LT80 rear clutch removal.
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I have not cut my shoes yet. I saw a post here where a guy said he had pics in his profile, but I searched and could not find them. The link below shows shoes that have been drilled but not cut. I think they are using the higher tension "red springs" that I have read about. I think this will at least give you an idea of what's going on. Also I would like to mention that this picture is NOT representative of what Mr. Lt80 has told us to do on these forums. His directions were clear to cut the end of the shoe off 3/8" from the end of the pad and then drill the shoe until it weighs exactly 180 grams. All 3 shoes must be exactly the same. I hope to be doing this in the next couple of weeks. When I do I will post back with pics.
[hetrick racing, inc.]
[hetrick racing, inc.]
#15
Thanks for the picture. I'd really like to see a pic of what LT80 has done to his clutch shoes. By drilling a bunch of holes along the whole shoe would have a different effect than just off of the end. It would be further away from the pivot point in my mind so by drilling the way in the link I would think that they would be taking more off to get the same effect as just off of the end furthest from the pivot point. I guess what I don't understand is it 3/8" off of the end that overlaps on the next shoe or the smaller notched bracing on the underside of the overlapping point on the shoe?
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I'm not going to comment on the shocks seeins I've not tested them or know someone who has. I did see where someone had them on but w/o a pic.....
Air box: no reason to make it so more air flows, you've not done anything to require more flow. besides, my motors can turn 12k w/no air box mods. Plenty of air.
I'll post the pics when I get them.
Air box: no reason to make it so more air flows, you've not done anything to require more flow. besides, my motors can turn 12k w/no air box mods. Plenty of air.
I'll post the pics when I get them.