Hello,

I just want to start a thread concerning my 7 year old son's new Giovanni 110cc Mini Hummer. I purchased it from allstarsalez on Ebay. I won the auction Saturday morning and it was at my doorstep Tuesday afternoon...Talk about fast shipping, mind you, I live in Victoria, BC...just a ferry ride away from Vancouver...but nonetheless!

Upon opening the two cartons, my first concern was the misc. hardware (blots/washers/nuts etc.) strewn about the bottom of the boxes...I'll keep my fingers crossed that its all there, but I do know the cotter pins for the wheels were missing.

While removing the plastic overtop the ATV, I noticed that the front handlebars, which are laying over the front cowl for shipping purposes had severly scratched the camouflage green paint down to bare plastic, which was quite disheartening. I have emailed allstarsalez and I will let you all know the outcome.

So I continued to remove the packing materials to further expose the bike. The ATV is secured to a metal shipping frame which has to be removed with basic tools.

Once everything was out, a quick inspection showed everything else seemed to be in order...there was a bit of oil on the cardboard box underneath the rear sprocket area, but I am assuming it was lubrication for the chain.

I wanted to put the wheels on first so I could get the bike off of its frame. At first, I was a bit stumped attempting to put the rear wheels on...I know, sounds crazy eh?...then I noticed that the rear single-piece axle was pushed about 3/4 inches to the left...out came the rubber mallet and I centered the axle so that the axle was even on both sides. After that, it was straight forward. I inspected the plastic/rubber (?) bearing races pressed into the front wheels...they were not quite put in correctly, so I attempted to somewhat force them in with a scrap piece of wood and my trusty rubber mallet...helped a bit, but not perfect. I'll keep my fingers crossed again that they do not fail. For now I will leave the cotter pins off until I can get out and get some new ones before my son rides.

At this point I have put the wheels on, connected the battery (ground is left off) and have completely removed the one piece cowl in hopes of getting a replacement from allstarsalez. Removing the cowl was somewhat a pain in the butt, especially trying to get the handle bars through the opening without having to disconnect every line...It can be done though! Be very careful when removing the head and taillights...just little screws, that screw into what seems brittle plastic on the underside of the cowling.

Some points I have discovered...I do not need to purchase a fuel filter, there is one already in place, but I will replace the cheap wire clamps with proper clamps for the fuel lines.

The nuts from the cowling are self locking, so I am hoping that Giovanni has addressed the loose bolts issue with more throughout, I will have to check...otherwise, I will Loctite most bolts.

I took the air filter off to check for the gelpacks...didn't see any.

Temporarily hooked up the battery to see if it had juice...lights works...and I quickly sparked the starter just out of curiosity and again, it spun. Good news so far.

I have purchased the NGK sparkplug, will replace the LG sparkplug right away.

I do have a few questions though if any body could help out, I would appreciate it.

1. When adjusting the tie rods to eliminate the toe-in, how tight do I tighten the nuts on either end of the adjusting rod?
2. I bought Quaker State 15W40 "diesel" oil (For heavy duty diesel engines)...is this really what you are using for engine oil? Seems odd. I will be changing the oil prior to final ignition (!!!) and once again after approx. 1.5 hrs riding time. I haven't seen an oil filter yet!
3. What PSI are you running in the tires? (16X8.00-7)

I'm sure I will have more questions and I will continue with this thread with all of my observations, whether they are good or bad.

By the way, can I attach pics in the thread? I have taken photos of the boxes and the way they are shipped in the metal frame, etc.

Bil Attridge
Victoria, BC

 

You can upload pictures in the "My page " section.. As far a diesel oil??? If it's a 4 stroke gasoline engine.. I would think you should run regular SAE ATV/gasoline engine oil.... After a good long break in, maybe use a good synthetic oil because it will help reduce engine temp while riding.. Note: Synthetic oil is much thinner than regular engine oil, that's why you run regular oil until it's broken in.. The regular oil will let the gaskets settle/expand etc... Then you can switch to synthetic... If you start out using synthetic oil, you risk a very good chance of the bike leaking oil...

Found a video of your purchase.
Very Cool Video

 

Thanks for the info on Synthetic oil...The only 15w40 oil I can find so far is diesel engine oil...15w40 is what Giovanni recommends.

Bil

 

Did some checking... Really couldn't find 15w 40 4 stroke atv oil, but found...

Valvoline atv oil 10w 40.. You can also get it in 20w 50...

My bad.. 15w 40 should be fine... I guess it really works in both diesel and gasoline engines... Ok.. I'm stupid when it come to diesel engines.. oils etc...lol The link is for synthetic blend oil, but the regular oil should work the same as far as diesel/gasoline engines..
Found this bit of info for ya.

 

By the way...this thread is also on the Giovanni Forums website:

Giovanni Forums

Bil

 

I took the carb off and removed the bowl...no gelpack. Anyhow, I have an emergency question;

I filled the tank up with gas and was just about to fire it up for the first time until I saw gas pouring out from under the bike...A quick check around and discovered that the gas was flowing from the line that runs from the carb bowl. This line doesn't attach anywhere. Is it supposed to? Also, there is a line that comes out of the side of the carb that doesn't attach anywhere. Is that supposed to too? Please help, I have a nail in the line to keep it blocked!!!

Bil

 

The line coming from the bowl of the carb is a drain tube. It does not connect to anything, but there should be a flat tipped screw near it that you will need to tighten up to shut the drain off. The other hose is most likely a vent line and shouldn't be attached to anything either. If you can post some pics, we will know for sure. But screw in the bowl screw and turn that drain off!!!

 

I thought the line on the bottom of carb bowl could be an overflow for the bowl. When you removed bowl from carb did the needle valve attatched to float fall out? you can try tapping lightly on carb bowl first with a screwdriver handle to possibly seat needle valve first to solve problem. If that dont work pull bowl back off+ inspect the float needle valve for obstructions, you may have to loosten carb throat clamps so you can turn carb enough to see up inside float area. There is a pin that can be removed that holds float to inside of bowl and the needle valve is attatched to the float with a small piece of bent wire that moves the needle in and out of the gas supply port. This should give ya an idea of what to look for. As for the hose on the side of the carb I couldn,t be shure without looking at it. Look at the length of the hose and see if there are any open ports on the carb it reach and will plug onto. Or someone else may know exactly what it is ment for. Good luck

 

godilovetoride, I like your quote, I realise I just gave sombody the wrong advise. Your explanation sounds a hell of a lot more sensible than mine, sorry dude

 

no prob, we are all in here for the same reason.