Sorry Jim, but I am at a loss here. Did you take the switches back apart? Did they look like I described. My son's doesn;t have running lihts (although I have wired lights in separately), so I can't comment on that.

 

In your last post, You said you have wired in lights separatly? Does this mean headlights? If so how did ya do it? Straight to the battery with a switch? Any way I have been fooling around with the switches for a while now but the same thing is happining. The 90cc,I can't seem to get that pin very straight? I was thinking of putting headlights on them as it will soon be dark here very early. Days are getting shorter real fast. They both go back to school on Tues. so I will have more time to work on them. Have a good weekend and stay in touch. Jim.........

 

Spike99 is the master of all thing electrical on these 90s from my reading. You can search around to find posts from him that will tell you far more than I ever could.

I added a 35 watt automotive fog light on the 'hood' of the Predator and an auto side marker light to the existing Predator light housing. They were wired through an auto solenoid using a tap on a switched wire from the Predator to power the solenoid.

here are links to posts on how other folks have done this.

http://forums.atvconnection.com/mess...hreadid=438953

http://forums.atvconnection.com/mess...did/389296.cfm

 

I was thinking about using a headlight from a 120cc XC Polaris snowmachine,my daughter used to have one and it seems to be the same size opening as the Scrambler. And I am sure the charging system should be able to take it.What do ya think? Jim.....

 

Thanks for the positive kartattack. Much appreciated.


Yes, we installed DRLs on our '03 Pred-90. I'd do it again - without hesitation.


At first, we installed a single 35W "clear lens" automotive fog light in the center of the hood. It looked "ok" but being 35W, it eventually drained the battery. Besides that, the single like didn't work very well in sunset or our extreme dark bush trails. Yes, it could shine forward but many young riders keep their eyes at the less then 1- feet distance. Especially in the slow technical bush trails. A single light on the hood doesn't shine on the "sides" of the bush trails very well. My son would often call those areas "his blind spots". Thus, I upgraded to something better.


We then replaced the single light with a 2 x MR-11 lights. Mounted to MR-11 lights in the 2nd hole on the shock mounts. Picked these lights up at local K-Mark - for less price then our single light. The MR-11 automotive fog lights came with 20W bulbs. We replaced these bulbs with 10W bulbs - for daytime running lights. Sometimes, I remove one 10W bulb and replace with a 20W bulb. If wondering, its always best to stay under 32 Watt "total" consumption. The Polaris 90 stator only pumps out a MAX of 12V / 32-36 Watts. Most are closer to 32 Watts (MAX). To stay under 32 Watts, I also replaced the factory tail light with a better light assembly. And, installed an 1157 LED combo tail / brake light. LEDs have use less watts compared to a standard 1157 conventtional bulb.

To connect the lights, simply run a 14 guage automotive wire to the battery "+" post. Within 6" of the battery, install an inline fuse. Run a wire from the fuse to a manual off/on switch. From the switch, run a wire to the front light(s). From the other wire on the light(s), run a 14 guarge wire to frame (for frame ground). You can install the manual switch in a location you feel is best. For us, we removed the OI LED light (on the dash) and installed a 12V toggle switch in the factory hole. As a suggestion, the 14 guarge wire should be red (from battery to Switch), blue, green or yellow from the switch to its light(s) and use black from the lights to the frame ground. Thus, one can quickly identify which wire is what. Although, any color of 14 guage automotive wire will work. For fuse size, take total watts on the 14 guage wire, divide by 12, then round up to the nearest available fuse size. We use a 5 amp fuse in our Pred-90.

For lots of pictures, surf: http://rides.webshots.com/album/283371980xEWfck

Note: In addition to the manual off/on switch, you can also install a Relay. Thus, the DRLS go "off" when its ignition key is off. This advanced wiring configu is more cost and time to install but might be worth it in the long run. For a wiring diagram of a Relay system, surf:

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2833...52910875xURZQx
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2833...52910875nAlTyF


If wondering, we have a Relay configuration with manual off/on toggle switch in our Pred-90. Great system and never had any problems with it.


Hope this helps as well....

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Hey Spike99, thanks for the info!Still wondering if a headlight from a 120cc xcpolaris sled will work the same. It looks like it will fit right in to the opening where the fake headlight is? Thanks again. Jim......

 

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Sorry. Don't know what the light on an "120cc xcpolaris sled" looks like. Haven't seen one before. But if like most sleds, their front light is probably 65 - 75 Watts. Our, could have an Low-High beam type bulb. If so, do ensure its 12V Watts usage is below 32 watts. Or, it will drain the battery or "over stress" the power generation system on your Polaris 90.

Also, I find "double lights" are much better for DRLs. For some reason, one can better judge distance of an oncoming object much better if that object has 2 lights - instead of a single light. If you can, do try to install 2 x DRLs assemblies on your Polaris unit.

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