lt 80 bushings
#1
#2
lt 80 bushings
I've seen some mighty wore out LT,s and I've never seen a-arm bushings wear.I'm talking the bushings that bolt to the frame.
If your talking the spindle bushings: Just pull apart and replace the long tube.
The motor bushings are a lil more work. I prefer to remove the motor and heat the aluminum. Then press/drive the old bushing out. Reverse to install.
Suzuki sells the bushings. Haven't seen a replacement. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
If your talking the spindle bushings: Just pull apart and replace the long tube.
The motor bushings are a lil more work. I prefer to remove the motor and heat the aluminum. Then press/drive the old bushing out. Reverse to install.
Suzuki sells the bushings. Haven't seen a replacement. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
#3
lt 80 bushings
Originally posted by: LT80
The motor bushings are a lil more work. I prefer to remove the motor and heat the aluminum. Then press/drive the old bushing out. Reverse to install.
Suzuki sells the bushings. Haven't seen a replacement. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
The motor bushings are a lil more work. I prefer to remove the motor and heat the aluminum. Then press/drive the old bushing out. Reverse to install.
Suzuki sells the bushings. Haven't seen a replacement. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
#6
lt 80 bushings
im getting everything on the little lt powdercoated it dont help anything but give it a coustom look?? as for the price i have a friend that owns a buisness and i got it cheap......traded a little ac and heat work.......if anyone needs a part powdercoated pm me and i can get u a price thanks
#7
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#8
400 degrees for 10-15 min. is the norm. It really depends on the rubber if it will survive or not. The cush-drive on my Vmax (similar) survived two heat cycles before showing signs of heat damage...but that's the exception and generally not the rule. I'm PC'ing my son's LT and yes, I'm removing the rubber bushings...melted rubber make a nasty & toxic mess :P
Also, aluminum casting tend to be very porous...so I generally use an extended outgas cycle about 25 degrees higher than cure temp...so you're looking at 425 degrees for like an hour or so...
Frank
Also, aluminum casting tend to be very porous...so I generally use an extended outgas cycle about 25 degrees higher than cure temp...so you're looking at 425 degrees for like an hour or so...
Frank
#9
I pressed the bushings out when having frame powder coated. It's been awhile but believe I used a deep socket for pressing the bushing out and another deep socket to press the bushing into. Today, I would turn the cylinders to use for pressing.
I tried several methods but the press was the only one that worked.
I paid ~$300 for frame and four rims to be powder coated.
I tried several methods but the press was the only one that worked.
I paid ~$300 for frame and four rims to be powder coated.
#10
Yeah...I have a home-made bushing/bearing press...basically 2 sockets connected by a high grade bolt and thick washers...the smaller socket end will just fit on the outer edge of the bushing/bearing to be pulled, but smaller than the hole it seats in...the larger socket will be just larger than the exit hole...align carefully (you can heat around the bearing/bushing to aid in removal), then hit it with an impact gun...works like a charm...even on those tough engine case frame bushings...the push/pull action will ensure no cracked parts/cases...
$300 is a decent price and really depends on condition of the delivered parts as well as coats (base vs. base + clear)
$300 is a decent price and really depends on condition of the delivered parts as well as coats (base vs. base + clear)
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