if i had a fully modified clutch, i can't list all of the stuff but it's a good mod, what is he best gearing setup? we do some indoor,outdoor mx and hit the dunes?

 

IMO: clutch mods without motor work is all but useless.

 

why is that? all i have is a fmf pipe

 

My reasoning: The LT in stock form has pretty good low end. Without porting, the RPM's won't change with clutch mods. Rpm's is where you get the speed from (stock=6500, modded=9800). You can mod the rear clutch to allow more travel of the sliding face, but aside from that all the other clutch work I do will not help in any other area.
Clutch mods are for once the engine is modded.It's then that it takes clutch mods to let the clutch's work with the motor for optimum low/top power
The FMF is a good pipe for a stock machine. My expierience with them once the motor is modded is another story.
You can power a bigger front sprocket. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

I found this artical on clutches take the time to read all three parts there are some good diagrams worth keeping.
http://www.off-road.com/atv/kidskorner/clutching1.html

 

Could someone explain me what mods I can do to the front and the rear clutch ?

I think on the front one I can put out 2 rollers, but which one of the six ?

What can I do one the rear ?

Please explain it very exact, I am not a technical specialist.

Thanks

 

On the front you take out opposing rollers (across from the other).
On the rear, you need to cut the 3 shoes down to 180 grams each.
FYI:: the big nut is left handed thread.

http://www.nrys.com/fiche_select.asp
Go there to look at the parts blowup for the rear clutch...it's transmission 2...That should help on how to disassemble the rear clutch. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]