground. Poke through the insulation of the wire if you can't probe the connector.
Caution: There should be moderately high voltage spikes on this wire. Make sure your fingers are not part of the circuitry. Don't touch the probe lead tips while doing this test.
What you should see is a lot of random numbers with lots of zero values as well. This is because the meter may catch all or part of the spark event voltage, with a lot of nothing in between. Describe what you see.
Note: Using a meter to measure this point produces highly variable results depending on the meter. What you really need is an oscilloscope, but most always a meter is all that is available. We have to do the best we can with what's available. Describe the meter results as accurately as you can - there is information there to chew on....
Assuming the answer is yes, the first thing to do is eliminate all kill switches and kill switch wiring:
Method 1) Unplug the CDI and remove the kill switch pin in the CDI connector on the wiring harness. The pin is held in with a spring tab on the pin itself. You'll have to probe into the connector and push this tab in order to extract the pin. Plug the CDI back in (kill switch wire dangling) and see if you have spark.
Method 2) Unplug the CDI. Turn on the ignition switch and set all kill switches to the run position. Use a meter to measure resistance in of the kill switch pin in the wiring harness connector to engine/frame ground. If the resistance is infinite on the 200K ohm scale then your kill switches/kill switch wiring are OK. If you measure zero ohms then you have a kill switch/wiring issue.
The other inputs your CDI needs to make spark are AC Ignition Power, and the Trigger signal. Do the following:
1) Unplug the CDI. In the wiring connector measure the resistance of the AC Ignition Power pin to the Ground pin. You should see 400 ohms or so. What do you measure?
2) Measure the resistance of the Timing/trigger pin to the ground pin. You should measure 150 ohms or so. What do you measure?
3) Leave the CDI unplugged. Set your meter to measure AC volts on the 100 volt scale. Measure the voltage on the AC Ignition Power pin to the ground pin while cranking the engine. You should see 40 to 80 volts AC while the engine is cranking. What do you measure?
4) Set your meter to measure AC volts on the lowest scale you have. Ideally this would be 2 volts but many meters don't go down this low. In that case use the lowest scale you have. Measure the voltage on the Timing Trigger pin to the Ground pin while cranking the engine. You should 0.2 t0 0.4 volts AC. What do you measure?
Now for measuring the output side of the CDI:
A) Leave the CDI unplugged. In the CDI wiring connector measure the resistance of the Ignition Coil pin to the ground pin. You should measure less than 1 ohm (but not zero ohms). What do you measure?
B) Plug the CDI back in. Set your meter to measure AC volts on the 20 volt scale. Set all kill switches to the run position. Crank the engine while measuring the voltage on the Igntition Coil pin to ground. Poke through the insulation of the wire if you can't probe the connector.
Caution: There should be moderately high voltage spikes on this wire. Make sure your fingers are not part of the circuitry. Don't touch the probe lead tips while doing this test.
What you should see is a lot of random numbers with lots of zero values as well. This is because the meter may catch all or part of the spark event voltage, with a lot of nothing in between. Describe what you see.
Note: Using a meter to measure this point produces highly variable results depending on the meter. What you really need is an oscilloscope, but most always a meter is all that is available. We have to do the best we can with what's available. Describe the meter results as accurately as you can - there is information there to chew on....
Ok...this is frustrating! I bought a 2006 Hanma R5 110atv for $20 from a guy on Craigslist. When we spoke originally he wanted $150 for it and said it only needed a battery. So I decided to go have a look at the atv!! The quad itself was in really good shape looks wise. So I jumped out of my truck with a new fully charged battery and hooked it up. I wasnt expecting it to fire right up since he been sitting in garage for 6 months. The quad did nothing when I tried to start it. No clicks, no noise at all. I decided that I was gonna walk away from the deal but the guy acted like he really needed to get rid of it. I told him i wasnt interested since it showed no signs of life, We ended up striking a deal for a $20 bill and I thru the quad in my pick up and headed home.Once I got it home I removed the plastics and saw a wiring mess!!!! What first caught my eye was the fact that the ignition coil had be messed with( no place to put a key). I got to thinking that this quad might have been stolen?? The harness for the ignitoin is still intact but the front half where you insert the key has ben popped off and two wires are looped together??? So I remove all plastics from the atv to see what I am dealing with. Wires were scotched taped together!!!LOL Its just a soup pie!!
I am a pretty handy guy when it comes to cars and mowers a weedeaters, but I am no electrician! I reconnected as many of the wires as i could make sense of. I ieft off the headlights and taillights. Evrything else seemed to have a proper plug to attach to. Once I got everything hooked back up I decided I would clean the carb out. I did that with carb cleaner and complressed air. All jets were dirty! I replaced the carb and set the gas tak on the quad and hooked fuel lines back up. The next thing I noticed is that the ignitoin coil had been tampered with(no keys) and the quad still tries to turnover, I assumed that this quad had been stolen and sold to me.I hooked the carb back up to the quad and I was getting fuel to the carb but I wasnt getting any spark at all. At first I jumped the starter solenoid with a box end wrench, the engine turned over immediatley....small victory.....I then made sure that i was getting fuel to the carb and I was...Next check was for some spark. I installed a brand new plug and still no spark! I was pulling my hair out trying to figure out why!! I started to inspect the actual plug wire and it was slightly melted and one end was pulled out of the end that attached to my frame??? I shoved it back in there. still no spark! Now back to ignition switch with the front half missing where the key should be. I plug that back into the harness and the electric start buttum begins to turnt he motor over. I guess someone hot wired the ignition to not need a key to start. I do have a 7amp fuse after the battery but still no spark. WHat should I try first? I was going to order a new coil and ignition switch to see if that helps.This aTV has a 5 pin CDI but I am not sure what to do next. I see a complete wiring harness for the Hanma R5 for $135 which includes all but the stator! Is this the best route for me to go? The handlebar switche on the quad is painted black so I have no idea what they run or turn off. I know one should be a kill switch and the other is elect starter and the other for headlights?Where should I begin? new CDI, coil, ignition switch, new handlebar switches, stator?
Any help given wll be greatly appreciated.
I am a pretty handy guy when it comes to cars and mowers a weedeaters, but I am no electrician! I reconnected as many of the wires as i could make sense of. I ieft off the headlights and taillights. Evrything else seemed to have a proper plug to attach to. Once I got everything hooked back up I decided I would clean the carb out. I did that with carb cleaner and complressed air. All jets were dirty! I replaced the carb and set the gas tak on the quad and hooked fuel lines back up. The next thing I noticed is that the ignitoin coil had been tampered with(no keys) and the quad still tries to turnover, I assumed that this quad had been stolen and sold to me.I hooked the carb back up to the quad and I was getting fuel to the carb but I wasnt getting any spark at all. At first I jumped the starter solenoid with a box end wrench, the engine turned over immediatley....small victory.....I then made sure that i was getting fuel to the carb and I was...Next check was for some spark. I installed a brand new plug and still no spark! I was pulling my hair out trying to figure out why!! I started to inspect the actual plug wire and it was slightly melted and one end was pulled out of the end that attached to my frame??? I shoved it back in there. still no spark! Now back to ignition switch with the front half missing where the key should be. I plug that back into the harness and the electric start buttum begins to turnt he motor over. I guess someone hot wired the ignition to not need a key to start. I do have a 7amp fuse after the battery but still no spark. WHat should I try first? I was going to order a new coil and ignition switch to see if that helps.This aTV has a 5 pin CDI but I am not sure what to do next. I see a complete wiring harness for the Hanma R5 for $135 which includes all but the stator! Is this the best route for me to go? The handlebar switche on the quad is painted black so I have no idea what they run or turn off. I know one should be a kill switch and the other is elect starter and the other for headlights?Where should I begin? new CDI, coil, ignition switch, new handlebar switches, stator?
Any help given wll be greatly appreciated.
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