Hello everyone.
I have been having a problem with the kids 90r Eton. It has the electronic shift cvt. No external linkage. When it gets warmed up if you shift it out of forward when you shift it back it dies. I can get it to go into reverse, but not forward.
Now this part is kinda hard to explain so bear with me. While holding the clutch in you can shift it into forward. When you let it out it dies. Not necessarily immediatly but just whenever the tranny shifts. There is a shift light on the (pod?). As soon as it tries to light it ends up as a blink. It will stay running with the clutch out until the tranny engages and the light tries to light. I did, the other day while riding get it to engage by pushing on the bike as I shifted it. Don't know if that really helped or not. I wouldn't let them take it out of gear till we were done riding. I haven't tried it again since with my limited riding space here at home.
The bike is a 2005 viper 90r. 2 stroke. I just got the bike used at a dealership. It has only really been out a couple of times. I have ran it up and down the allyway and never had any problems. We took it out to a school yard but never took it out of gear the whole time there. When I finally got a chance to get it out to the state park is where I first noticed the problem. We monkey'd around with it for quite some time but couldn't figure it out and decided it must need some carb work. I got it home and cleaned the carb out and the air filter which looked like it had never been cleaned before. Put it all back together and ran it up and down the ally again. It ran better than before (suprise suprise). So we took it back down to the park and it started the whole thing again.

It ran like a top after that, but it shuts down like a switch has been thrown when you try to get it into gear after it gets warmed up. So I really don't believe it's the carb anymore. It almost has to be something electrical. Some kinda switching malfunction.

To top it off after it died one time there was a little mishap towing it back (long story) and I had to replace the steering shaft. It has been a little while since I took it all apart, but now that I'm trying to get it back together I must be missing something big that needs to be plugged back in. I can jump the starter and it will run, but I have to use the key to kill the motor. It won't shift, honk horn, nothing......oh wait the headlights work. I won't be able to touch it again till the weekend. I think I have a wiring diagram.

The original problem is my main concern. I'm sure I've probably just blown a fuse or missed a connection for the rest. Any suggestions?

 

Make sure the idle is not set to high. Idle must be below 3200 RPM before shifting or engine will die. You also have to have rear brake lever applied to shift between any gear. You may also want to test the left hand brake safety switch for continuity, the switch is normally open Brake lights should deactivate is the lead is unplugged. Teat for continuity when brake lever is applied by probing the switch leads. You may also want to check the code on the end of the CDI box. If the code doesn't end with "M3" replace the CDI (example 50219M3). You may also want to check the sensors on the shift mechanism at the motor, there are 3 sensors together the top is reverse, the center is neutral, the bottom is forward. There is also a sensor on top of the motor above the others which is the shift drum neutral position sensor. To test have key on, ignition switch on, apply LH brake and place shifter in F, probe the F sensor to ground and check for continuity, if none exist replace sensor, do this test with F, N, R, by testing each sensor with shift switch set at each set gear. When checking N test both nuetral switches. If these don,t work you will need to test selector switch, ignition switch, and shift motor. Also make sure all you connections between everything is good and clean.

 

About the having to turn off with key. Do you have the remote kill system installed, which has a remote like your car alarm would? These where an option,
if you don't you need to make sure the wires that would connect to the remote reciever are looped ( connected to one another) the wires are white/black to brown/yellow. If you do have remote system test by bypassing the remote reciever switch by connecting the two leads together (white/black to brown/yellow). It does sound like you just have a wiring issue or a component unplugged or bad component. Just go down the list and test each component and its connections one at a time till you find the culprit.

 

Try this website
http://www.anythingatv.com/Tec...l/Troubleshooting.htm

I knida had the same problem...my pickup gap setting which is suppose to be at .025 inch was more like .029 and it would run sometimes and when it did run I would want to shift it and it would die. I went ahead and printed this whole section out for future refrence. Good luck

 

Thanks for the fast reply's. I'm glad I finally found this site. I've been beating my head against the wall for some time now. It will be at least the weekend before I can try any of your suggestions, but I will keep you posted. Thanks......

 

You know it might be crazy but you may want to check for a wire that is bare that could be shorting out, so to say acting as a kill switch. It may be the light that is on your pod that is shorting out. just some things to look for, these electrical gremlins can be very frustrating. It doesn't sound like a carb problem to me. I think that I am glad I have a Viper with out reverse. I have seen other postings on here with the ViperR. Good luck

 

I got to do some tinkering with the bike today. Like I figured my secondary problems were from a blown fuse. I have all the plastic off and all the wiring is just hanging everywhere. When I turned the key on the dash lights didn't come on. I had to move the key back and forth a little till I found the sweet spot. Also I had before thought it was the brake switch so that is disconnected and just twisted together to ensure contact. Boom...... it started right up. I let it warm up for awhile and then put it in gear. Everything seems to be working as long as I put the key switch in the right place. So I have ordered a new brake sensor, and a new key switch. That will knock out 2 items that seem to be bad. I guess it's about time to start putting the bike back together. Spring break is coming up and they are dying to go riding. I'll keep everyone updated as I figure things out.