KAZUMA Meerkat 50
KAZUMA Meerkat 50 - 4A
Model year 2005
Electrical system overview
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KAZUMA Meerkat 50
Index
1. Main components
1.1 Battery and main fuse
1.2 Ignition switch
1.3 LH Handle bar switch assembly
1.4 Safety switch at the back
1.5 Safety switch on left
1.6 Starter motor relay, starter motor
1.7 Magneto
1.8 Voltage regulator
1.9 CDI unit, ignition coil
1.10 Headlight
2. Visible connectors in wiring harness
3. Wiring diagram
3.1 Wire colors in diagram
3.2 Location numbers
4. Tips for basic troubleshooting
4.1 Battery voltage
4.2 Charge voltage, charge current
4.3 Starter motor relay, starter motor
4.4 Ignition spark, ignition coil
4.5 Crank trigger
4.6 CDI unit
5. Wiring diagram
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1 Main components
1.1 Battery and main fuse (Owners Manual page 21, picture 10)
12 Volt liquid electrolyte battery is installed at rear beneath the fender. The battery
consists of 6 separate approx. 2 Volt cells connected in series thus producing 12 Volt
system. The service plugs for the battery are tight fit and because of this it is difficult
to check/add electrolyte. The battery is considered service free.
The main fuse is (10A / 250V) is located close to battery positive terminal. It is
important to notice that the fuse only protects the ignition and charging circuit. The
starter circuit is not protected anyhow. There is also an extra fuse in the housing for
main fuse.
Ground connection to battery negative terminal is through green wire, chassis is not
grounded.
1.2 Ignition switch (Owners Manual pages 15 and 20, picture 01)
Ignition switch has 3 key positions, 0, 1st and 2nd. In...
0 position the engine cannot be started, the battery will not discharge. This is
normal state when the ATV is parked.
1st position the engine can be started. Headlight cannot be switched on. The battery
may discharge if ATV is left without engine running for extended period of time.
2nd position the headlight can be switched on when the engine runs. Otherwise same
as position 1.
Inside the ignition switch 3 connections are switched according to the key position.
Ignition switch in different key positions.
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In...
0 position: black/white is connected to ground (green)
red is not connected to black
yellow is not connected to yellow/white
1st black/white is not connected to ground (green)
red is connected to black
yellow is not connected to yellow/white
2nd black/white is not connected to ground (green)
red is connected to black
yellow is connected to yellow/white
1.3 LH Handle bar switch assembly (Owners Manual page 20, picture 02)
There are 2 kinds of LH Handle bar switches installed. This document and wiring
diagram is based on the following setup.
1. Engine cut out switch:
2. Light switch:
3. Start button:
LH Handle bar switch.
1. Engine cut out switch connects black/white to green when the switch is in upper
position. Engine turns off when black/white is grounded.
2. Ignition switch connects yellow wire (from magneto) to yellow/white when
ignition key is turned to 2nd position. Thus power for headlight is available when
engine runs. When positioned left or right the light switch connects yellow /white
wire to blue thus supplying headlight with power. Inside the LH handle bar switch
is pink wire that only connects the left and right switch positions.
3. When applied the start button grounds the yellow/red wire thus activating the
starter relay. The starter relay then connects the black cable (for starter motor) and
red cable (from battery positive terminal) and runs the starter motor. Inside the LH
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handle bar switch there is also a grey/white wire that grounds when start button is
pressed.
The other possible setup for the LH Handle bar switch is:
1. Headlight switch
2. Engine cut out switch
3. Start button
Although not confirmed the basic function this setup is most likely similar to the
version described above.
1.4 Safety switch at the back (Owners Manual page 21, picture 08)
Safety switch may be activated by a supervisor walking behind the quad. Easiest way
is to use cord attached to the switch.
Safety switch at the back.
The switch grounds the yellow/green wire when the switch plunger is pulled out. The
following wires are grounded due to internal connections in wiring harness:
- blk/wh on LH handle bar switch assembly
- blk/wh on ignition switch
- blk/wh on CDI unit
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1.5 Safety switch on left
Safety switch on left.
If taken out it disconnects the primary current circuit for ignition coil. Without
primary current supplied by the CDI unit the ignition coil can not produce secondary
voltage (high voltage) needed for ignition spark.
This switch should be connected to the rider so that in case the rider falls off or stands
up on the quad the engine is turned off.
1.6 Starter motor relay, starter motor (Owners Manual page 21, picture 07)
The starter motor relay is separated from the starter motor itself, the relay is located
under the seat/rear fender on left side of the rear coil spring. Relay includes a coil and
plunger. Current flowing through the coil creates a magnetic field that moves the
plunger thus connecting the power to starter motor.
Starter motor relay
A common problem for vehicles not operated frequently is sticking relay. If this
happens the relay does not make "clicking" noise and connect main power for starter
motor. Usually the plunger can be released by gently knocking the relay. The relay
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may work for a long time (if the quad is used regularly) but sometimes it is necessary
to replace the relay.
Resistance of the starter relay coil should be approx. 4
. Resistance can be checked
easily by connecting a multimeter between yellow/green and yellow/red wires.
Probably the easiest place for connecting multimeter is connection in front of steering
shaft. Usually faulty coil has too much of a resistance.
Starter motor, that is located above the engine, is normal electric motor (like the ones
used in cars). Inside the motor are the coils for stator and rotor/anchor as well as
brushes and commutator. As the cranking current flow through the coil a magnetic
field is created, this field turns the rotor/anchor and crank the engine. The starter
motor is connected to the crankshaft by means of a roller chain.
Starter motor
The resistance of the components inside the starter motor determines the current taken
while cranking. Insufficient cranking speed is usually caused by voltage drop
somewhere in the starter motor circuit. Bad connections or damaged wire are the most
common reasons for voltage drop. Too small wire diameter also causes problems, this
is due the fact that the voltage drop increases as the current rises. Starting current goes
up to 30 A when cranking at temperatures about 80-85 Fahrenheit. The current needed
is higher when engine is colder and vise versa.
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1.7 Magneto (Owners Manual page 21, picture 09)
Magneto
Magneto is located behind the left side cover of the engine. Magneto supplies the
electrical power when engine is running, power for cranking is supplied by the battery.
Magneto consists of a permanent magnet (inner circle of flywheel) and inductive coils
1, 2 and 3. The output/charging voltage is regulated by a separate voltage regulator
under the right front fender. Charging current fluctuates between approx. 1 -3 Amp
depending on engine rpms.
Electrical components in magneto.
Coil 1 supplies power for the headlight. The voltage is regulated to approx. 11,5 Volts.
Current flows in yellow wire. Nominal resistance for coil 1 is approx. 0,3
.
Coil 2 is basically the same coil but with longer winding. White wire provides voltage
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that is regulated to approx. 13,6 Volts. Nominal resistance for coil 2 is approx. 0,5
.
Coil 3 is used for CDI unit and is located above the coil ˝. Nominal resistance for this
coil is approx. 0,35 k
. Voltage in black/red wire varies between -145 up to 225 Volts
when engine idles. This high voltage is needed for charging the electronics inside the
CDI unit.
Crank trigger is needed for ignition timing. CDI unit needs to know when ignition
spark should be released, this information is obtained by means of inductive
sender/sensor behind the left side cover. Sender includes a permanent magnet and coil,
on the outer circle of flywheel You can find the timing tooth. When tooth passes by
the sender magnetic field changes and induces a voltage that is recognized by the CDI
unit. Sender has 2 wires, blue/white for signal and green for grounding.
Nominal resistance for crank trigger coil is approx. 1,25 k
. Although the sender
signal should be checked with an oscilloscope it can also be checked to some extent
with multimeter.
1.8 Voltage regulator (Owners Manual page 20, picture 03)
Voltage regulator
Voltage regulator is an electronic device that adjusts the system voltage to an adequate
level. System voltage needs to be higher than battery voltage so that charging is
possible. In addition, magneto output voltage needs to produce current that is sufficient
for ignition system and headlight as well as to keep up the state of charge of the
battery.
Voltage regulator is supplied with battery voltage through the red wire. This power is
needed for the electronics inside the regulator. The regulator cuts down the voltages in
the yellow and white wires. There are 2 regulated voltage levels, approx. 11,5 V for
headlight and approx. 13,6 V for charging the battery.
Grounding for the voltage regulator is through green wire.
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1.9 CDI unit, ignition coil (Owners Manual page 21, pictures 05, 06)
CDI stands for Capacitive Discharge Ignition. It is an electronically controlled system
using a circuit board and electronics in a sealed housing that is not meant to be opened
or repaired. CDI unit can be found below the fuel tank on right side.
CDI unit
CDI is widely used in small engines because of its ability to keep up sufficient power
for ignition spark (enough Watts) in higher engine speeds for example. In more
sophisticated systems, maps for ignition timing can also be stored in CDI unit making
therefore mechanical advance adjustment systems out of date.
In principal, CDI is simple, the unit charges a capacitor that is then discharged very
fast through ignition coil. Yellow/black wire is used for primary current for ignition
coil. Crank trigger provides correct timing for ignition. Wires for crank trigger are
blue/white and green. Sensor is located behind the left engine cover.
As all electronic devises, CDI unit needs power and ground, most likely black/red and
green are the colors. There is no direct connection between the battery and CDI unit so
power must be supplied by the inductive coil 3 in magneto.
Ignition coil
Ignition coil is located under the rear fender on right side of the quad. It actually has
two coils, primary and secondary. When CDI unit discharges through primary winding
a magnetic field is created around the coils. When the field collapses induction causes
higher voltage in secondary winding that is then grounded through spark plug.
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Normal value for primary resistance is approx. 0,4
and for secondary 9,7 k
.
Spark plug specification according to Owners manual is:
D8EA, NGK C7HSA (or equivalent), spark plug gap 0.024 - 0.028 in (0.6-0.7 mm)
1.10 Headlight (Owners Manual page 20, picture 04)
Never work on the bulb right after it has been switched off. Halogen bulbs are very
hot and under pressure, working on them might cause them to "explode". When
changing the bulb do not touch the glass, greasy fingerprint might cause the bulb
failure right after it has been changed.
Ignition switch supplies yellow/white wire with voltage when ignition key is turned
into 2nd key position. When positioned left or right light switch connects the yellow
/white wire with blue and thus supplies the bulb with power.
The headlight is complete unit when provided as a spare part.
2 Visible connectors in wiring harness
The following connectors are described in the Owners Manual provided upon the
purchase of the ATV. The connectors are not identical for all ATVs´, connectors X and
Y for example may vary.
Connector Location Wires for
A 9 pin in front of steering shaft ignition switch
B 4 pin under the right front fender voltage regulator
C 6 pin under the fuel tank, right CDI-unit
E 2 pin under the fuel tank starter motor relay
H 1 pin starter motor relay main power for starter motor relay
P 1 pin on battery fuse box, fuse for ignition circuit
S 1 pin multiple locations -
X 2 pin in front of steering shaft LH handle bar switch
Y 3 pin in front of steering shaft LH handle bar switch
Z 5 x 1 pin under the fuel tank magneto
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The pictures above show some connectors used in the quad. Single wire connectors are
covered with rubber whereas plastic connectors are open for moisture and dirt.
In addition to the connectors mentioned above the wiring harness includes several
internal connections. Approximate locations for these internal connections are
described in section 3.2.
3 Wiring diagram
3.1 Wire colors in diagram
The wire colors in the diagram are as follows:
bl blue
blk black
gn green
gr grey
re red
wh white
ye yellow
Combined colors are marked as: yellow/white ye/wh
The main color of the wire comes first while the latter shows the color of the stripe.
The yellow/white wire is yellow and it has white stripe in it.
The cross section of the wire is not shown in this document. In case You need to
replace wires You should use the same gauge wire, NEVER USE SMALLER
DIAMETER THAN ORIGINAL. Using smaller cross section (or bigger gauge
number) wire may cause a malfunction and in extreme situation even a fire.
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3.2 Location numbers in wiring diagram
Wiring harness includes:
. several separate single wire connectors that are rubber covered, these
are shown in Owners Manual as H, P, S and Z connectors
. 6 white connectors, made of plastic, these are referred as A, B, C, E, X
and Y in the Owners Manual
. 7 connections inside the wiring harness, these are not shown in Owners
Manual.
The following location numbers help You to find certain components and/or
connections more easily. The numbers are also shown in the wiring diagram close to
the component/connection.
1. connection above starter motor, inside the harness
2. connector A (white, 9 pin) in front of steering shaft
3. connection above starter motor, inside the harness
4. connector below the fuel tank, rubber covering
5. connection above starter motor inside the harness
6. connection close to the ignition coil inside the harness
7. connection approx. 8 inches from battery negative terminal, inside the
harness
8. connector close to the rear suspension upper attaching bolt
9. connector Y (white, 3 pin) in front of steering shaft
10. connector X (white, 2 pin) in front of steering shaft
11. connection under the fuel tank, inside the harness
12. connection close to ignition coil, inside the harness
13. connector in front of rear suspension, rubber covering
14. connector E (white, 2 pin) under the fuel tank
15. connector in front of steering shaft, rubber covering
Location numbers.
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4 Tips for basic troubleshooting
4.1 Battery voltage
Measure the voltage with ignition switch in 0. Correct reading for fully charged
battery is about 12 V or more. If voltage is less charge the battery and try again.
If "static" battery voltage is OK but the engine will not crank it is necessary to
measure the voltage when start button is applied. So switch the ignition to the 1st or 2nd
position and press start button (do not forget the cut off switch). The battery voltage
should be more than 10 V. The values might at first be as low as 8 - 9 V but after of a
second or few sets to 11 V for example. If voltage drops too low, charge the battery
and try again.
4.2 Starter motor relay, starter motor
If the starter motor relay does not "click" when start button is applied the problem
most likely is not the starter motor itself. When ignition is switched on black wire is
supplied with power, battery, fuse and ignition switch need to be OK of course.
Power reaches starter motor relay through the connectors A and E. The circuit closes
through connector E and Start button on LH Handle bar switch assy. When the circuit
is ok (wires, connectors and switches) the relay "clicks" when ignition key is in 1st or
2nd position and start button is applied.
In case "clicking" sound is clear but starter motor does not crank the engine check the
following:
- battery voltage, maybe there is not enough capacity to run the starter motor.
- wirings and connections according to the diagram (power supply and
grounding). Pay attention to oxidation in connections and crushed/partly cut
wires, these will cut down the voltage and restrict current flow. You may also
try with jump wires for positive and negative side.
- in case everything is ok the starter motor might be faulty or engine seized/too
hard to turn (freewheel stuck, engine damaged etc.)
With fully charged battery starting current is approx. 30 A. When cranking speed has
settled the amperage goes down to 10-15 A.
4.3 Charge voltage, charge current
Charging voltage is supplied by the coil 2, the voltage is regulated to approx. 13,5 - 14
V. When engine idles battery voltage should be close to regulated values, switching
headlight on drops the voltage by approx. 0,5 V. Note that coil 1 supplies the headlight
and is regulated to approx. 11,5 V.
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Oscillograph for regulated headlight voltage.
Charging current measurement requires an appropriate multimeter, not all can do the
job. The following method is called in-line measurement. You need a multimeter that
is ok for 5 Amps at least. The charging current is approx .1 A at idle and 3 A at higher
rpms. If throttle is not restricted the current might get somewhat higher than 3A.
1. detach positive battery cable
2. connect multimeters negative probe to the positive battery terminal and
positive probe to battery cable
3. connect the battery cable to terminal, just hold the cable on terminal
4. start up the engine, switch the headlight on
5. detach battery cable from terminal (multimeter stays connected)
This way charging current is being measured while flowing through the multimeter.
Multimeter needs to be strong enough to handle current put through it. That is why
You need to BE AWARE OF THE MAX IN-LINE CURRENT FOR THE DEVICE
You are using. In worst scenario the device and ignition system gets damaged.
You may also use current measuring "pliers", this is a safe and an easy way. Put
measuring probe to the battery positive cable so that arrow points towards the battery
terminal. Start up the engine and switch the headlight on. Device shows the charge
amperage.
Charge current measurement.
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In both methods a positive value tells that the battery is really being charged, a
negative value means discharging. If the value is close to 0 Amp, the magneto can only
support the ignition system and headlight, there are no resources for charging the
battery. This might be due to several problems, a voltage drop somewhere in wiring
harness or a faulty magneto to mention a few.
4.4 Ignition spark, ignition coil
If the engine cranks but does not start up a problem might in ignition system. Engine
basically needs only fuel, air and properly timed ignition spark. Ignition spark can
easily be checked by removing the spark plug from the cylinder head, connecting
spark plug cable and cranking the engine. Threaded part of the spark plug needs to
touch the engine. DO NOT HOLD BY HAND, You might get a "shock". You should
be able to see sparking.
In case spark is missing the cause might be in ignition coil for example. Although
complete check-up of ignition system requires an oscilloscope, something can be done
with multimeter.
Resistance in primary coil is approx. 0,4
. For measuring connect probes to
yellow/black of the coil and ground, coil mounting for example. The secondary
resistance is approx. 9,7 k
. It can be measured by connecting ohm-meter to
yellow/black and spark plug cable. The cable can not be separated from the coil itself.
Proper ignition figure for primary circuit is shown below. The voltage is higher in
secondary coil as well as in primary circuit at higher rpm´s.
Ignition coil primary voltage, engine idling.
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4.5 Crank trigger
Crank trigger is needed for correct ignition timing. Sensor should be checked with
oscilloscope, sensor signal should be something like this. In the following picture,
measuring probes bad ground connection caused fluctuating voltage between the
signals.
Crank trigger signal.
The voltage change is too rapid for being measured with multimeter. There are also
other methods.
If a multimeter is to be used, first measure the resistance of the coil, it should be
approx. 1,25 k
. While measuring move metallic piece nearby the sensor, resistance
value should change when piece passes by the sensor. Be aware that this method is not
"bullet proof" and diagnose may not be correct in all cases. Sensor can not be fixed,
faulty sensor needs to be replaced.
4.6 CDI unit
CDI unit is pretty much an item that can not be checked anyhow. If everything else is
ok but ignition spark is missing the reason might as well be in CDI unit. CDI is one of
the most expensive components of electrical system. CDI needs the following...
. ground gn connection to battery negative terminal
. crank trigger bl/wh timing of ignition spark (also needs ground)
. coil 3 re/blk for producing primary current in ignition coil
. ignition circuit ye/blk for coil, cable, spark plug,
grounding through plug thread and engine block
In addition to this black/white wire shall not be grounded unless safety switch at the
back and cut off switch are applied. The resistance for coil 3 is approx. 0,35 k
. It can
be measured at connections above the engine. These 5 connectors for magneto are
covered with rubber.
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Oscillographs for coil 3 show the difference in induction while cranking and idling the
engine.
Coil 3 induction, engine cranking. Coil 3 induction, engine idling.
Note that the V/Div levels are different in the oscillographs. While cranking the
engine voltage rises to approx. 40 V whereas at idle voltages close to 230 V are
normal. This is due to induction that depends on engine rpms. According to the signals
the engine cranks approx. at 700 rpm whereas idle is close to 1650 rpm.
5 Wiring diagram
(See next page)
THIS DOCUMENT IS ONLY AN OVERVIEW, NOT A MANUAL OF ANY KIND.
TO THE BEST OF MY KNOWLEDGE THIS INFORMATION IS CORRECT.
I SHALL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY CLAIMS ORIGINATED FROM THE USE OF THIS DOCUMENT.
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magneto
ye/wh
gn
ign.sw
gn
blk
re
+
BAT
-
F
A 9 pin
voltage
regulator
starter
motor
wh
ign
coil
C
CDI
blk
re
re
1
7
spark
plug
4
gn
E 2 pin
LH
handle
bar sw.
assy
ye/re
Y 3 pin
ye/re
safety
sw
back
safety
sw
left side
6
head
light
gn
gn
gn
gn
5
8
blk
blk
gn
ye
ye/wh
blk/wh
B
3 ye
4
bl
blk/wh
13 12 11
X 2 pin
ye/gn
re/blk
ye/blk
4
bl/wh
ye/blk
4 4 4 4
14
9
blk/wh
18
wh
bl
15
ye/gn
connector (plastic)
and location nr.
wire color
component
Internal connection
in wiring harness
and location nr.
connector (rubber)
location nr.
4
16
ye/gn
10
2
starter
relay
11
gn
4
blk
/re
KAZUMA Meerkat 50
ALWAYS WEAR PROTECTIVE GEAR WHEN RIDING
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Hi can you please tell me why my Chinese 50cc starts with key at "0" but not on 1 or 2? Thanks so much